Replacing my broken radiator...

[cornponious]

I've begun the process of replacing this thing. However, as is with all repair jobs, one issue begets another. So, I figured as long as I'm replacing the radiator, might as well (as many suggested) replace all coolant hoses. And as long as I'm replacing those, might as well replace all o-rings related to coolant delivery. And of course might as well replace the thermostat and o-ring.

But to remove the coolant pipe on the rear of the engine, I have to remove the carbs. When I did that, I found them to be clean on the outside, but quite filthy inside. So, might as well clean and overhaul them. But I'm no carburetor whisperer. So, I'm sending them off Friday to Steve in sunny Florida for him to work his magic on them.

Upon removing the fuel tank, I found the petcock valve to be seeping fluid. So, that will also be replaced.

Once the carbs were out, I examined the air box. It was incredibly filthy. So I guess I will clean it out. Which brings me to a few questions for the group.

1. In one of the photos, you can clearly see a small box that would sit underneath the air box. What is this box? Do I need to open it and clean it out? What's inside it?
2. I've always wondered why there is a need to coat the air filter in oil. I don't do that with my car filter.
3. After removing the fuel tank, I have found there is a hairline crack in the right side, middle bottom. It is seeping gunk that is running down to where the underside of the fuel level float attaches. What is the best thing to use to seal this?
4. What are the odds I will get everything put back together perfectly?

 

[brooke.benfield]

1. That's kawasaki's idea of a crankcase ventilation system. The box separates out oil from the blow-by gasses before they go into the airbox to get mixed with incoming fresh air. I doubt you have any problems inside it but I remember opening it up on my 86 because I was curious.

2. Most car filters are paper and often have a long passage between the filter element and the outside air. The C10 stock filter has a foam layer on the inside and I don't know what the outer furry layer is made from. I'd guess that some oil on the furry layer helps keep grit from getting up into the engine.

3. Perhaps something like JB Weld? More knowledgeable folk should weigh in on this. You might consider drilling a very small hole at the terminus of the crack to prevent it getting longer post repair.

4. Ha! You'll do fine.

 

[bowtie39]

Remember to attach the small 90* hose between air box and that vent outlet when going back together.

 

[rev ryder]

Sealing a tank leak is like asking folks what oil to use. LOL IMHO, I would drain and wash out the tank, then weld or braze the crack to stop it from getting worse. "Good" tanks are becoming increasingly rare so saving the current one (barring other major problems with it) would be most cost effective and worth it. A good tank sealer (like POR) alone would likely handle the leak as well and would be a worthwhile addition to any welding or other external patch. While some folks really talk poorly about KREEM as a tank sealer, I used it on my wife's 82 Honda Magna tank in 2005 and it still holds fuel despite the tank leaking like a sieve due to rust before sealing. That's 17 years so far and counting. It might be an option as well if others don't talk you out of it.

 

[connie_rider]

1 reason for the dirty (interior?) of the airbox could be that too much oil is being added during an oil change.
ie; Excess oil can be blowing into the airbox thru the Crankcase Ventilation system.
Do not overfill!

The oil that you should use on the "foam" filter is a sticky or thick oil, and use only a tiny amount.
The sticky Oil catches small particles of dirt and helps filter the air on a foam filter.

On the gas tank, I suspect that you have corrosion inside the tank that is starting to break thru.
If so, the crack is on the lower section of the tank at the rear. (??)

Rev is right (Please don't tell him I sed that} the best way to repair the tank is with an internal sealer. POR -15 worked well for me.
But, (as you're not sure what other problems the new bike might have) you can seal the area with JB Weld or other epoxy temporarily.
Use an Epoxy that sez it's gasoline resistant and clean it well before application.

Ride safe, Ted

PS: While you have the carbs off, check the front/bottom edge of the Air box for a crack at the seam. If cracked repair before carb installation.

 

[cornponious]

1 reason for the dirty (interior?) of the airbox could be that too much oil is being added during an oil change.
ie; Excess oil can be blowing into the airbox thru the Crankcase Ventilation system.
Do not overfill!

The oil that you should use on the "foam" filter is a sticky or thick oil, and use only a tiny amount.
The sticky Oil catches small particles of dirt and helps filter the air on a foam filter.

On the gas tank, I suspect that you have corrosion inside the tank that is starting to break thru.
If so, the crack is on the lower section of the tank at the rear. (??)

Rev is right (Please don't tell him I sed that} the best way to repair the tank is with an internal sealer. POR -15 worked well for me.
But, (as you're not sure what other problems the new bike might have) you can seal the area with JB Weld or other epoxy temporarily.
Use an Epoxy that sez it's gasoline resistant and clean it well before application.

Ride safe, Ted

PS: While you have the carbs off, check the front/bottom edge of the Air box for a crack at the seam. If cracked repair before carb installation.

Thank you for all that information. FYI, I’ve had this bike for nearly ten years. I’ve kept it looking new on the outside, and have always done regular oil and coolant changes, and valve adjustments. However, a deep maintenance job has not been done, and now it’s showing. But I’m doing it now.