• Can't post after logging to the forum for the first time... Try Again - If you can't post in the forum, sign out of both the membership site and the forum and log in again. Make sure your COG membership is active and your browser allow cookies. If you still can't post, contact the COG IT guy at IT@Concours.org.
  • IF YOU GET 404 ERROR: This may be due to using a link in a post from prior to the web migration. Content was brought over from the old forum as is, but the links may be in error. If the link contains "cog-online.org" it is an old link and will not work.

Stator output/available wattage

x01660

On a Connie in a neighborhood near you
Member
I just upgraded my headlight bulb to a Beamtech LED, and got 2 Nilight brand LED aux lights that I have installed. Also have ordered LED bulbs for my instrument cluster.

My question is: how much wattage does the stator put out? Or maybe, what are the brightest aux lights I can put on the bike without overwhelming the stator? I don't intend on running heated gear, and I plan on swapping all incandescent bulbs with LEDs (including the taillight and turn signals).

I'm looking for something SUPER bright, and with long throw. Don't really care about "legality", as I'll be using them on remote roads with no one around.

So what lights would work best? I've seen someone on here using Hella FF200 lights ,but I can't find them. Budget isn't an issue (as long as I'm not spending $500+ a light, lol).

And to that end, are there any high output stator upgrades for our bikes?

Thanks!

-x01660
 
These bikes have alternators. A ZZR1200 one will work with a little modification. There's a thread in the classified section that will help.
 
Ok, so by the quick calculations, I'd be able to save about 115 watts by swapping the cluster and indicator/stop light bulbs with LEDs. Given an estimated 54 watts of "free power" at a low RPM (assuming 300 W from the other post), that leaves me with 169.2 watts that get "freed up" Which means I could safely run two 60 or 70 watt lights....

That look right to you?

Which means I could get something like this, right?

 
This info from way back might help. I believe these numbers are at peak output, not at idle.

System Ratings 28.6 Amps 14 volts 400.4 watts

Stock
Headlamp ( 55/60 low beam) 55 watts
Instrument lamps (5 x 3.4w) 17 watts
Running lamps (2 x 8w) 16 watts
Tail lamps (2 x 8w) 16 watts
License plate lamp (1 x 8w) 8 watts
Ignition/misc 21 watts

Stock Total 133 watts

Stop lamps (2 x 27w) 54 watts
Cooling fan (4A x 12V = 48w) 48 watts
Turn signals,(2 x 23w + 3.4w) 49.4watts
Neutral lamp 3.4 watts
High beam (5w + 3.4w) 8.4 watts

Worst case loading 296.2 watts
 
This info from way back might help. I believe these numbers are at peak output, not at idle.

System Ratings 28.6 Amps 14 volts 400.4 watts

Stock
Headlamp ( 55/60 low beam) 55 watts
Instrument lamps (5 x 3.4w) 17 watts
Running lamps (2 x 8w) 16 watts
Tail lamps (2 x 8w) 16 watts
License plate lamp (1 x 8w) 8 watts
Ignition/misc 21 watts

Stock Total 133 watts

Stop lamps (2 x 27w) 54 watts
Cooling fan (4A x 12V = 48w) 48 watts
Turn signals,(2 x 23w + 3.4w) 49.4watts
Neutral lamp 3.4 watts
High beam (5w + 3.4w) 8.4 watts

Worst case loading 296.2 watts

Yeah, I found that post here:


And the OP was saying that he estimates 300 or 350w at idle, leaving about 54w "free" at idle, with everything on.

I found these, and I think I'll get them after I swap out all my bulbs. These look promising:

 
I am not far from you and have a set of Hellla HID lights mounted on a rail for a C-10. They came from the PO when I got my 05. They had been removed from the bike and came as extra parts. I never installed them because the bike also had an HID headlight. This bike has been somewhat of a wiring nightmare as the PO had added and removed many items.

I have thought of putting them up for sale but no clue what they are worth. The HID is not available new anymore. Start a conversation with me for more information.


20230828_100647.jpg20230828_100826.jpg new anymore.20190427_152353.jpg
 
I am not far from you and have a set of Hellla HID lights mounted on a rail for a C-10. They came from the PO when I got my 05. They had been removed from the bike and came as extra parts. I never installed them because the bike also had an HID headlight. This bike has been somewhat of a wiring nightmare as the PO had added and removed many items.

I have thought of putting them up for sale but no clue what they are worth. The HID is not available new anymore. Start a conversation with me for more information.


View attachment 36769View attachment 36770 new anymore.View attachment 36771

To be honest, I'm more interested in the mounting bracket than the lights, lol!

Yes, let's chat. I'll DM you.

Thanks!
 
I am not far from you and have a set of Hellla HID lights mounted on a rail for a C-10. They came from the PO when I got my 05. They had been removed from the bike and came as extra parts. I never installed them because the bike also had an HID headlight. This bike has been somewhat of a wiring nightmare as the PO had added and removed many items.

I have thought of putting them up for sale but no clue what they are worth. The HID is not available new anymore. Start a conversation with me for more information.


View attachment 36769View attachment 36770 new anymore.View attachment 36771

Love the KMW sticker 👍👍👍👍
 
Not an electrician. Hoping someone can better explain my below;

I'm not sure where you intend to get your power for the driving lights?
Whatever you do, do not draw power for them thru the headlight switch.

Murph used to sale a relay system that powered the headlights etc from the battery.
It reduced the load on the headlight switch and allowed maximum amps to the headlight.
The bikes headlight switch was used only to switch the relay, and the relay carried the load.
The relay and heavier wiring allowed more power to the headlight/auxiliary lights.

Unfortunately Murph no longer carries the kit.
Trying to find a relay kit to show you.

Can some of you electrical Guru's help?

Ride safe, Ted
 
Last edited:
Not an electrician. Hoping someone can better explain my below;

I'm not sure where you intend to get your power for the driving lights?
Whatever you do, do not draw power for them thru the headlight switch.

Murph used to sale a relay system that powered the headlights etc from the battery.
It reduced the load on the headlight switch and allowed maximum amps to the headlight.
The bikes headlight switch was used only to switch the relay, and the relay carried the load.
The relay and heavier wiring allowed more power to the headlight/auxiliary lights.

Unfortunately Murph no longer carries the kit.
Trying to find a relay kit to show you.

Can some of you electrical Guru's help?

Ride safe, Ted

The lights that I currently have have a relay/fuse/switch cable that came with them. So I just wired it to battery directly, and connected the lights, and have the switch up near my dash (need to clean it up).


With the LED lights I'd get, I'd just swap out the existing lights with the upgraded ones. That should work.... right?

-x01660
 
That should work fine.
With the removal of the std bulb and the installation of LED's (including the driving lights) you should be fine.
Don't feel that you'll need to change to the ZZR alternator.

On my first C-10; I used Murphs harness, but (Instead of adding driving lights) I added a diode and switch to the Auxiliary lighting wire and tied that to the original high beam wire.

The modification allowed me to have Low Beam/High Beam/ or both High and Low beam.
Hi and Lo together really lighted things up!
(but used a lot of power / an LED Headlight would have been ideal)

Ride safe, Ted
 
Hella's term for HID is "Xenon" - available from several firms on the net. Try Rallylights.com - education as well as sales.

The term really bright and long range are not the same. HID's are bright and use less current than incandescent, but are long range because they're in a reflector housing. The old Hella FF-200 with H-3 bulbs were the best in my opinion, and equal to PIAA 910's' for alot less $$. I've ridden behind HID's in LD rallys. The FF-200's are just as good. I've also installed FF-200 Xenons on an IBR rider's Concours. Very bright and lon range for sure. LED's will never be "long range" because they lack the reflector of a bulb unit. No question they are bright, but just yield a big "splotch" of light that isn't focused. You can see this in cars on the back road
On the question of the Connies alternator - it can feed alot of watts - if you keep track of them with a $15, waterproof, volt meter/gauge. I ran 60 watt (very bright) Hella headlight bulb, 110 watts of Hella FF-200's, heated vest, grips and electric socks using a pulse-width controller for well over 100K miles with no issues.
Hope this helps. If not - my number is in the book. Thanks for thc bandwidth.

Larry Buck
 
Not an electrician. Hoping someone can better explain my below;

I'm not sure where you intend to get your power for the driving lights?
Whatever you do, do not draw power for them thru the headlight switch.

Murph used to sale a relay system that powered the headlights etc from the battery.
It reduced the load on the headlight switch and allowed maximum amps to the headlight.
The bikes headlight switch was used only to switch the relay, and the relay carried the load.
The relay and heavier wiring allowed more power to the headlight/auxiliary lights.

Unfortunately Murph no longer carries the kit.
Trying to find a relay kit to show you.

Can some of you electrical Guru's help?

Ride safe, Ted

Photo of the kit Murph sold. Nice setup attached with plastic clamps one above the ground screw and the other at the bottom. The relay is on the back and the trigger wire bullet spliced into the rear brake switch wiring. This one is on my 99. I have a cheep Amazon one with an Auto store relay on the 05. It came with the bike.
20180720_123826.jpg
 
Top