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These are the Voyages....

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"The individual has always had to struggle to keep from being overwhelmed by the tribe. If you try it, you be be lonely often, and sometimes frightened; but no price is to high for the privilege of owning yourself."

~F. Nietzsche
 
Got a question, but don't wanna start a new thread.

Do y'all think a C10 would fit in the back of a Chevy Express van?

I'm looking at vehicles I may potentially get, and I'm REALLY liking the 04-13 1500 Express vans with the 5.3. Mostly because they come with AWD in those years.

So, if I pull the rear seats, think it'll fit, heightwise? I may need to pull the windshield...

1765554386370.png

Thoughts?

-Z
 
A tape measure will tell the tale but think you would have to remove or modify the windshield.
First thought is, due to your and the bikes size, it won't be any fun getting the bike in there.
I think a trailer might be an option.

** I know you're in an apartment so owning/storing a trailer could be an issue.
With that in mind {and reading your other post about towing a Bike with a Bike}
One of the Harbor Freight trailers could serve both projects and can be "folded" for storage.
ie; (requires minimal storage area)

Also: A small trailer is relatively inexpensive to rent and almost any vehicle would tow them.

Ride safe, Ted

1765566266782.png
 
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Got a question, but don't wanna start a new thread.

Do y'all think a C10 would fit in the back of a Chevy Express van?

I'm looking at vehicles I may potentially get, and I'm REALLY liking the 04-13 1500 Express vans with the 5.3. Mostly because they come with AWD in those years.

So, if I pull the rear seats, think it'll fit, heightwise? I may need to pull the windshield...

View attachment 42831

Thoughts?

-Z
Your Flowers By Irene Chevy Express van has a relatively low cargo interior height that will not accommodate a windshield-on stuffing of an ZG1000. Windshield off and I think there would be 4 - 5 inches clearance

Length would require the bench seat to be removed.

For other more suited van options: see the MB - Sprinter, Ford - Transit, and Ram ProMaster.

All of these give you much more height than the Chevy Express and more than enough height to stand up inside. Still not a breeze to just ride in carelessly but the C-10 would technically fit with the windshield on.

Wayne, Carol & Blue
 
So this is the issue. And I'm probably gonna get ROASTED for this, but oh well.

What I actually want to get is a minivan. Specifically a Toyota Sienna.

Maryann won't be caught DEAD driving a minivan.

And I want a vehicle that's AWD and enclosed, and can haul a bunch of stuff. So not a pickup truck.

So I settled on a 1500 Express with AWD. Can set it up to do camping, etc.

What I'm trying to avoid is having a trailer (by getting the full size van). So maybe I do get a Sprinter van and pull the rear row of seats out.

I don't drive regularly, so my vehicle is gonna be a utility. She'll have the fancy city car.

So yeah... Maybe I find an old ProMaster that was set up for municipal transportation, and rip out the rear few rows of seats to accommodate the bike.

Hmmmmm.....

-Z
 
Minivans get unfairly roasted. They're more practical than the average 4-door pickup with dinky bed that's on the road.

I have a 4x8 Harbor Freight trailer that I pull behind my Mazda3. I've always liked small, sporty cars, so this setup suits me well as the 90% of the time it's a car, and the 10% of the time I need to haul something, I can haul as much as a 1/2 ton pickup. It's even more practical in a lot of ways, as the deck is just 18" off the ground instead of 3ft, it's got removable sides, can haul 4x8 sheet goods inside the 4 sides, and I don't have to worry about being careful scratching it or breaking a back window. It's how I've hauled my motorcycles, as well as up to 2,000lbs loads of dirt, gravel, and concrete.

For a van to haul a motorcycle, though, I'd definitely be with Ted on finding something with a taller cargo area. The classic American vans just suck in that respect. A high-roof sprinter would be a great choice, and you'd like it for your other needs such as camping, as you could actually stand up. Your back will thank you!

I would recommend installing some tiedown points. I've seen people who installed the rail type systems for hauling bikes in the tall vans like that, which works really well for accommodating different bikes.
 
Minivans get unfairly roasted. They're more practical than the average 4-door pickup with dinky bed that's on the road.

The AWD Sienna hybrid gets 36 MPG combined. 36/36. Can haul 8 people, easy to get in and out of, looks pretty sleek, and will blend in and not attract attention.

Its the perfect vehicle.

Except the wife won't drive it, lol.

All good. A Sprinter or Transit with a high roof would be better anyways. Can have it set up for camping and hauling bikes. Like I said, I don't really drive at all, so when I do, I won't be too concerned about fuel efficiency, looks, etc.

And journeymen use them, so they must be at least somewhat reliable....

-Z
 
IMHO a Sprinter, Ford Transit, or Ram ProMaster will be better to put a bike in. Jason recently got one, ask him about it
 
When my son & family were returning from Kenya, they needed a vehicle for her. When we discussed a minivan, her response was nope, nope, nope (they had 3 & 5 year old girls then). She ended up with a really nice Sequoia.
I understand Maryann's position.
Zach, cutting down the C10 windshield might solve the issue. I did that to mine too cut down ei d buffeting and it worked well, and looked nice.
 
When my son & family were returning from Kenya, they needed a vehicle for her. When we discussed a minivan, her response was nope, nope, nope (they had 3 & 5 year old girls then). She ended up with a really nice Sequoia.
I understand Maryann's position.
Zach, cutting down the C10 windshield might solve the issue. I did that to mine too cut down ei d buffeting and it worked well, and looked nice.

Yeah. I'm thinking I should just get a Transit 350 with a tall roof. Will give me PLENTY of space to haul Nyx, and I might be able to make a mini workshop in there. So I have a place to put her and work when the work will take more than a day, or require clean conditions (like valve adjustments).

Like I said, I don't really drive at all, so this vehicle will be the utility. Plus, I think I can get those in AWD.

I think a Transit is gonna be the way to go!

-Z
 
My wife went the other way. No mini van, get me a full sized 3/4 ton Chevy van.

Z just for reference. I had to remove the mirrors and turn the handle bars back on from my KZ 550 to get it to fit inside. The backrest and shield had to come off also.

03 1982 kz550.jpgDP'S 001.jpg
 
My wife went the other way. No mini van, get me a full sized 3/4 ton Chevy van.

Z just for reference. I had to remove the mirrors and turn the handle bars back on from my KZ 550 to get it to fit inside. The backrest and shield had to come off also.

View attachment 42833View attachment 42834

Ok, yeah. I DEFINITELY need a Transit van, then.

Thanks for sharing this. And I like the van, the KZ, AND the future road racer!!

😎

-Z
 
Ramping it in and out is another consideration. Trying to throttle it up while standing on the ground and keeping the front wheel in the track is tough. To gain 2.5-3 feet (the height of the van floor the ramp would need to be long enough to prevent high-centering the middle of the bike). Even for a trailer I eventually opted for a tri-fold ramp that I could ride the bike up and onto with. By riding the bike up I still had my feet to keep the bike up. More motorcycles are damaged during track day events loading and unloading rather than crashes and mishaps on the track.
 
Ramping it in and out is another consideration. Trying to throttle it up while standing on the ground and keeping the front wheel in the track is tough. To gain 2.5-3 feet (the height of the van floor the ramp would need to be long enough to prevent high-centering the middle of the bike). Even for a trailer I eventually opted for a tri-fold ramp that I could ride the bike up and onto with. By riding the bike up I still had my feet to keep the bike up. More motorcycles are damaged during track day events loading and unloading rather than crashes and mishaps on the track.


Yeah, that's another reason I'm thinking of getting the Transit van. I can get a long triple width ramp, and with the low load height of a Transit, it should be no worse than going up a slight incline.

So like this, but with longer ramps:

1765643065292.png


Or, more realistically, like this, but with full width and longer ramps (this is a 250, vs the Connect above):

1765643561963.png


-Z
 
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Ok, yeah. I DEFINITELY need a Transit van, then.

Thanks for sharing this. And I like the van, the KZ, AND the future road racer!!
That future road racer is now 40 years old. The bike and van are long gone.

We now have a Nissan Frontier pickup and I mounted a 2500 lb ATV winch to the front tie down rail. I have used it to load and unload a replacement GPZ 550 into the bed. The cable is long enough that I can use it to load the C-10 onto a harbor freight trailer. I don't trust the pickup gate with the weight of the C-10. Soft ties to the triple tree, hold the bike upright and push the button on the winch remote. As it goes up I move to the back until I get the rear tire up and can put the side stand down. It goes at a much more controlled pace, both up and down. I power the winch from a portable power pack.
 
The Concours or the scooters behind it? :p We have scooters everywhere downtown. They keep the ER busy.
 
Man.... as I've mentioned before, I think I have an addiction to lumens.....

I updated my lights again; moved my previous bright lights up top, and mounted some SERIOUSLY bright lights down below:

1774368618627.png


And let me tell you hwat, son! Them lights are BRIGHT:

1774368650571.png


Mind you, that image is with the camera adjusting contrast and what not. The image below shows what I actually see:

1774368973064.png

😎

-Z
 
Very nice! I was back reading your older posts this winter, which inspired me to upgrade my aux lighting too. Don't have it finished yet, but am excited to try it out.
 
Very nice! I was back reading your older posts this winter, which inspired me to upgrade my aux lighting too. Don't have it finished yet, but am excited to try it out.

Seth!!!

I wanna see what you've hooked up! Share pics!

😁

-Z
 
Man.... as I've mentioned before, I think I have an addiction to lumens.....

I updated my lights again; moved my previous bright lights up top, and mounted some SERIOUSLY bright lights down below:

View attachment 43256


And let me tell you hwat, son! Them lights are BRIGHT:

View attachment 43257


Mind you, that image is with the camera adjusting contrast and what not. The image below shows what I actually see:

View attachment 43258

😎

-Z
Inquiring minds would like a link to the lights that you have purchased for that bike past and present. Thank you for your attention to this matter. 😂
 
Inquiring minds would like a link to the lights that you have purchased for that bike past and present. Thank you for your attention to this matter. 😂

These are the lights that are mounted to the fairing:


And these are the lights mounted to the bar down below:


Definitely overkill, but I ride in remote places at night. And you can only ride as fast as you can see...

😈

-Z
 
No such thing as overkill when it comes to lights, as long as they're done right and aimed properly- I have no doubt yours are properly aimed.
Zach, are the dual-beam lights a true fog light pattern? With a good, sharp, cutoff at the top?
 
ABSOLUTELY shameless plug:


😁

-Z
 
The ones mounted high by the mirror mounts will get u a visit with the local traffic officer in many states if they're on in traffic. I hope your only using them for rural roads. Just a word to the wise...
Pat, seems quite a few mount them under the mirrors, is that OK?
Just curious as I'd never heard that before.
 
The ones mounted high by the mirror mounts will get u a visit with the local traffic officer in many states if they're on in traffic. I hope your only using them for rural roads. Just a word to the wise...

No law on the books around here at all about that. Just that they have to be under a certain height, which they are (and lower than truck headlights that are all over the place). I ride through VA, MD, DE, and DC with those lights. And I run the top ones during the day for visibility. Pass cops all the time. Pull up behind cops, then next to them. Nothing.

I've ridden to Wayne's in CT and back. So PA, NJ, NY, CT. Same thing. Never been bugged at all.

🫠

-Z
 
First was the south entrance to the Ocean City Boardwalk.
I was looking at that thinking it looked familiar. I don't know how but I was maybe 10yo the last time I was in Ocean City with my parents. I have very fond and numerous memories from those family trips. Could that boardwalk sign be the same 55+ years later?
 
Quick question:

Is the ZZ-R1200 alternator the only one with more capacity that will fit a C10?

Is there another option with more amps?

And with the ZZR alternator, is it plug and play? Or does it need to be modified to fit?

AND, does anyone have one they wanna part with?

😎

-Z
 
Found this; Check out the attachment and then see Guy's Schematic.
Short but has the basic info you need.
Mercer, Bob, or Guy should be able to provide more info.

Ride safe, Ted


Lot's more info available on the Forum.

 
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Quick question:

Is the ZZ-R1200 alternator the only one with more capacity that will fit a C10?

Is there another option with more amps?

And with the ZZR alternator, is it plug and play? Or does it need to be modified to fit?

AND, does anyone have one they wanna part with?

😎

-Z
Have you replaced your various light bulbs with LED? I calculated that it freed up about 60 watts from stock. That's a third of the way to the 200-watt boost of the ZZR alternator

This is just the baseload that's constant, since the other lights (turn signal, brake, etc) are intermittent enough you don't need to provide full power for them, but I put LEDs in everything.

Screenshot 2026-06-01 100647.jpg
 
Have you replaced your various light bulbs with LED? I calculated that it freed up about 60 watts from stock. That's a third of the way to the 200-watt boost of the ZZR alternator

This is just the baseload that's constant, since the other lights (turn signal, brake, etc) are intermittent enough you don't need to provide full power for them, but I put LEDs in everything.

View attachment 43812

I did. LED headlight, all instrument cluster bulbs, tail light, and 2 turn signal bulbs.

However, my top lights are 96W and my lower lights are 174W.....

😶

-Z
 
I did. LED headlight, all instrument cluster bulbs, tail light, and 2 turn signal bulbs.

However, my top lights are 96W and my lower lights are 174W.....

😶

-Z
You might start by installing a voltage meter. As long as you are still able to hold above charging voltage (mid-13s), you are still OK.

My my calcs, the stock alternator puts out 400 watts (at moderate RPM), and with LED bulbs, baseload draw (including ignition), should be around 75watts, which means you've got ~300 watts to spare. If your added lights are 96+174 = 270watts, you should just be OK.

Now, if you are at lower RPM a lot, you may have issues, but that's where a volt gauge can help you see issues.

Did you install an aux power port of some kind? You could get a volt gauge that plugs in, or a cheap one that wires into your accessory circuit, etc.
 
You might start by installing a voltage meter. As long as you are still able to hold above charging voltage (mid-13s), you are still OK.

My my calcs, the stock alternator puts out 400 watts (at moderate RPM), and with LED bulbs, baseload draw (including ignition), should be around 75watts, which means you've got ~300 watts to spare. If your added lights are 96+174 = 270watts, you should just be OK.

Now, if you are at lower RPM a lot, you may have issues, but that's where a volt gauge can help you see issues.

Did you install an aux power port of some kind? You could get a volt gauge that plugs in, or a cheap one that wires into your accessory circuit, etc.

I have a USB charger that has a voltmeter on it.

With all the lights on and the radiator switched off, I'll sit around 13.8, and slowly drop to about 13.6 over the course of maybe 20-30 minutes. If I stop and keep the lights on, voltage dips down around 11.4-11.6.

I don't generally run the bottom lights unless I'm out in the sticks.

With the top lights and the rad fan on (I always run the tops during the day). I will idle around 13.8 and going down the road I'll be at 14.2

-Z
 
I have a USB charger that has a voltmeter on it.

With all the lights on and the radiator switched off, I'll sit around 13.8, and slowly drop to about 13.6 over the course of maybe 20-30 minutes. If I stop and keep the lights on, voltage dips down around 11.4-11.6.

I don't generally run the bottom lights unless I'm out in the sticks.

With the top lights and the rad fan on (I always run the tops during the day). I will idle around 13.8 and going down the road I'll be at 14.2

-Z
You're definitely fine in the latter case. That's about what mine runs (it's got an old-timey large-print edition LED volt gauge from the original owner).

If you're sitting at over 13.5 volts with everything, that should be keeping it charged. If it's getting below 12.6-12.9 volts for very long, I would consider it discharging.
 
Seth, I think at 12.6V+ tue battery is battery is close to 100% SOC, and if the system is there, altwrm6is keeping up.
Zach, I don't know this for a fact, but the lowering voltage after you've been running for a while may be the regulator lowering set-point per its voltage-temperature comoensation curve. Most automotive alternators reduce the volage set-point as temperature increases to prevent overcharging the battery. The C10 has a car-type Nippondenso alternator (best quality made for decades) and the lowering voltage may he normal.
 
Seth, I think at 12.6V+ tue battery is battery is close to 100% SOC, and if the system is there, altwrm6is keeping up.
Zach, I don't know this for a fact, but the lowering voltage after you've been running for a while may be the regulator lowering set-point per its voltage-temperature comoensation curve. Most automotive alternators reduce the volage set-point as temperature increases to prevent overcharging the battery. The C10 has a car-type Nippondenso alternator (best quality made for decades) and the lowering voltage may he normal.
Very good points!
 
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