Hey, you take care of yourself...this crap can wait 'til next week or later.
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Turnbuckles for Trailering; Is anybody interested?
- Thread starter connie_rider
- Start date
Mt spools came today from t rex. Stupid question, in the packhing for the front spools are 2 4 inches bars ...any idea what they are for..?
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Ted where are you? Figure you would have chimed in by now.
see page 2 of this thread
Asked :
& answered (sorta kinda):
Ok... and i checked my spools, they fit fine no issues. The stepped one fits on my right/ brake lever side...
Possibly a dumb question, but why not use a short length of chain and a threaded link instead of bar extensions? Anyone try that? Chain binders work okay on loads when tight.
The turnbuckles we use will extend to about 16 inches so no extensions of any kind are needed. Don't overthink it.
Just saw this.
I was at the Ranch this weekend. {repairing a roof on the barn and hunting}
Marty, your spool is machined wrong.
Return it and have them send you another spool.
NOTE: The base of both of my front spools are "identical/interchangeable" and will fit from either side.
I can't speak for T-Rex, {not sure why they did the step} but the OD major should be the same on both spools.
The OD is .860"/.865" on all of mine.
As Jim said, Ya'll are overthinking the turnbuckles.
{We've used open hooks for years, with NO problems}.
The turnbuckles that Jim posted are ideal..
The turnbuckle extensions/hooks/loops/chain/etc are only needed at the trailer attachment point.
{to make the Turnbuckles attach to your trailers}
A simple "open hook" works perfectly on the spools.
NOTE: Prior to discovering how well open hooks worked, I tried the T-Rex hooks/loops/etc/etc etc to attach to my spools.
"All are a waste of time".
Do the KISS method.
ie; "Keep It Simple, Stupid"
Ride safe, Ted
I was at the Ranch this weekend. {repairing a roof on the barn and hunting}
Marty, your spool is machined wrong.
Return it and have them send you another spool.
NOTE: The base of both of my front spools are "identical/interchangeable" and will fit from either side.
I can't speak for T-Rex, {not sure why they did the step} but the OD major should be the same on both spools.
The OD is .860"/.865" on all of mine.
As Jim said, Ya'll are overthinking the turnbuckles.
{We've used open hooks for years, with NO problems}.
The turnbuckles that Jim posted are ideal..
The turnbuckle extensions/hooks/loops/chain/etc are only needed at the trailer attachment point.
{to make the Turnbuckles attach to your trailers}
A simple "open hook" works perfectly on the spools.
NOTE: Prior to discovering how well open hooks worked, I tried the T-Rex hooks/loops/etc/etc etc to attach to my spools.
"All are a waste of time".
Do the KISS method.
ie; "Keep It Simple, Stupid"
Ride safe, Ted
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I'm sure that would work, but chain binders (according to my limited research) cost much more than turn buckles. Now, if you already have some on hand then
sure, that would probably work fine
Thanks Ted, I agree. I think I'm going to make my own like you did for the front, and only use the rear T-Rex spools.
Update from Rubin at T-Rex.
I told him I didn't want a replacement spool (since I now plan on making my own) but that I wanted him to check on the specs for the sizes of the steps with the design team's drawings. Rubin informed me that the larger step is supposed to be 22mm (0.866142 inches) and that the smaller step is supposed to be 20mm (0.787402 inch). So mine is clearly out of any reasonable tolerance on the larger diameter only (at .898 inch) , which explains why it doesn't fit in flush. I shouldn't have a problem fixing that, but others may not have the ability to fix it so check to see if yours fit when they arrive. I have a small lathe, but I think if anyone else has this problem, one could just find a way to spin it in a drill press or portable drill and apply a file to it to get the diameter smaller. Concentricity isn't that important in this application for a hold down, but the diameter is.
I believe we can go back to bent hooks vs closed loops debate now
as I've diverted things enough. (I miss the old pot stirring emoticon.)
I told him I didn't want a replacement spool (since I now plan on making my own) but that I wanted him to check on the specs for the sizes of the steps with the design team's drawings. Rubin informed me that the larger step is supposed to be 22mm (0.866142 inches) and that the smaller step is supposed to be 20mm (0.787402 inch). So mine is clearly out of any reasonable tolerance on the larger diameter only (at .898 inch) , which explains why it doesn't fit in flush. I shouldn't have a problem fixing that, but others may not have the ability to fix it so check to see if yours fit when they arrive. I have a small lathe, but I think if anyone else has this problem, one could just find a way to spin it in a drill press or portable drill and apply a file to it to get the diameter smaller. Concentricity isn't that important in this application for a hold down, but the diameter is.
I believe we can go back to bent hooks vs closed loops debate now
as I've diverted things enough. (I miss the old pot stirring emoticon.)
My turnbuckles are actually open on both ends. That way I can unhook them from the trailer floor mounts when not in use.
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Maybe some progress. I rented a uhaul trailer to take my C14 in for service and was having a hard time with getting the strap angles right up front because of the fairing and fender. Then, I realized the front floor loops were perfectly placed for Ted’s spools which were there in the garage.
I’ve been getting the pieces I need but haven’t installed them in the TH yet.
I used a threaded connector loop to bridge between the floor loop and the 3/8” turnbuckles. Perfect fit. I pried the top jaw of the turnbuckles open just a bit and tightened them down using the spools at the top and threaded link at the bottom. I connected a bungee between the two to be sure they don’t vibrate looses. Lots of stops for a few miles while testing.
The back loops are too far to use so I have straps back there. Thanks Ted & Jim. I’ll let you know how it goes.
I’ve been getting the pieces I need but haven’t installed them in the TH yet.
I used a threaded connector loop to bridge between the floor loop and the 3/8” turnbuckles. Perfect fit. I pried the top jaw of the turnbuckles open just a bit and tightened them down using the spools at the top and threaded link at the bottom. I connected a bungee between the two to be sure they don’t vibrate looses. Lots of stops for a few miles while testing.
The back loops are too far to use so I have straps back there. Thanks Ted & Jim. I’ll let you know how it goes.
Ron / Progress,,, Yahooo...!!!
Sorry to hear that news Zarticus. Hope you get better soon.
Ride safe, Ted
Sorry to hear that news Zarticus. Hope you get better soon.
Ride safe, Ted
Update: Success!! 65 mile trip made with no problems. Front spools & rear end strapped. I’ll only say this once: “Ted is smart!”
Now I’ve got to finish figuring out my toy hauler. I think I’ll need a better chock because the $29 Harbor Freight version does not hold the bike upright well enough. It’s been good for 7 years and three cross country trips so I can’t complain about it.
Thanks guys.
Now I’ve got to finish figuring out my toy hauler. I think I’ll need a better chock because the $29 Harbor Freight version does not hold the bike upright well enough. It’s been good for 7 years and three cross country trips so I can’t complain about it.
Thanks guys.
I’ll only say this once: “Ted is smart!”
Well, once is enough, Ted's Helmet will be too small now for at least a month.
Ya'll hang on a minute.
My swollen head makes it hard to get my helmet off..
Ron, now that you've used the turnbuckles, it will be easier to work out the Toy-hauler installation.
Secret Trick; On your Harbor Freight Chock; I discovered a trick.
I don't normally tell folks but (since you talked nice about me) I'll tell you.
I removed the bolt that the rocker pivots on, and moved the Rocker to a better {more forward} location.
To find the ideal position, I used an old tire, placed it in the Chock, and moved the {unbolted} rocker forward until the tire is slightly suspended.
NOTE; Keep the rocker location as low as possible. (to ease loading}
I then drilled a new hole at the new rocker position and re-installed the bolt.
,,,{If you have the location exactly right, the weight of the bike will push the tire down until the tire barely touches the floor}
After the mod; {Because the bike is slightly suspended} the rocker will clamp the tire tighter and the bike will be more secure.
(shhhhh; Don't tell Marty I sed this)
Ride safe, Ted
My swollen head makes it hard to get my helmet off..
Ron, now that you've used the turnbuckles, it will be easier to work out the Toy-hauler installation.
Secret Trick; On your Harbor Freight Chock; I discovered a trick.
I don't normally tell folks but (since you talked nice about me) I'll tell you.
I removed the bolt that the rocker pivots on, and moved the Rocker to a better {more forward} location.
To find the ideal position, I used an old tire, placed it in the Chock, and moved the {unbolted} rocker forward until the tire is slightly suspended.
NOTE; Keep the rocker location as low as possible. (to ease loading}
I then drilled a new hole at the new rocker position and re-installed the bolt.
,,,{If you have the location exactly right, the weight of the bike will push the tire down until the tire barely touches the floor}
After the mod; {Because the bike is slightly suspended} the rocker will clamp the tire tighter and the bike will be more secure.
(shhhhh; Don't tell Marty I sed this)
Ride safe, Ted
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Ya'll hang on a minute.
My swollen head makes it hard to get my helmet off..
Ron, now that you've used the turnbuckles, it will be easier to work out the Toy-hauler installation.
Secret Trick; On your Harbor Freight Chock; I discovered a trick.
I don't normally tell folks but (since you talked nice about me) I'll tell you.
I removed the bolt that the rocker pivots on, and moved the Rocker to a better {more forward} location.
To find the ideal position, I used an old tire, placed it in the Chock, and moved the {unbolted} rocker forward until the tire is slightly suspended.
NOTE; Keep the rocker location as low as possible. (to ease loading}
I then drilled a new hole at the new rocker position and re-installed the bolt.
,,,{If you have the location exactly right, the weight of the bike will push the tire down until the tire barely touches the floor}
After the mod; {Because the bike is slightly suspended} the rocker will clamp the tire tighter and the bike will be more secure.
(shhhhh; Don't tell Marty I sed this)
Ride safe, Ted
My silence is assured!!! I'll take a look. I've been relatively satisfied with the HF chock as it came from the store, for lots of miles. The tire does sit (slightly)against the bottom as it now rides and it's relatively easy to get the bike out but I can see "raising it" a fraction might make it push down. I'll certainly take a look. Thanks!
Yes, using them will help a great deal. I think I can put the front ones into the plate that spans across underneath the floor. The back ones will be a little more challenging. I've considered a longer version of that T-Rex rod "extension" pictured above. Just get a longer piece of square rod and drill it at both ends. But I'm going to put the bike in the rig and measure first (just don't know when - darn this work stuff.. ). I'll get it done before the Hohenwald social in April I think.
Thanks again.
Progress reports from anyone??
Ride safe, Ted
Ride safe, Ted
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I chucked up my one T-Rex spool that didn't fit and turned it down so it fits. Then I made both of the front spools wider to allow my shackles to slide on without needing to grind the shackles. I've also ordered some stainless bar stock to make a new set of spools for the front Keeping the ones from T-Rex in reserve. I still need to check how the rear spools from T-Rex fit. I'll probably cut the rear spools wider as well so the shackles slip on.
