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Valve Adjustment wire harness issue

sackman

Member
Member
My valve adjustment is in process, but two of the tabs that lock the wire harness to the coils broke. Is this an issue? Is there a work around for the lock tabs that broke?

Or is it ok to just put it back together? Will it stay together?
 
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My valve adjustment is in process, but two of the tabs that lock the wire harness to the coils broke. Is this an issue? Is there a work around for the lock tabs that broke?
I broke one and decided I didnt want yo trust a zip tie. I bought a used harness but it was wrong so I cut off the old plug and wired in the new.
 
My valve adjustment is in process, but two of the tabs that lock the wire harness to the coils broke. Is this an issue? Is there a work around for the lock tabs that broke?

Or is it ok to just put it back together? Will it stay together?
Yikes! Doing a 15k valve check/adjust in a couple weeks. Are the plug tabs super brittle? Mine is an 09 with some age on her frame.
 
You should be able to release the pins from the plastic connector and insert them in a new plastic connector of the same type. Search on the net for motorcycle connectors.
 
This is why I am doing the valve check/adjust with an engineer friend. Maybe I am cynical, but I just do not trust dealer maintenance techs.
A lot of work I do comes from folks that have been mistreated from dealerships - it’s truly a shame actually…. We could probably start a thread here about ‘Dealership Performance Awards’ and vote monthly on the craziest thing seen.

Wayne, Carol & Blue
 
This is why I am doing the valve check/adjust with an engineer friend. Maybe I am cynical, but I just do not trust dealer maintenance techs.
I was a auto/light truck dealer tech for over a decade. I treated everything like it was my own and took the time to do it right. I've seen a lot of hacks out there.
That being said with the help of the forum, SM and Wayne i took my time with my valves. I probably had 20 hrs in it. I think it took me almost 8 hrs just to get the valve cover off lol
 
My valve adjustment is in process, but two of the tabs that lock the wire harness to the coils broke. Is this an issue? Is there a work around for the lock tabs that broke?

Or is it ok to just put it back together? Will it stay together?
I have worried about this when doing valve adjustments. Being gentle and careful goes without saying, however even then sometimes these tabs break.

My plan was to find a way to zip tie or otherwise secure the plug coils together so that they don't rattle apart after the bike is assembled (you will want to feel confident the plugs will not come undone).

The perfect, albeit expensive, solution, is to purchase that wire section of the harness. From Kawasaki it looks to be around $125. It is also possible to purchase it on ebay for less.
 
I was a auto/light truck dealer tech for over a decade. I treated everything like it was my own and took the time to do it right. I've seen a lot of hacks out there.
That being said with the help of the forum, SM and Wayne i took my time with my valves. I probably had 20 hrs in it. I think it took me almost 8 hrs just to get the valve cover off lol
But the point is - you did it!

Wayne
 
Look Here

There's a tool made to release the pins from the connector housing. Then it's just a matter of re-inserting the pins in the new connector housing. Not hard or expensive. HTH
 
You should be able to release the pins from the plastic connector and insert them in a new plastic connector of the same type. Search on the net for motorcycle connectors.

Wow! This place has a lot of great electrical supplies. Thanks for sharing.
If you want to get the tool for removing the pins I can send you a plug. Or if you dont I can still send you a plug with enough wire to solder in to your harness.
 
I'd recommend replacing the connector. If it vibrates loose while you're riding, you'll loose that cylinder, and they are hard to get to. Here's a couple other sites that most likely have them.


 
You should be able to release the pins from the plastic connector and insert them in a new plastic connector of the same type. Search on the net for motorcycle connectors.
 
I'd recommend replacing the connector. If it vibrates loose while you're riding, you'll loose that cylinder, and they are hard to get to. Here's a couple other sites that most likely have them.


Thanks, have one on order.
 
I'd recommend replacing the connector. If it vibrates loose while you're riding, you'll loose that cylinder, and they are hard to get to. Here's a couple other sites that most likely have them.


@Fred H. these are great resources!

Group - As luck would have it I’m turning around a valve check, blowing all the sand from the engine bay (shore stored machine) and out shoots a mouse nest and then I found my first mouse damaged wire that is too close to the connector to easily repair. See photos furthest below.

The connector is still good it’s just the wires are chewed and now oxidizing, breaking, etc.

Can these wires be released, cleaned up (as needed an extension put in to the wire run) and reset into the terminal? If so what is needed, new terminals connectors, any special tools for opening the connector, etc?

Thanks for the help from one’s who have been here before me…

Wayne, Carol & Blue

1E1358A1-B47F-474F-B514-F884A844234A.jpeg792C3E97-A08D-4360-8934-921C4FC8738C.jpeg6F742E25-CFC3-4930-A9CD-0FF406EE4D39.jpeg
 
Looks like the map sensor wires. I'd release the pin, and simply solder and heat shrink the wires back together and then reinstall the pin. It looks like there is enough wire left to do a splice.

If there isn't enough wire, you may find once you get the pin extracted that you can solder tack a new wire directly into the existing pin. Otherwise you'll have to source a new pin and crimp and/or solder to the new pin.
 
Looks like the map sensor wires. I'd release the pin, and simply solder and heat shrink the wires back together and then reinstall the pin. It looks like there is enough wire left to do a splice.

If there isn't enough wire, you may find once you get the pin extracted that you can solder tack a new wire directly into the existing pin. Otherwise you'll have to source a new pin and crimp and/or solder to the new pin.
Thanks Fred I’ll probably try a solder splice first on the one wire with some heat shrink to weather proof.

If that’s a no go I’ll be learning how to release the pins on these connectors and redo, never bad to learn new tasks.

Bank to regularly scheduled program to get shims coming then I’ll deal with this.

Wayne, Carol & Blue
 
OP, how about some photos of what broke to help us better understand how to try to avoid this happening to us. I hate connectors cause they are all different and require different technique to get them apart. maybe some pics will let us see best way to remove this particular connector.
 
OP, how about some photos of what broke to help us better understand how to try to avoid this happening to us. I hate connectors cause they are all different and require different technique to get them apart. maybe some pics will let us see best way to remove this particular connector.
See below, this is what the OP was talking about. Note the locking clasp that broke off of the ignition coil sub harness female connector and sitting atop the cylinder 1 coil.

Wayne, Carol & Blue

63DC0F59-61D7-45D5-9639-E021BD954DCD.jpeg
 
I suspect you could secure that connector to the stick coil with a zip tie, but replacing the connector would definitely be a better and more permanent fix.

Oh, now I see from the photo it looks like a zip tie has already been put on it. As long as the zip tie can't slip off, that should work just fine.
 
I suspect you could secure that connector to the stick coil with a zip tie, but replacing the connector would definitely be a better and more permanent fix.

Oh, now I see from the photo it looks like a zip tie has already been put on it. As long as the zip tie can't slip off, that should work just fine.
Fred the broken connector and zip tie photo was my photo not the original poster.

Further the one I showed was zip tied very temporarily and I replaced the harness connector as to your point (in a pinch it will work) it’s not a good long term solution. Could it work, yes!? The risk is if that zip tie or other holding mechanism let’s loose roadside it’s a tough go to get to it.

Wayne, Carol & Blue
 
Okay, it’s a bit DIY, but I think it will hold better than the clips that seem to break often.
I think it’s as aesthetic as this bunch of loose wires. ;)
At the most, why not put an O-ring.
 
Fred the broken connector and zip tie photo was my photo not the original poster.

Further the one I showed was zip tied very temporarily and I replaced the harness connector as to your point (in a pinch it will work) it’s not a good long term solution. Could it work, yes!? The risk is if that zip tie or other holding mechanism let’s loose roadside it’s a tough go to get to it.

Wayne, Carol & Blue
Zip tie worked for me for a season or two. Next time in I wired in a new end .
 
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