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What have your done to your C14 today

freebird6

Member
Member
Got it out of the trailer for the first time this winter. . Snow melting left rivers across the roads and high water in the fields up to the edge of the roadway but I am heading to GA in a week to take it apart and get it ready for the summer. My bro in laws big new shell bldg has tools and heat. Can't wait. Lots of plans. Noticed my AST lights are hinky with some of the bars in this photo missing now. Need to get the fuseblock and run the wires or remove and replace. Not counting on Ryan to be of any help at all.



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zarticus

Member
Member
I installed a Copperdawg Windshield system today, I found a color matching one on ebay last month & bought it for 1/4 of what they cost new. I'm hoping I like it when I take a test ride sometime this week. I'm thinking it will be good for the summer heat here in Florida. The good thing is it only takes a couple minutes to switch out windshields so I can decide which I want to use depending on the ride/weather.
 

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shoupeja

Member
Member
Since we are currently having a few nice days in a row - 60's and sunny - I decided to pull my 2011 out of winter storage. I pulled the battery cover to begin battery installation. When I pulled the cover off I noticed a piece of black plastic fall on the ground. As it turns out, when I pulled the cover off, the stud that fits on the rubber grommet of the metal battery cover broke off. See pics. So I thought I would just order a new outer cover. I checked on Partzilla... $57.71 for the cover and $6.06 for the foil inner liner. I also have a TechSpec cover on the outside that I would have to transfer over to the new part. Rather than spend the money and time, I think I'll just try to epoxy the stud back on. We'll see how that goes. It is not a load bearing part so this might just work out.
 

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TRM-KS

Member
Member
Working leisurely and carefully from March 7 to April 7, using the FSM and Fred Harmon's videos:

1. Valve adjustment and plug replacement. Twelve of sixteen were out (tight) and three of the remaining four were at the minimum. Used the adjustment kit from Murph's which was ideal. It doesn't include o-rings for the oil pipes but mine were so hard to pop out that I saw no real need to replace them anyway. Bought new shims from Rocky Mountain ATV & MC for $1.95 each.
2. Removed and cleaned air filter. It had only 490 miles on it.
3. Cleaned battery terminals and grounds. By "cleaned" I mean 600 grit sandpaper on the frame and the bolt shoulders. I do this regularly.
4. I removed the radiator for the valve adjustment, so I also tightened the header bolts. Several were practically finger loose.
5. Relocated the Garmin GPS power leads from the battery to the front accessory leads. Should have done that in the first place.
6. Lubed the windshield tracks per the FSM.
7. Double flushed and refilled the radiator.
8. Changed oil and filter.
9. Did some minor paint touch-ups here and there with ColorRite pens.

I still have a few miscellaneous jobs to do but the valve adjustment was the biggest and is now finished.
 

zarticus

Member
Member
I installed a Copperdawg Windshield system today, I found a color matching one on ebay last month & bought it for 1/4 of what they cost new. I'm hoping I like it when I take a test ride sometime this week. I'm thinking it will be good for the summer heat here in Florida. The good thing is it only takes a couple minutes to switch out windshields so I can decide which I want to use depending on the ride/weather.
"Update" The Copperdawg is great, Lot's of air for sure. I wish it came up about 6" taller but I will use it this summer in the intense Florida heat. Definetly not good for a rainey day !
 

zarticus

Member
Member
Last week I did everything I needed to do maintenance wise to be ready for a few long distance trips I'm taking this year.
1. Changed oil & filter
2. Changed Diff oil
3. Installed speed bleeder kit from Murphs
4. Flushed all Brake systems & Clutch system.
5. Installed new Air Filter
6. Installed new powered phone mount
7. Repainted Canyon Cages
8. Installed new Highway Pegs
9. Cleaned the underside of the bike real good while it was on the lift.
10. Mounted tire on front Ninja 14R rim I bought on ebay & installed. I Bent the original rim on a pot hole on the Blue Ridge Parkway last year.
Now all I have left is to Install new tires on my extra set of wheels for trips. I have 2 sets of rims so I always have new tires ready for long trips. I have a KDS system so programing my own Tire sensors is no problem.
 

chrismpero

Member
Member
Working leisurely and carefully from March 7 to April 7, using the FSM and Fred Harmon's videos:

1. Valve adjustment and plug replacement. Twelve of sixteen were out (tight) and three of the remaining four were at the minimum. Used the adjustment kit from Murph's which was ideal. It doesn't include o-rings for the oil pipes but mine were so hard to pop out that I saw no real need to replace them anyway. Bought new shims from Rocky Mountain ATV & MC for $1.95 each.
2. Removed and cleaned air filter. It had only 490 miles on it.
3. Cleaned battery terminals and grounds. By "cleaned" I mean 600 grit sandpaper on the frame and the bolt shoulders. I do this regularly.
4. I removed the radiator for the valve adjustment, so I also tightened the header bolts. Several were practically finger loose.
5. Relocated the Garmin GPS power leads from the battery to the front accessory leads. Should have done that in the first place.
6. Lubed the windshield tracks per the FSM.
7. Double flushed and refilled the radiator.
8. Changed oil and filter.
9. Did some minor paint touch-ups here and there with ColorRite pens.

I still have a few miscellaneous jobs to do but the valve adjustment was the biggest and is now finished.
Thats a lot of work, good job! I didn't see lubing the WS tracks but I actually recently did that too.

What color bike do you have? I have Moondust and got ColorRite pens and they didn't match. Ended up getting some from Touchupdirect and it looks good. Have yet to use it tho.
 

TRM-KS

Member
Member
Thats a lot of work, good job! I didn't see lubing the WS tracks but I actually recently did that too.

What color bike do you have? I have Moondust and got ColorRite pens and they didn't match. Ended up getting some from Touchupdirect and it looks good. Have yet to use it tho.
2010, Candy Neptune Blue. My pens were a perfect match, base color, top color, and clearcoat.
 

ZXtasy

Member
Member
Installed my tank bag and went grocery shopping for my 2 household's monday BBQ.
Pretty able Grocery Getter, might try touring on it some day, LOL
 

horsenuts123

Member
Member
I changed the oil and the air filter. Honestly the air filter was a PITA compared to the bikes I owned "back in the day". I got it done without pulling the mid fairing, since I have canyon cages installed, but pulled the windscreen because getting to the push pin behind it was impossible despite what the fsm says! Unbolting the wiring connector support bracket only cost me a little bit of skin on a couple knuckles and 1 lost plastic push pin for the heat shield. But, I'm glad it's done now because the filter that came out (15K miles) was toast.
 

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texas.devops

Eager Upshifter in SW Houston
Member
I finally got around to spending the 15 mins required to install Murph's Bearinged Upshifter. Then took it out for a quick spin to see how it felt and to be frank I'm not sure I noticed any difference. If anything, I think I'll need to adjust the linkage a bit because it doesn't feel like it's in the original position. Also noticed that I get a much more notchy feel on upshift, which is likely due to the pull length (needing adjustment). The way the OEM was built it looked to be fine, even with only a plastic spacer/bushing around the Kawa fat bolt. There wasn't any play in it at all, but then I'm still only at 6k miles so far. Maybe as we get closer to 20k things will start to get smooshed, but for now it still looked like new.

We'll see when I get out this weekend to the Twisted Sisters northwest of San Antonio. If anyone lives over that way, or is heading that way, we're staying in Bandera on Friday and Saturday night. Ping me if you want to hook up. We are a group of 3, being me on my C14 with wifey and two soloists on their HDs Road Kings. Happy to have more smiling faces joining.

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kzz1king

Member
Member
I finally got around to spending the 15 mins required to install Murph's Bearinged Upshifter. Then took it out for a quick spin to see how it felt and to be frank I'm not sure I noticed any difference. If anything, I think I'll need to adjust the linkage a bit because it doesn't feel like it's in the original position. Also noticed that I get a much more notchy feel on upshift, which is likely due to the pull length (needing adjustment). The way the OEM was built it looked to be fine, even with only a plastic spacer/bushing around the Kawa fat bolt. There wasn't any play in it at all, but then I'm still only at 6k miles so far. Maybe as we get closer to 20k things will start to get smooshed, but for now it still looked like new.

We'll see when I get out this weekend to the Twisted Sisters northwest of San Antonio. If anyone lives over that way, or is heading that way, we're staying in Bandera on Friday and Saturday night. Ping me if you want to hook up. We are a group of 3, being me on my C14 with wifey and two soloists on their HDs Road Kings. Happy to have more smiling faces joining.

View attachment 29984
I did the bearing up at about 45000 and it was a huge improvement. The plastic sleeve was about gone on mine.
 

texas.devops

Eager Upshifter in SW Houston
Member
I did the bearing up at about 45000 and it was a huge improvement. The plastic sleeve was about gone on mine.

Thanks! Good to know. I'll post up a picture of mine when I get back from my weekend run.

UPDATE: here's mine with about 4,500 miles on it before the swap to the bearing'd upshifter.
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2andblue

Member
Member
Put on a set of Dunlop RS4’s.

Have about 5500 miles on the Dunlop RS3’s, really like those overall but wanted new rubber for a mtn trip coming up in a few days. Estimating about 2-3K miles left, will finish the RS3’s off this fall. Will be the most miles we’ve clocked on a set of tires on the C14.

Wayne, Carol & Blue
 

IBAJIM

Member
Member
Replaced the rear tire with a Shinko Raven and replaced the rear TPMS battery. I now have a Shinko Raven tire on both wheels.

Will grease the needle bearings on the rear suspension "arms" before re-installing the rear wheel.
 

KiowaEagle

Geezer but not on a wheezer
Member
Installed AST 2" Risers along with the Kawasaki GPS mount (mounts on top of the risers). Had to order 110mm bolts to account for both the risers and the gps mount and they did the trick. I tested the risers with a ride around the block which isn't much of a test but I think I'm going to like them just fine. I just need to find out if the wind screen will be as effective when all the way up.
 

texas.devops

Eager Upshifter in SW Houston
Member
Installed AST 2" Risers along with the Kawasaki GPS mount (mounts on top of the risers). Had to order 110mm bolts to account for both the risers and the gps mount and they did the trick. I tested the risers with a ride around the block which isn't much of a test but I think I'm going to like them just fine. I just need to find out if the wind screen will be as effective when all the way up.

The risers will make a world of difference when riding for longer than 20 mins. It combats a bit of the forward slope of the seat by letting you sit more upright. My arms are long enough that when I use my core muscles and legs to hold myself up I don't have to put any pressure on my arms at all. I can let them hang loosely so I get less fatigued and no longer get the soreness in neck & wrists or numbness in hands. This alone makes extended rides enormously more doable.

Also, I added the extra extender to the top of my screen. I'm only 5'11" but the extender cut way down on the wind noise and bugs on helmet. It makes a huge difference and didn't cost $300. Got it on Amazon for $36 if I remember correctly. Sitting upright on the bike my line of sight is dead center through it, so keeping it clean is always a priority (especially at night).

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texas.devops

Eager Upshifter in SW Houston
Member
Yesterday I was able to swap out my front tire with Ted's help and technology. Took off the OEM that came with the machine, and swapped on a Conti-Motion. The first couple corners were a bit frisky, but by the time I got on the highway I was feeling pretty confident with it. Didn't take nearly as long to scrub in as I thought it would. That new tire feel makes a world of difference on the road.

Many thanks to Ted who not only lent his tools & talent, but kept me hydrated and conversated throughout the afternoon. Super fun time! And I didn't even bust a knuckle or rip a chunk of flesh from fingers. :^ ) AB

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IBAJIM

Member
Member
Installed a new Shinko Raven rear tire along with replacing the battery in the rear TPMS sensor on my '08 C-14 with just over 20K miles. The old sensor battery was reading 3.04 volts and the sensor was working fine, but I replaced it so I didn't have to worry about it, probably for as long as I have the bike. The new battery read 3.30 volts, BTW. I had already replaced the front tire & front TPMS sensor battery early last year.

Also lubed the 4 sets of needles bearing in the rear shock wishbone area.
 

silverfoxxx

Member
Member
Just ordered the Snake Skin Tank Grips and the bag guards for my 2013 C14. And installed new tire and front wheel bearings.
 
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freebird6

Member
Member
replaced 6 of the 8 screws in the side cases Blue Loc tite to keep em there. I checked em last summer but they vibrated out. Not sure where the ones that came out went. Only found one in the bottom of my Bestem bag.
 

2andblue

Member
Member
replaced 6 of the 8 screws in the side cases Blue Loc tite to keep em there. I checked em last summer but they vibrated out. Not sure where the ones that came out went. Only found one in the bottom of my Bestem bag.
Got the same issue - been periodically tightening them..
 

GRR125

Member
Member
I installed a set of these today (Hella Supertone compact) because I had them sitting around. Installation was simple:They bolted right up, using the stock mounting bracket. It only required a short extension to the two leads. installation was not easy, due to tight working space and being on the ground. It wouldn't be so hard if done on a lift.
The sound is a big improvement over stock - it sounds like a London cab instead of a road runner. However, next time I'd go back to Piaa.
Hella.jpg
 

Bagger John

Member
Member
Joined COG as a member. :cool:

My '12 is about halfway disassembled. Valve adjustment, new fluids, thorough cleaning before the snow flies...then the real work begins. Currently, I have a dual-band ham rig and a JMCB-2003 on the bike, mounted in and around the cockpit area. Those are coming off. The Givi V46 and Phil's Rack are coming off as well and are being replaced by a police-motor top box. That's going to be used to house the main chassis of two amateur radio rigs plus an auxiliary battery, charge controller and control circuits for extra lighting. Cockpit area gets reworked with extra switches and controls so I can remotely tune or operate either ham rig without taking my hands off the bars. Lots more to add - probably needs a thread unto itself when I'm done.

This is going to be a fun solo bike project. My lady friend throws rocks at the Connies anyway; she prefers riding on my cruisers.
 
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Road Runner

SE USA - AAD
Member
Bike at shop today, to have Michelin Road 5 GT tires (front and rear) installed. Rainy here in N. AL today and tomorrow, so will be a good test to see how well they perform, but will have to be somewhat careful since (you know) new tires can be rather slick for the first N miles>
 

texas.devops

Eager Upshifter in SW Houston
Member
Bike at shop today, to have Michelin Road 5 GT tires (front and rear) installed. Rainy here in N. AL today and tomorrow, so will be a good test to see how well they perform, but will have to be somewhat careful since (you know) new tires can be rather slick for the first N miles>

Actually, sport touring tires like these normally do not require scrub-in. When I installed my ContiMotion front I was surprised by how they were sticky right away after leaving Ted's garage. I even made a remark about it here on the forum. So I did a little research and saw some reviews where the dudes mentioned that sport touring tires aren't like other types that require ~50 to 100 miles to scrub.

Then two weeks ago I installed the new ContiMotion rear and noticed again that it too was sticky right away, which reinforced what I had learned while reading and watching reviews. That weekend we had rain in Houston-metro and I got caught on the tail end of a front that passed through. Initially I slowed way down to compensate but remembered that these aren't the OEM Battlaxes so I relaxed and was not disappointed. Zero issues with traction even on the painted parts.

So, long story short, use normal precautions when pulling away from traffic lights or hitting puddles but don't be paranoid about your new tires + wet roads under normal conditions. Don't know where you'll be riding but keep your eyes open for potholes that're filled with water. Those suck.

Looking forward to your feedback after the ride. :^ ) AB
 

Road Runner

SE USA - AAD
Member
"sport touring tires like these normally do not require scrub-in." Actually, they were pretty slick, as usual, so I erred on the safe side to break 'em in. Dealership noted this as well.
 

texas.devops

Eager Upshifter in SW Houston
Member
"sport touring tires like these normally do not require scrub-in." Actually, they were pretty slick, as usual, so I erred on the safe side to break 'em in. Dealership noted this as well.

Interesting. Good to know for that tire and glad you got home safely. I can assure you the ContiMotions did NOT have this issue.
 

maverick9611

“tryin not to get old”
Member
I put on madstad windshield brackets I got from a connie member.
I checked various angles. works great, even at 120😳
 

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maverick9611

“tryin not to get old”
Member
Im really digging the madstad. lots of adjustability.
I tried the vstream(sold it cog member after 1 ride)
I think the factory windscreen is a keeper. it has great lines and looks good for the 08.
I'm still going to leave my mra x-screen on just in case. folks the x-screen works!
here is the one I use. they have a touring model tool. well made/german
 

maverick9611

“tryin not to get old”
Member
I'm going down for the December blast in Titusville. this will allow even more tuning. kinda weird having the windshield extended out but it does reduces buffeting
 

2andblue

Member
Member
Im really digging the madstad. lots of adjustability.
I think the factory windscreen is a keeper. it has great lines and looks good for the 08.
I'm still going to leave my mra x-screen on just in case. folks the x-screen works!
well made/german
Maverick if you had to choose one could you determine if it is the X-Screen foil or the Madstad that had the bigger impact? Do you feel each serves its own purpose or are they complimentary?

Then the X-Screen being at the tippy-top of the windshield would appear to have a leverage point unkind to the adjustable windshield mounted. Have you experienced the X-Screen on a windy day and / or direct wind blast from oncoming large profile vehicles - if so any dramatic windshield movement?

Thanks for sharing.
 

maverick9611

“tryin not to get old”
Member
no on windblast/truckers goin by. the x-screen is solid as rock. depending on weather conditions sometimes I fold it down or if it's really cold and rainy I'll have it at max extension. clear instead of smoke would have been a better choice but I stole this off my 250 ninja
 
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