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Your fuse block of choice

onpman4402

Guest
Guest
Looking for ideas for a simple fuse block that i can install to add a few accessories. Right I'm thinking heated grips, heated vest and gps. Let's hear what you got.
 
Centech ap-2... about $50. Has constant and switched power. Runs my gps, auxiliary led lighting, rostra cruise control, secondary powered outlet mounted on left side of dash in the dead spot next to headlight adjuster.
 
Centech ap-2... about $50. Has constant and switched power. Runs my gps, auxiliary led lighting, rostra cruise control, secondary powered outlet mounted on left side of dash in the dead spot next to headlight adjuster.
Nice. I like the price and clean look. Is the max 15 amps per fuse?
 
Im having difficulty cutting and pasting the specs and description from amazon. But its split into 2 sections. 1 at 40amps that have 3 fuses and 5 total output slots. And the other at 20 amps with 2 fuses and 3 output slots.... so in theory u could have 2 15 amp fuses and a 10amp in the 40 amp section ...i think thats the switched side. The contast power is the 20amp side..
 
Im having difficulty cutting and pasting the specs and description from amazon. But its split into 2 sections. 1 at 40amps that have 3 fuses and 5 total output slots. And the other at 20 amps with 2 fuses and 3 output slots.... so in theory u could have 2 15 amp fuses and a 10amp in the 40 amp section ...i think thats the switched side. The contast power is the 20amp side..
Great! Thanks for the info.
 
I have been using the Rowe Electronics PDM60 for several years with good success. What is it is actually a set of electronic relays that can be programmed to the amount of current (AMPS) needed for any particular Farkle. For example, I run Denali DMs for conspicuity lights which require just under 2A, so I set the circuit to use 4 of the potential 60A available across the 6 circuits. The horn on the other hand requires many more AMPS so you can combine two circuits and set them for a total of 30A. I also have a front and back dashcam powered by the PDM which takes another couple of AMPS. For the 6 available circuits, you can use either ground triggered devices (Horn) or voltage triggers depending on the device. The system eliminates the need for relays, it is a set of solid state relays. If a short or fault occurs, it is easy to see which circuit is having issues and troubleshoot it. The system tries to reset a faulty circuit for you with a power cycle. Finally, I set the power on delay for the lights and dashcam for 10 seconds after I turn on the ignition to prevent unnecessary battery drain. Mine is mounted inside the old tool tray next to the Signal Dynamics Backoff brake light modulator.
 

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Centech AP-2 mounted in the tank compartment of my 2009. Don't have the communication system anymore. I have my thermometer, GPS, phone and grip heater attached to the switched. I have my trickle charger attached to the unswitched so I open the door of the compartment to plug it in. This is a 10 year old picture.
 

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Nice set-up Bigbaldy...Thank you
Thanks. I've updated it recently. The fuse block is in the same place but I've re-run the wires and changed some accessories. I'm about to throw the bike up on the lift to go through my brakes so I'll rip the cover off and take a new pic. I drilled holes and purchased rubber grommets to run the wires through so its waterproof and won't rub the insulation off of the wiring. The relay that runs the block is on the right side of the bike under the right side upper and the wires run directly to the battery. Make sure you use heavier gauge wire (I think I used 14g) from the battery to the relay and then to the block for both positive and negative wires.
 
Yeah, Rowe is proud of the devices. About $200 in today's money. I looked into several other and cheaper solutions and settled on the PDM in part because it was a nice piece of tech.

Cheers!

Gilbysan, aka - Fat Ninja
 
+1 on Fuzeblocks, it is relatively inexpensive and works. I use a Neutrino which is similar to the PDM60. Both are more expensive. No comments on the PDM60 because I have not used it. I love the Neutrino because if there is anything that would cause a circuit to blow, all you have to do is power down and back up, no new fuse necessary. Also each circuit can be tailored to the power requirements you need for that accessory and you can specify how long each circuit waits to power up and continues to power after you turn the power off. I used this feature to keep a circuit on 30 minutes after I turn off the ignition so my intercom system charges in the top box while I stop for lunch.
 
Yeah, same op on the PDM60, each circuit tailor-able for current draw up to a total AMP draw of 60 AMPs, so for my horn I put two circuits together to handle the high load and it works great. I have had a fault in my lighting circuit and it was nice to have the system reset itself automagically.

Cheers!

Gilbysan, aka - Fat Ninja
 
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