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Checking out an 04 C10, What to look for?

schwarz748449

Member
Member
I’m going tomorrow to check out and probably pick up an 04. So far it looks and sounds like a run around a smaller town and back roads kind of use.
Talking with the owner I know he bought it and put 700 miles on it. Sounds like the choke(& probably the carbs) will need adjusting. It has just under 31K and will end up around $2000.

Comes with a ton of spare parts and panels, full set of panniers(side ones look like original concours ones)and original and larger windscreen.

What should I look and listen for during the test ride?

Can I tell if the overflow kit has been installed on the carbs just by look or feel?

Can I tell by riding of there has been a hydrolock issue and a rod is bent?

I will bring a flashlight and look into the tank for rust and I’ve told him to not run the bike until I get there so I can see & hear the cold start.

Anything else I’ve missed and should check for.
 
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You can tell if it has the overflow kit by looking at the carbs. There won’t be any difference in feel. Check Steve’s site for images.
Similarly, you most likely won’t be able to feel a hydrolock issue or bent rod, especially if it’s running, but is running rough from the carbs. But doing the correct check for it isn’t a huge deal and probably worth the 15 minutes for a bike of this vintage.
As for the choke and carbs, in 65k miles of riding my ‘94, I never had either go out of adjustment. But you sure do hear an awful lot of stories about them getting gummed up by just a season or two of sitting idle. There are lots of ways to try to resolve it (Seafoam, Italian Tuneup, etc…), but many riders end up finally landing on a carb rebuilt as the last resort.
Other items you might check:
1. Look for a small oil leak above the left rider footpeg. This is where the waterpump is and there is o-ring that tends to fail, leaking oil (not water) onto the left header. Sometimes you’ll have this happening but never see oil in the garage, because it’s burning off as you ride. I first notice mine while stopped at a light and looked down to see little puffs of oil smoke near my foot.
2. Check the age of the tires. They could be new, or they could be old and unused, which could be an issue to address.
3. I’d remove the side panels and check for any damage. Also look at the front edge of the gas tank to be sure there are no dents from a front end collision. Maybe the PO liked to stockpile parts, but another reason to have tons of spare panels is because you needed to replace the originals. Not a big deal if it was just plastic damage, but I’d look.
Best of luck!
 
Thanks very much. I’ll add that to the list of things to check I have from an earlier post.

Hopefully I’ll be the proud owner of a concours tomorrow.
 
Just a suggestion perhaps to read up on WillyP's "Tips, Tricks, a few Important Warnings, and other Valuable Threads Indexed Here" that's pinned at the top of this forum section. Lot of good stuff there that may help you in your evaluation.
Hydrolock is the only real bike killer for the C-10 that I know of. Only way to really tell is pull the spark plugs and measure\compare piston heights.

 
When overflow tubes are installed they drain out of the bottom of the bowls at the same place as the bowl drain. A drain tube system is usually added to the bottom of the bowls. If the drain tubes are there, they will allow air to flow up and out of the carb top vent, or fuel to drain. No overflow tubes and the bowl drain fitting will not pass air because the drain screws only open to the bottom of the bowl, and should be seated closed.
If there are overflow tubes, a leaking float valve may only show when running. Leaking at idle. It may not idle smooth, but run OK at higher RPM.
 
Ask the owner if he had Steve do a carb rebuild and installed the 2 minute jet kit and overflow tubes.
If he did, great!
If he didn't, mention your concerns about hydro lock.

Most people wouldn't allow someone to do the check there, but you might reach an agreement for a return if you buy it and discover that it was hydro locked.
ie; Do a hydro lock test as soon as you get home.

Ride safe, Ted
 
I’m going tomorrow to check out and probably pick up an 04. So far it looks and sounds like a run around a smaller town and back roads kind of use.
Talking with the owner I know he bought it and put 700 miles on it. Sounds like the choke(& probably the carbs) will need adjusting. It has just under 31K and will end up around $2000.

Comes with a ton of spare parts and panels, full set of panniers(side ones look like original concours ones)and original and larger windscreen.

What should I look and listen for during the test ride?

Can I tell if the overflow kit has been installed on the carbs just by look or feel?

Can I tell by riding of there has been a hydrolock issue and a rod is bent?

I will bring a flashlight and look into the tank for rust and I’ve told him to not run the bike until I get there so I can see & hear the cold start.

Anything else I’ve missed and should check for.

Was/is the PO a member of COG? Might get some more straight-up answers if he/she, is/was.
 
PO wasn’t member of COG but really nice Older gentleman. Bike looked good, ran great and is now in my garage. Thanks for the list of things to check and look for. Choke is doing exactly what it should be doing.

Proud owner of New to me 04 C10.

Please bring on the list of must do mods.

1. Add Tip Over Bars. Soon to be Proud member of CDA. Tried to put it on the center stand by myself at end of test ride in PO’s driveway.
2. All carb & tuning mods from Steve at Shoodaben Engineering
3. ??
 

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Congrats! She will give you years of good riding and enjoyment.
First thing I'd do is read through this entire thread: https://forum.concours.org/index.php?threads/maintenance-and-the-new-owner.29794/.
When I bought my Connie back in 2011, I immediately changed all fluids to include fork oil and antifreeze. changed brake pads, , retorqued critical bolts, and put new rubber on her. I'm one of those weird people that for some reason cannot rely on what previous owners say about routine maintenance.
You've already done the most important mod, which is join COG as a member!
Some other suggestions for mods and I'm sure others will soon chime in.
- Free Power Mod.
- Upgraded fork springs or go to cartridge emulators.
- Stainless steel brake and clutch lines.
- Fender Extender.

Do yourself a favor and bookmark Murph's site. I spent a lot of time there early on, and still buy parts from him. Good guy and great service.
Again, Congrats!
 
I agree with steves1959 - all fluids should be changed and brakes/tires/nuts and bolts inspected for safety sake. Once you get the bike sorted out, ride it and see what you like and what you don't. Tip over bars, fender extenders and overflow tubes are good mods because they protect your investment, but if it runs good with no issues there's no sense doing carb and tuning mods right away. Maybe you can't stand the seat or the riding position - there are things that can be done about that. Get used to the bike and make it comfortable and enjoyable first, then if you feel like delving into performance and/or suspension mods, open your wallet and toolbox have some fun!
 
Nice looking bike! Congratulations.
It looks like you have the OE backrest, which is a rare bird to find.
The windshield is interesting, with the vent.
Ditto on all the previous suggestions, and I'll add one more, if you can find it: Fork Brace.
The C10 cam wobble a little bit if you hit a bump un a turn. The fork brace really cuts that significantly, giving you more stability in turns.
Another suggestion is to mount some lights, bright ones, in the tip-over bars. These will help OTHERS see you coming. I had 7W LED flood lights on my C10 that I would turn off at night to keep from blinding on-coming drivers, and have 5W ones on my C14.
 
Congrats! She will give you years of good riding and enjoyment.
First thing I'd do is read through this entire thread: https://forum.concours.org/index.php?threads/maintenance-and-the-new-owner.29794/.
When I bought my Connie back in 2011, I immediately changed all fluids to include fork oil and antifreeze. changed brake pads, , retorqued critical bolts, and put new rubber on her. I'm one of those weird people that for some reason cannot rely on what previous owners say about routine maintenance.
You've already done the most important mod, which is join COG as a member!
Some other suggestions for mods and I'm sure others will soon chime in.
- Free Power Mod.
- Upgraded fork springs or go to cartridge emulators.
- Stainless steel brake and clutch lines.
- Fender Extender.

Do yourself a favor and bookmark Murph's site. I spent a lot of time there early on, and still buy parts from him. Good guy and great service.
Again, Congrats!
Adding all those to the winter projects list. I already have all the fluids and new filters on the way. Changing those out tomorrow. Tires are being changed this winter too. They are avon spirits(I think)
With lots of tread left but made in 2018 so they need a change.
 
If you’re tall, maybe add the highway pegs, peg lowering kit, and bar risers all from Murph’s Kits.
Looking now at bar risers, highway pegs and the fender extender.

Also looking for a way to mount a Givi monokey top case if anyone knows what I need for that.
 
Looking now at bar risers, highway pegs and the fender extender.

Also looking for a way to mount a Givi monokey top case if anyone knows what I need for that.

Look for a thread on here for Philsfarkes. He makes awesome racks and they’re strong. I had one on the C10 (I think) and there’s one on my C-14 now. I have a Givi E52 on it and used it on the C-10, too. Tough box. Same box on each bike.
 

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Looking now at bar risers, highway pegs and the fender extender.

Also looking for a way to mount a Givi monokey top case if anyone knows what I need for that.

It’s coming back to me. LOL

There’s a Givi adapter kit (e128) that is used but is no longer made. You see them on eBay and this forum sometimes. You take the tail cover off and the OEM rack. Then the givi kit bolts in. The box goes on it. Maybe someone else BBC will remember the kit number. Seems like there might’ve been a “ universal” type too.

Use the search function or Google and you’ll get hits. Konehead 34 has a good post in this thread https://forum.concours.org/index.php?threads/top-case-trunk-questions.53960/
 
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Bike looks awesome. Congrats on the purchase.
Regarding center-stand move: it’s one worth perfecting, but for many of us took a little practice, grunt and commitment to the result. I’m 5-8, 168lbs and I was able to reliably get my C10 on the stand. Key was to first absolutely ensure that the bike was level and both legs of the stand were in even contact with the ground. Then I stood on the stand while performing a deadlift move on the seat handle. If all your weight is on the stand leg and you are pulling directly up, there should be no tipping moment.
If that doesn’t work, your either a wimp or your bike has been lowered (kidding - about the wimp part). If it’s been lowered, the hack is to roll one of the wheels onto a 2x4. But this will increase the initial instability. Good luck!
 
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