Grinding sound from front brakes

[x01660]

So I have this strange issue that popped up after my last ride.

I usually ride with headphones in. When I got back, I noticed that my front brakes seemed to be grinding and slightly pulling to the left when getting on the brakes.

I just replaced the pads, and I just took the calipers off, and the pads are fine. I put them back on, and now it seems a bit better.

I still get a grinding and pulling sensation when braking while turning. I thought it was the floating rotors, but it sounds louder than that. There's no shimmy in the braking, just that weird grinding sound.

Ideas?

I think I found the problem; I installed a lightbar that I got from a member on here. Mounts to the bike using the fairing bolts that are above the coolant reservoir cover (not the ones holding it, but the ones above it). And when I brake, the bar is rubbing on the fender extender that I have installed. Looks like I'll have to mill some millimeters off the mount points to get it closer to the bike. Or relocate it somewhere else... That, and rebuild my forks for my weight.

I think I'm good. If a mod wants to delete this, please feel free.

Thanks!

-x01660

 

[Bud]

We like to keep threads so others can learn from experiences like yours.

 

[connie_rider]

X, crank in the preload and check the sag.
Just the preload might be e'nuff to get your front end correct.

Ride safe, Ted

 

[x01660]

X, crank in the preload and check the sag.
Just the preload might be e'nuff to get your front end correct.

Ride safe, Ted

The air preload for the front end is located in the handlebar mount, right? I gotta go get an air chuck adapter for my air pump since I don't have one. Gonna see if they have one at Home Depot.

-x01660

 

[connie_rider]

Didn't realize that you have an 86/90?
If you have one of those, there is no preload adjustment.
But you don't have to do a complete rebuild.
You can remove only the caps, flush/drain/refill the oil, and then shorten the springs and add spacers to increase the springs force.
EZ to do.

Ride safe, Ted

 

[x01660]

Didn't realize that you have an 86/90?
If you have one of those, there is no preload adjustment.
But you don't have to do a complete rebuild.
You can remove only the caps, flush/drain/refill the oil, and then shorten the springs and add spacers to increase the springs force.
EZ to do.

Ride safe, Ted

Mine is an 05...

 

[Bud]

Preload is on top of the fork tube. 10 mm wrench fits.

 

[connie_rider]

You don't need an air-chuck for the front forks. An 05 doesn't have a place to put air in the forks. It was changed to a pre-load adjuster.
Bud gave you the information you need to adjust it.

If you fill the rear shock using your air compressor, you "MUST" regulate the pressure down so that you don't put too much pressure in the shock. I don't know your weight etc, but suggest you start at about 30 PSI.

Ride safe, Ted

 

[x01660]

You don't need an air-chuck for the front forks. An 05 doesn't have a place to put air in the forks. It was changed to a pre-load adjuster.
Bud gave you the information you need to adjust it.

If you fill the rear shock using your air compressor, you "MUST" regulate the pressure down so that you don't put too much pressure in the shock. I don't know your weight etc, but suggest you start at about 30 PSI.

Ride safe, Ted

I have an air pump that has a regulator in it; you set the pressure, then it pumps the air and stops.

I'm a big dude. 6'2, 300 lbs. I also read in the shop manual that I should NOT exceed 76 PSI as I may blow out the oil seal in the shock.

I don't have a quick release adaptor, but I do have that pump with the regulator. And when you set the pressure, it overinflates by 5 PSI (I've measured) to account for removing the connector.

I think I read that I should set it to 50 PSI, so I'm gonna do that for the rear.

I'll check the adjustment for the front. Gonna do that before I go on my next ride.

Thanks!

-x01660

 

[connie_rider]

50 will work for you, and (in this case) the 5 psi overinflation is a plus because the rear shock has very little volume.
It's fine to use a std air chuck.

Set the regulator to 50 PSI and put the air chuck on the Shrader valve.
Hold it there.
It will fill to 55 PSI and you will hear the air flow stop.
After it stops, "briskly" remove the air chuck. (A bit of air will escape as you remove it).
Due the small volume of the rear shock, the result will be approx. 50 PSI.

Ride safe, Ted

 

[x01660]

Holy moly..... setting the preload and pumping the rear shock (had NO air in it) has made a PHENOMENAL difference... in everything....

What a concept; setting the suspension up for my weight...

And the light bar has stopped hitting the fender extender.

Thanks again, y'all.

-x01660

 

[Bud]

My 05 rode and looked like crap when I first bought it. It's a different story now. There's a lot to be learned here. Glad it made such a tremendous difference.

 

[x01660]

My 05 rode and looked like crap when I first bought it. It's a different story now. There's a lot to be learned here. Glad it made such a tremendous difference.

Are there any members on here that are suspension specialists? I'd LOVE to take my bike to someone to have the suspension dialed in for my weight, including redoing the front forks....

This is a fantastic machine.... Starting to understand why people rave about it.... the magazine reviews don't do it justice...

I also have a question about Murphs knee savers; how much cornering clearance do you lose? Is it pretty drastic? I've yet to drag a peg in the corner, but I do drop my heel down in corners and have just barely scraped my heel on the ground. Mind you, this is in a city, so there aren't too many places to "get a knee down" so to speak, but I do ride pretty hard when I get a chance.

-x01660

 

[connie_rider]

I'm not a suspension expert.

This will get you in the ball park.
The C-10 does not have an adjustment for Damping on the front.
Nothing to adjust so go to the rear.

It does have a damping adjustment on the rear.
So, (for now) set the Rear damping adjustment to the "middle setting".
(I think it has 4 steps so use 2 or 3)
One of those should be fine for now.

Most Important; You need to "set your sag".
Don't get excited. People think it's a mystery, but it's actually pretty EZ to do.
NOTE: It's the most important step, but Most people NEVER do it!

Before you set the sag, you need to watch/study this video and get it into your mind.
(explains suspension terminology)

After you understand the basics, watch/study this video next a couple of times.
(explains how to set the sag)

Lastly, use what you learned and adjust 2 "things". Try to get a loaded sag of approx. 35-40 mm.
**The 2 Things to adjust are; Front; Adjust Preload / Rear; adjust air pressure.

NOTE: With the weight you gave me, I'd set the rear to 50 PSI and crank-in all the front pre-load (ride height adjustment)
I'm guessing you'll have about 45 mm of loaded sag on both ends with that done.
45 mm is not ideal but it's ok.
If I'm correct about the 45 mm {and you want to reduce the sag to 35-40 mm} you'll have to start changing (or modifying) parts.

Ride safe, Ted