Hi all. Just recently purchased a 2003 zg1000. Looks well cared for and have ridden about a 100 miles so far (picked up Saturday and we have had some weird warm winter weather for central mass) has around 63000 on the clock. Only issue I have is I have the 2k stumble (I am going to sync the carbs soon) and the front brake switch is not working, will take off and clean before going on any other rides. I have searched and because the threads are so long now I can't get a solid answer but what is needed for the 2 minute jet mod? Just from reading countless posts this seems to clear up that partial throttle hickup. Thank you all. My father in-law is a member (c14) and convinced me with out much effort to pick up a Connie.
-
WOULD YOU LIKE TO BE ABLE TO POST? REGISTER FOR COG MEMBERSHIP
All registration must be done through the club's main webpage: To register / join COG, click here
For instructions to convert to full membership, click here
-
Can't post after logging to the forum for the first time... Try Again - If you can't post in the forum, sign out of both the membership site and the forum and log in again. Make sure your COG membership is active and your browser allow cookies. If you still can't post, contact the COG IT guy at IT@Concours.org.
New c10 owner with a few questions
- Thread starter jmacfann5357
- Start date
The 2MM has proprietary main jets and foam blocks to block off a portion of one of the airbox openings.
If the carbs are running good I think you can purchase the kit at shoodabeenengineering.com and install it yourself.
A lot of guys get the full service and kit install by sending the carbs in but I think the shop is down right now due to a fire.
If the carbs are running good I think you can purchase the kit at shoodabeenengineering.com and install it yourself.
A lot of guys get the full service and kit install by sending the carbs in but I think the shop is down right now due to a fire.
Last edited:
Thank you I didn't realize he had a fire. Hopefully everyone is okay. I will synch them and see if that helps. I am avoiding pulling the carbs as everything does seem good other than that.
The fire was not qat Steve's shop. Due to illness he had trained another to do the carb. work, and the fire was at that guys shop.
There is a chance that his shop has been repaired and he'll eventually start doing carbs. again.
On your stumble, do some regular maintenance (check the filter vacuum lines etc), add a bit of carb cleaner and ride the bike. Bekuz 100 miles (after setting) isn't enough miles to unstop anything in the carbs. There's a chance that it will fix itself.
While doing that look at the lower front of the Air box. See if there is a crack along that edge. If there isa crack, it will need to be repaired.
Lastly, do the Free Power Mod. There is a chance that it will help too.
Ride safe, Ted
PS: Congratulation on your new toy. Fortunately, you got the Fastest Color.
There is a chance that his shop has been repaired and he'll eventually start doing carbs. again.
On your stumble, do some regular maintenance (check the filter vacuum lines etc), add a bit of carb cleaner and ride the bike. Bekuz 100 miles (after setting) isn't enough miles to unstop anything in the carbs. There's a chance that it will fix itself.
While doing that look at the lower front of the Air box. See if there is a crack along that edge. If there isa crack, it will need to be repaired.
Lastly, do the Free Power Mod. There is a chance that it will help too.
Ride safe, Ted
PS: Congratulation on your new toy. Fortunately, you got the Fastest Color.
Here we go… @jmaccfann5357 glad you found us! Come join the Group - as a full member you have access to many technical how-tos that will make your introduction to you new to you C-10 much more enjoyable.
For your stumble is this a stuttering or a subtle almost like you are closing the throttle and reopening? If it’s a stutter I am more with carbs are just dirty and the transition between jets is causing a problem. As mentioned valve sync and then balance will tell you where to go from there.
Look to see you around and you being central Mass we’ll need to link up for some riding this upcoming year. Also see the calendar of events to meet some others in the area - Join for the bike, Stay for the people!
Wayne
Wayne sed'; Here we go…Guess I shoulda sed;
PS: Congratulation on your new toy.
Fortunately, you got the Fastest Color and not one of the slower colors.
Ride safe, Ted
PS: Gmacfann, if you add carb. cleaner. Mix at the correct proportions and do not let the bike set with the cleaner in the carbs for an extended period.
ie; Ride that baby!! (or drain after a time and fill with fresh fuel)
Last edited:
Thanks everyone, I know everyone has there oppionion on it but I did do a little sea foam in a fresh tank of fuel and will try and get out to get it through the carbs. As for stutter it is definitely a keep it at 2k ish in 2nd it just kind of has a surge stutter thing, no acceleration issue. I will take a look at the air box because at idle it does hop a bit like an air leak. This is going to be my only bike as I promised my wife I would sell the others so I want to make sure it's tip top. Looks like the snow is going to be showing up for bit tonight so I may have to get in 50 miles before it shows
jmacfann5357
Welcome to the club - you'll like it here.
After you check out the air box, often stumbles can be caused by clogged pilot jets. The passages are really small and are difficult to clean. If you get into the carbs, I suggest buying new pilot jets - Murphs Kits can help you.
Feel free to ask questions,, and join COG as soon as you are able.
Larry
Yes, my experience on other Kawasakis that use the same Keihin CVK carbs has shown that dirty or clogged pilot jets and/or idle circuits can cause off-idle and low-RPM stumbles. As Larry said, the pilot jet orifices are TINY (barely large enough to see a pinprick of light). They also supply the idle circuit, so idle issues can be related. If the idle circuit (especially the needle adjuster screw) is plugged or restricted, you end up setting the idle speed screw farther open, which starts engaging the transfer ports from the idle circuit, making off-idle transition worse.
Usually these problems are worse when cold (when a lean condition is more apparent), and subside as it warms up. For years, my ZX600-C was temperamental when cold, idled rough, and had a slight uneven spot at 3,000rpm even when warmed up, but otherwise ran well. Two years ago I did a full carb teardown, cleaned everything thoroughly, and adjusted the idle mixture screws properly. I was amazed at how much smoother it ran.
Usually these problems are worse when cold (when a lean condition is more apparent), and subside as it warms up. For years, my ZX600-C was temperamental when cold, idled rough, and had a slight uneven spot at 3,000rpm even when warmed up, but otherwise ran well. Two years ago I did a full carb teardown, cleaned everything thoroughly, and adjusted the idle mixture screws properly. I was amazed at how much smoother it ran.
Thank you both. I did notice that the air filter cover is well just a random peace of plastic cut to size as well as the large tube going from the pair valve was not all the way in. Unfortunately my garage has no power running to it so will have to wait till day light to get that all set. Air box all in all appears to have no cracks though.
Thank you Jorge. Yes miles on a bike are over blown on most if cared for. I have had 40'ish bikes in my short 40 years on the planet. I have many with "high miles" and I have to say all it does is give me a deal on some good ol bikes.(f4i I got had 48k and it was going to be sold for parts because "sport bike engines explode after 30k) I will become a full member soon though as everyone is very helpful and none of the usual forum nonsense.
The stock air filter cover doesn't match the rest of the plastic. It's an odd-looking shiny plastic, vs the matte black of the rest of the cover. You can find some photos on an image search or on ebay listings. Maybe yours is original?
In any case, as long as it seals, it doesn't really matter. The stock foam on the back tends to disintegrate, so at the point all these bikes are 20+ years old, it would need replacement. I used a thin bulb-shaped adhesive window weather-stripping to replace mine, which worked really well. Any compressible foam would do fine, though.
Okay well I guess it's not a random price of plastic (it looks like an afterthought). I am still trying to figure out if the slight gap around the tube going from the pair valve into the air box is causing any issues(I would assume yes as it would cause a lean condition.)
Just going to replace the main and pilot jets, ordering from murphs. Also does anyone have a picture of how there lines are routed under the tank. I just can't seem to get that damn hose to go into the air box correctly. Maybe I'll just get an appropriate sized vacuum line and replace it.
Most folks take all that stuff out on top of the valve cover , plug the hole in the airbox and install block off plates . ( Murphs sells them) . Really cleans up the top of the engine .
The large tube into the airbox should have a rubber grommet that gives a tight seal.
I removed my suction air system and used a valvecover from a GPZ900 from Europe that didn't have the air system, but you can remove it while keeping your stock valve cover. You can either use rubber caps on the reed valve housings, or remove the tips and use the blank plates that Murph sells
In any case, here's
the hose routing before I removed mine (the hose with a bolt is the vacuum line to the petcock: I was running on an IV bottle with the tank off, so I had to plug it temporarily).
I removed my suction air system and used a valvecover from a GPZ900 from Europe that didn't have the air system, but you can remove it while keeping your stock valve cover. You can either use rubber caps on the reed valve housings, or remove the tips and use the blank plates that Murph sells
In any case, here's
the hose routing before I removed mine (the hose with a bolt is the vacuum line to the petcock: I was running on an IV bottle with the tank off, so I had to plug it temporarily).
Here's mine with the GPZ valvecover, and how I blocked the hole in the airbox (haven't put the carbs, airbox, or coils back on the bike just yet).
The plug for the airbox was a plastic furniture plug from Ace that fit snugly into the original grommet. I used some RTV on it for extra security.
The plug for the airbox was a plastic furniture plug from Ace that fit snugly into the original grommet. I used some RTV on it for extra security.
Last edited:
Good idea, that is what I have done on multiple other bikes and they are cheap money.
Looks like mine is just routed wrong and the fuel like is pressed down on it. But some times the easy solution is the right one. Time to head to Lowe's and pick up a bolt to plug the air box and some big vacuum caps.yrs I will rtv around the bolt. Thanks for the pictures appreciate it.
Here are a few photos of the air filter cover and weatherstripping I used. It was brown (what I had on hand), so I used a sharpie to color the visible part black. Nobody but me is going to see it, anyway, though, haha.
I have block off plates that I had on my 2000. Don’t need them anymore as I also went the European valve cover route. Send me your address via message and they’re yours.
My Connie originally came from Maine as we live in Northern NE :VT, NH and ME from 00-18. Now in Western NC
Doug
Thank you that is extremely kind of you. Weather is probably a little warmer in the winter down there. Love New England (minus the cape and islands). Spend time in the white mountains with the family every summer. This year has not been what I would call winter though.
I ended up doing what Steve did in one of his YouTube videos and used some black rtv seems like a nice tight seel. Plus I had some laying around and Im one cheap son of a gun.
Meh I'm not that classy I'm just cheap.