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Riding with total coolant loss

DaveofDublin

Member
Member
Two days ago, I rode 90 miles up into the flat farmland of NW Ohio to work at the family farm. A 70 degF day in the middle of March. The ride up was normal, and my Connie ran fine. Normal cooling. 165 degF in the cool morning, up to 175 degF thermostat temp when I arrived. I'm running 3 inch vent flaps, on my '93, and have digital temp sensors in the thermostat drain plug, and the oil pan. Haven't had a cooling hiccup in several years. 145K on her.

At 1800 hrs I packed up and headed back home. Air temp was in the mid 60s, and she warmed up to 175 degF on the thermostat. Was doing 65 mph on the county roads, and didn't pay any more attention to the engine for a while. Running fine. About 20 miles into the ride, it got weird. Noticed that the temp gauge on the dash was showing cold. Off scale to the left. Checking the digital for the thermostat temp, it was at 120 degF, and slowly dropping. Still at 65 mph, on empty county roads. Big farms with few houses. Not the place one wants to break down late in the evening. Connie was running fine, and sounded good. Air temp dropping to around 60. Kept going at 65 mph.

Hoped it was a stuck open thermostat, but the thermostat temp dropped down to 80 degF, and held there. No coolant smell, so thinking water pump? Checking the oil pan temp, it was at 185 degF and steady. Made it to the motorway, and ran the last 40 miles for home at 70+ mph. Air temp down to 55 degF. Oil temp steady at 185 degF. Hoped the cool air at speed, and the cool oil, would get me home.

Flipped on the radiator fan bypass switch, coming off the motorway. Rolled a few stop signs, and hit the 3 traffic lights on green. Pulled into the driveway, and shut her down. Had run great. A small dribble of coolant came out, and stopped.

The leak was the small hose on the inlet of the water pump. Had swollen over the years, and touched the exhaust. Blew the coolant out onto the road, without any steam or smell or anything. After putting the new hose on, and refilling the coolant, she leaked at all 4 o-rings on the front coolant log. But after running her around the neighborhood a bit, they sealed again, and no drips this morning. Rode 20 miles of errands, fairly close to home.

Was this a common experience on C10s?
 
Same hose went out on my 86 and it tends to be the one that goes out first due to the location next to the exhaust pipes. Fortunately for me I realized it right away and it was only around 40 degrees out and I only had 5 miles to get home.

The biggest danger is warping the head if it gets too hot and it sounds like you are ok.
 
Thanks for that. For sure wish it had been cooler and closer to home, but below 65 degF at speed seems to have worked for me. Rode her another 25 miles today, some in traffic and some at speed. No leaks. Hope I don't have to repeat all this under warmer conditions.

Tried to imagine what a warped head would display. Oil is clear, and the coolant is clean. Running great. Got 42 mpg during the 180 mile ride, including the last part without the coolant. She's kinda noisy in the valves and all, but that's nothing new.

Tried to see the small water pump inlet hose, from the opening in the bottom fairing. Can't reach it without taking off the plastic. But laying on the right side of the bike and looking up through the bottom hole, and across, can just see the gap between the new hose and the exhaust. Maybe 1/4 inch, with the hose new. I'd shortened the hose a half inch, to help raise the new hose and separate more from the exhaust pipe. May help. For sure I'll be carrying some spare hose when riding out of town.
 
A friend of mine who is a mechanic warped a head on his 4 cylinder car. (hose broke on freeway in summer and instead of stopping and having it towed home he drove the last 8 mi at speed thinking it would be ok, it wasn't)

I asked him how did he knew and he said when he fixed the hose and replaced the coolant it would quickly overheat. No coolant was leaking out the head gasket, but he did see a lot of bubbles with the radiator cap off as the engine was running. So the head gasket wasn't sealing internally anymore. He knew at that point so he didn't bother checking compression to see what cylinders were low.

Pulled the head off and had it machined flat and that fixed it in his case.
 
Tried to imagine what a warped head would display. Oil is clear, and the coolant is clean. Running great. Got 42 mpg during the 180 mile ride, including the last part without the coolant. She's kinda noisy in the valves and all, but that's nothing new.
As @mgoodrich noted you are probably fine.

A warped head would result in a head gasket failure which displays as:
  1. Coolant or oil leaking out of the engine
  2. Coolant and oil intermixing
  3. Engine burning coolant (white smoke) or oil (blue smoke)
  4. Poor starting / loss of power from gasket failure (compression loss) in-between cylinders
  5. Strong smell of gas in exhaust from unburned fuel being passed to neighboring cylinder
  6. Overheating or erratic / cycling temp gauge due to air getting into the coolant/ leading to inefficient or inconsistent cooling
These engines are tough but it sounds you were extra fortunate with not only your head and head gasket but also the piston rings / cylinder walls not overheating. Not to mention the water pump turning without lubrication. I would never be so lucky.

Keep an eye on the fluids, temp, exhaust and aware of any power changes.

Wayne
 
Sounds like you are ok. As noted, these motors are well built and this is usually the first hose to go. I did not lose total coolant but the same hose broke for me when I pulled into the national rally in Guntersville Lake AL, 800 miles from home. 1" heater hose got me home. I'd replace the other hoses while you are at it.
 
Don't have my C10 any more, so can't go look...
Has anyone tried to mitigate the situation by wrapping that hose wirh protective material?
I'm thinking header wrap, which would insulate the hose from hot ambient air, ans isolate it from radiant heat from the head pi pipes. I can see the head pipes reaching several hundred degrees temperature, and the radiant heat coming off them would be a lot. Heat kills rubber, reducing heat sources might lengthen hose life significantly.
 
Thanks for the response, guys. Think I'm still OK. Was only 45 degF today, but I rode for 50 miles in the afternoon, checking her out. Stopped about every 10 miles and let her idle for 5 minutes. No puddles, steam, smoke, etc. Oil and coolant are both still clean. Thermostat temp ran around 160 degF at speed. Up to 170 degF in traffic. I find that the dash gauge is usually moving quite a bit when riding on cold days, and it was today. Digital temps were pretty steady.

Felt good making it home without the coolant. And reading the comments on warped heads, was happy to be in my own garage, but still worried. Started by rolling her out onto the driveway, removing the radiator cap, and starting her up. As mgoodrich's mechanic friend did. With goggles on. Relieved to not see any bubbles.

Noticed a bit of green coolant on the cylinder 4 coolant log o-ring. Weeping a bit, when cold. Sealing up when hot. Have Murph's o-ring kit for that, and may need to replace them to get it stopped. Will keep an eye on it. If I have to change the o-rings on the header, it will be a good time to swap out the other old hoses, too.

Did have a wire tie on the water pump inlet hose, pulling it away from the exhaust pipe. The old hose just expanded more than the gap, which is now at 1/4 " again with the new hose. With the bike on the side stand, I'm getting better at looking up in there, and seeing clearly the condition and position of the water pump inlet hose.

Never used any kind of header wrap before, but wrapping the hose itself, or even using a higher temp rated hose, does sound interesting. As many times as the inlet hose has failed for C10 riders, some technical improvement there would be good.

Will ride her back up to the farm on Wednesday, if possible. Will bring along a jug of coolant, and an improved selection of tools and backup parts with last week's ride in mind. Glad to be still riding!
 
Don't have my C10 any more, so can't go look...
Has anyone tried to mitigate the situation by wrapping that hose wirh protective material?
I'm thinking header wrap, which would insulate the hose from hot ambient air, ans isolate it from radiant heat from the head pi pipes. I can see the head pipes reaching several hundred degrees temperature, and the radiant heat coming off them would be a lot. Heat kills rubber, reducing heat sources might lengthen hose life significantly.
I built headers for my C-10 with oversized head pipes. The size of them placed the hose a lot closer to the heat.
To combat that I used header wrap, and also added a bit of insulation around the hose itself and installed a metal heat shield over the insulation.
It worked well. No issues with the hose.

But the oversized head pipes turned out to be a mistake.
(Gained a bit of top end power, but lost low end torque)
Working on another header for my current C-10.
On this one I'm building Jim Snyders Contario Header as it's a known good design.
Smaller head pipes so no hose heat problems.


Ride safe, Ted
 
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Been over a month. 600+ miles. Starts instantly. Gets 42 mpg. Running fine, with no warped head issues that I can see.

The front coolant log weeped sporadically at first, but finally was weeping on all four after she cooled down. Replaced the front o-rings, and hoses on the front. No more drips.

Have a piece of silicone rubber heater hose to try on the water pump inlet. Claims to handle the temperature better. Anybody else tried it?
 
This exact thing happened to me over a year ago. I was fueling up and noticed a puddle of coolant forming under my bike. I was able to quickly ride it home seemingly with no damage. Tore the bike down and found the hose behind the exhaust headers had cracked and split open, same as yours. Decided to replace as many things as I could as long as I had the bike torn apart.
 
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