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Timing chain broke
- Thread starter brotheriam6109752
- Start date
One would question why you started a seperate thread, away from the noise thread? Some of the folks following ot may not get the correlation.
You don't seem to have a badly dinged piston. May be ok there. Waa Hoo!
Question - which piston is the below picture I inset? And which one had the broken rocker arm?
Seems a couple of the shots have witness marks of material interference on compression stroke, see the circled areas. My concern would be are there pieces of a broken valve face floating around in there? Anyone who brought their machine to me for repair in this case I would immediately note the head comes off for inspection of the valves.
Some might get lucky here, put a timing chain on it, set valves, do a compression check and as long as good, run it.
I in good faith would not do the above; I think further investigation is warranted.
Also have you identified where that broke-off piece of metal you showed before came from?
Wayne
Seems a couple of the shots have witness marks of material interference on compression stroke, see the circled areas. My concern would be are there pieces of a broken valve face floating around in there? Anyone who brought their machine to me for repair in this case I would immediately note the head comes off for inspection of the valves.
Some might get lucky here, put a timing chain on it, set valves, do a compression check and as long as good, run it.
I in good faith would not do the above; I think further investigation is warranted.
Also have you identified where that broke-off piece of metal you showed before came from?
Wayne
I think;
The scars you are seeing are from the Hydrolock test.
Note that most of the scars are not in the valve recess area where a valve would hit.
Broken piece came from his lower Chain Guide.
Adding a timing chain before a teardown is probably the only way he can check compression.
Ride safe, Ted
The scars you are seeing are from the Hydrolock test.
Note that most of the scars are not in the valve recess area where a valve would hit.
Broken piece came from his lower Chain Guide.
Adding a timing chain before a teardown is probably the only way he can check compression.
Ride safe, Ted
New guy on here. Thread, string or a ravel, I don't quite know what I'm doing. I have a vacuum hose to collect debris from the cylinders. I have the chain, guide set on order. Still looking for a rocker arm. Used preferably.
MARC
MARC
This might be a better option as it has all you would need.
Costs about the same as the rockers I saw in Ebay.
& {Worse case scenario) it would be a complete bolt on head.
Costs about the same as the rockers I saw in Ebay.
& {Worse case scenario) it would be a complete bolt on head.
1997 KAWASAKI CONCOURS 1000 ZG1000A ENGINE TOP END CYLINDER HEAD CAMS VALVES | eBay
We are human, mistakes happen and will always make it right.
www.ebay.com
Excellent find!! I'll order it asap. Thanks for the info. On that.
My man!! I think I only need one set right? Send me a price please! This will go a long way to finding out how bad this is.
Read post
Gonna get them all. I believe in spares
Someone sent me a link to get the entire upper assembly for just $64. I'm going this route because this will give me new valves, cams and rockers. Thank you for the offer.
I shall do so. My measurements may be in inches. Depends if the tape measure has mm on there.
I'm curious about why the chain broke too.
Possibly the chain was the cause here, but it may be a result of something else.
I suspect it does not have an excessive amount of wear.
Possibly the chain was the cause here, but it may be a result of something else.
I suspect it does not have an excessive amount of wear.
Here's the skinny. The tensioner was removed to replace the alternator. I suspect, according to the nice manual I'm using, that it was reinstalled incorrectly. This caused the chain guide to disintegrate. Pieces got between the chain and gears. Snapped the chain. That's what I'm going with. Sound plausible?
That's quite likely. The tensioner is a ratcheting design, and when it's removed (or even loosened), it has to be fully removed, retracted, reinstalled, and then released per the manual procedure. If that procedure wasn't followed, then it's likely the tensioner extended when it was removed, and then was too tight on reinstallation, causing the guide and chain failure.
I think this may be promising for repairs, as it may have resulted in less damage (especially to pistons/valves/head) than a worn-out chain failing at high RPM.
The break happened at around 50 mph. Died instantly.
How's that happen? I know how to kill the spider gears. I proved that as a teenager.
If the engine was in gear, the engine continued to turn until you pulled in the clutch.
So dying instantly wouldn't have prevented possible valve damage.
I'm guessing that after the chain broke, some of the valves were stuck open e'nuff to hit a piston.
If so, hopefully the damage would be limited to only the 1 cylinder.
Looking at your photo's I don't see any big dings on the pistons where the valves would have hit.
So you may be in luck with only 1 cylinder needing a new rocker.
If (after you install a new chain) you have good compression, your definitely in luck.
But if you have bad compression in one of the cylinders, you will have to pull the head to check for bent valves.
Ride safe, Ted
Replacing the entire head to eliminate any "ifs".
Possible to do a leak down if he orientates the cams correctly, but difficult to do until he installs a timing chain.
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I'm back guys. Been super busy. No time for anything on the bike. Got everything. Now I need time to install it.
Found a crazy deal on a 1400 intruder. 80% new condition. $600. You read right. She sits at my house now. Young man who owned it was scared of the power. And he was short. Now I can ride and work on the Connie at a better pace. Still want that Connie
Will the heads to a 2007 fit a 2002 C10? eBay says no.
There was no 2007 model year Concours. 2006 was the last year of the ZG1000-A (Concours 1000, aka C10), and there was a 1-year gap before the ZG1400 (Concours 1400 aka C14) was released as a 2008 model year.
People seem to mis-label the years on these bikes a lot, especially the C10.
Any head from a 1986-2006 C10 is the same, though. The 2008-up C14 is a completely different engine, though, based on the ZX-14, with no lineage from the GPZ900-derived C10 motor.
Also notable, is that Kawasaki used the same basic engine design from the GPZ900 in a lot of other bikes, and while some parts swap, others do not. For instance, the head on a lot of other bikes that used this family of engines did not have the top motor mount bosses for the stressed-member frame design of the C10. I know the GPZ900 shared a similar frame design as the C10, but I don't know if the heads swap directly. In any case, there are thousands more C10 heads out there than GPZ900 ones.
Can you guys point me to the right USED head for this bike? C10 2002 1000
if you search "Concours 1000" or "ZG1000A" cylinder head on ebay, it looks like there are quite a few examples, many under $100. A bit of a risk on knowing condition, but as long as the valves don't show damage, and cams don't appear pitted too bad, your odds should be pretty good.
Any head from 1986 to 2006 is the same. The 1986 model had some issues with soft valves, so if you have a choice, I'd err for one off a newer year.
Any head from 1986 to 2006 is the same. The 1986 model had some issues with soft valves, so if you have a choice, I'd err for one off a newer year.
zg1000a cylinder head for sale | eBay
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One note of caution, however, is that sellers don't always correctly describe or list the parts. I see at least one ZG1200 Voyager head listed as a Concours head. The difference is obvious if you know what you're looking for, though. The Concours head is pretty distinct. Just make it looks right.
Another thing to watch out for is that the original cam caps for the head are included. Cam caps are not mix and match between heads or positions as they are bored as a unit during manufacturing. Each cap is assigned a number to match their specific location on the head they go with.
For example - this head - Ebay Listing (NOT MINE) with no cam caps = Bad - is useless as it doesn't have the cam caps:
I have 2 complete heads available if you are interested.
- 94 C10 with 31,659 miles
- 1990 with 44,500 miles
I personally disassembled both bikes and have the original cam caps, locater dowels and bolts belonging to each head along with all the cylinder head mounting bolts and cam chain retainer.
For example - this head - Ebay Listing (NOT MINE) with no cam caps = Bad - is useless as it doesn't have the cam caps:
I have 2 complete heads available if you are interested.
- 94 C10 with 31,659 miles
- 1990 with 44,500 miles
I personally disassembled both bikes and have the original cam caps, locater dowels and bolts belonging to each head along with all the cylinder head mounting bolts and cam chain retainer.
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Very good point, Stasch! Just like cylinder cases and rods, the cam bores are line-bored, so they have to stay mated where and in the orientation when they were line-bored.
Stasch
Price on C10 head?
This would fit - to point mentioned earlier you really need to make certain you are not receiving some mix / match of parts, not by someone purposely trying to fraud you but just unaware.
I see above @Stasch has two complete heads. Personally, I would stick within the group if feasible - we love our machines!
Wayne