Alright.
I re-assembled the clutch. Bled the line. Pull the clutch lever and no movement.
I re-assembled the clutch. Bled the line. Pull the clutch lever and no movement.
Not on the C10.I was reading an older post on here about bleeding the clutch fluid. And a bleeder on the master cylinder as well as the slave cylinder was referred to. Is there a bleeder valve on the m/c for the clutch?
After hours of re bleeding the line. The i finally have movement in the spring plate when I pull the lever! Just ordered my new clutch cover gasket. Once it arrives and I have everything put back together, I will let everyone know the status.I am going to back up a little. Remove the slave cylinder. Compress it with a c clamp. When you compress it do it with the reservoir cover removed. Does fluid come back into the reservoir? Don't let it overflow. Next pull the clutch lever. Do you get a solid lever or does it pull all the way into the grip? Repeat until you get a solid lever and the c clamp is held tight by the slave cylinder pushing out on it. If you never get a solid lever, the master is bypassing fluid or air in the system. You can also check for leaks at the slave cylinder. All this is to prove that the hydraulic system is good and able to push on the clutch release rod. No money spent until you find the problem part.
Woo hooo!!After hours of re bleeding the line. The i finally have movement in the spring plate when I pull the lever! Just ordered my new clutch cover gasket. Once it arrives and I have everything put back together, I will let everyone know the status.
Do I need to use gasket sealer as well as the gasket? If so. Do I use it on the cover and housing?
I spread a thin layer of normal grease with a small brush on both sides of the jointDo I need to use gasket sealer as well as the gasket? If so. Do I use it on the cover and housing?
I spread a thin layer of normal grease with a small brush on both sides of the joint
Thank you. I have since cleaned this up. When I get home, I will send new pictures. Please let me know if you still see any issues that need addressed.don’t forget to remove the old seal in red, the white traces in the oil, there must be water mixed in blue, and in yellow, it may be an optical effect but it seems that the stem has twisted, it’s not normal
That is so crazy!So my buddy called in a favor and had problems with his Vulcan 1500. Turns out he had no clutch and it would die every time he put it in gear. Stuck a boroscope in and no clutch plate movement. We bled the piss out of it and nothing. Got a mightyvac vacuum bleeder and bled it and bled it. Moved the handlebars and hit the lever to test it and we got 3 big air bubbles and like magic the clutch worked. Don't know how after all that bleeding the air was in there, but it was. Made me think of you the whole time.
Makes me wonder talking about all the bleeding issues on the clutch side, if the same 'trick' would hold true thats used on yhe front brake lever.
Squeezing it and holding it squozed (sp) overnight, to allow any air in line to travel up and out of the line...???
It's called gravity bleedingMakes me wonder talking about all the bleeding issues on the clutch side, if the same 'trick' would hold true thats used on yhe front brake lever.
Squeezing it and holding it squozed (sp) overnight, to allow any air in line to travel up and out of the line...???
In a nutshell, what was the problem and final cure? Was this all about air in the system or a combination of things?Well Gentlemen,
She is finally up and running!
I would like to thank everyone here for there guidance and input. I wouldn’t have been able to get her back on the road with out your help.
I’m thinking a combo of dirty master and slave cylinder and air in the lines.In a nutshell, what was the problem and final cure? Was this all about air in the system or a combination of things?
Thank you sir! I will put this process in motion tomorrow.I’ve had similar “issues” when rebuilding calipers/master cylinders several years ago, and most recently when rebuilding a dual piston front caliper and remounting it on the rear wheel using a new Spiegler line. This was using Jim Snyder’s mounting scheme he posted up several years ago.
In both instances, I tied off the pedal/lever in their full pressurized positions overnight to allow the air to work itself out of their respective systems. Like ya’ll, the “joy” was short-lived as the brake actions soon returned to their wussy feel, and the tie down procedure was repeated.
I eventually found what seemed to permanently correct the issue, for me anyway. This was to immediately bleed the brakes the old-fashioned way when the lever action was nice and “tight” after a night of their lever being locked down. With a line on the bleeder screw nipple feeding a catch container (to avoid a mess), pump the lever until it assumes a solid feel, and while holding it firm in that position, crack the bleeder and allow the fluid to escape into the line while maintaining an ongoing steady braking pressure on the lever until it reached its end of travel. Hold it there and immediately close off the bleeder screw. Repeat several times insuring that you maintain an adequate level of fluid in your master cylinder reservoir. Occasionally, I could see additional air burbling through the line with the fluid.
In the case of the recent rear brake change, it maintained a solid feel after the first night of locking down the pedal and bleeding, but I repeated the bleeding process after one more night of lockdown just to make sure all the air was out.
It’s been a week since the last bleeding, and all seems to be good - the brakes remain solid.
Thank you sir! I will put this process in motion tomorrow.
It has firmed it up a bit, I would say about 50% of the slack has been removed, but she is still a little mushy. I did see a couple good sized bubbles exit the bleeder, beside the usual tiny air leak bubbles from around the bleeder. Also did the rear brake.And ?????
It has firmed it up a bit, I would say about 50% of the slack has been removed, but she is still a little mushy. I did see a couple good sized bubbles exit the bleeder, beside the usual tiny air leak bubbles from around the bleeder. Also did the rear brake.