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C-14 Rear Brake

U

UP

Bicycle
I'm not too impressed with the C-14 rear break. At 3700 miles it feels wooden and requires a heavy weighted stomp to slow the bike down. When I got a hole poked in my oil filter a few weeks back the rear break got soaked in oil. I used break cleaner and hosed it out as best I could. Perhaps the pads got glazed and I need new ones. Any of you have complaints? UP
 
Once they get oiled they are trash. Even if you washed them clean with solvent they still have oil in them and the solvent could compromise the brake pads themselves (they might come apart). If you keep using them the oil will burn down into the pads and also your rotor. I have had similar experience, and I replaced the pads after cleaning the calipers thoroughly and also washing the disc down with alcohol and used a qtip to clean the oil out of the holes (on my KZ1000 - it had holes). I also used steel wool to buff the disc to get any surface oil that was burned into the surface. Even though my rear brake pads last 25k miles because they seldom get used, you gotta have them. David in Jax COG# 7898 NE FL AAD & COG Vendor www.dreamjobresumes.com preparing resumes for COG members and friends I ride a KAWASAKI ZZR1200 - Euro http://www.motorbikestoday.com/reviews/Articles/ZZR1200.htm US http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/roadtests/2002_kawasaki_zzr1200/index.html
 
+1 on what Dave said. The brake pads AND disk need to be cleaned in order to get the oil off. The pads should be easy to clean; put em in a pan and spray em down with Brakeclean. BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO GET THE BRAKECLEAN ON PAINTED SURFACES. T
 
The brakes on my C14 work great, far better than the brakes on my C10. The rear brake is designed to have less stopping power to prevent the rear tire from locking up which is why there are only 2 piston calipers instead of the 4 piston calipers up front. If your rear break pads or rotor are contaminated with engine oil then you may need to remove the caliper and pads and clean all of the parts individually to remove the oil contamination. Kevin COG145
 
Sometimes you can clean brake pads, it just depends on how badly soaked they got. If the oil soaked into the pad material, you may have to replace them. In the past, I have had good luck with brake cleaner and a toothbrush in a pan. Though you need to test it on the toothbrush first and make sure the cleaner doesn't melt the bristles. You will most certainly have to remove the pads to clean them though, and you should also clean the rotor real well. Denatured alcohol also works well if you don't have brake cleaner, and is less harmful to painted surfaces or plastics than brake cleaner. Wear gloves if you use brake cleaner and try not to breath in the fumes any more than you have to.
 
i can't say i've had this problem with my bikes but i have used a torch to heat the brake shoes on cars to boil the oil out. heat and sand with some coarse sand paper. heat, sand, heat, sand, heat, sand until you think you've got it all out. HTH, tom
 
Good feedback from all of you and I appreciate it very much. I think my best option is to replace the pads. They did get pretty gooked up with oil. After hosing down the whole rear assembly with break cleaner it is better but not best! Contrary to popular opinion, I believe there are benefits in being able to lock the rear wheel on demand. Back to Murph's I suppose. Thanks guys! UP
 
Hey Fred. Do you have detailed instructions on front and rear break pad replacement on your site? I'm not that skilled with tools but I can monkey see monkey do pretty well. UP
 
I'd skip on all the noxious fumes and chance for a fire and just pay the $30 at Cycle Gear. They probably have them in stock. David in Jax COG# 7898 NE FL AAD & COG Vendor www.dreamjobresumes.com preparing resumes for COG members and friends I ride a KAWASAKI ZZR1200 - Euro http://www.motorbikestoday.com/reviews/Articles/ZZR1200.htm US http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/roadtests/2002_kawasaki_zzr1200/index.html
 
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