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Clunking in the front end

ghabel

ghabel

Guest
Guest
This one has me puzzled. I'm getting a feel in the bars of clunking when I go over bumps (even small road irregularities). Last weekend I tightened up the steering head bearing and torqued the nut on top (29 ft lbs per Chalkdust). No change. Last night I checked the upper and lower triple T's and tightened them. Also loosened and retightened the front axle. Still the same feel. It feels like there is a small gap somewhere and the bumps make it go top/bottom. Over the winter I did replace the front springs with Sonics. I can't imagine anything is loose in there though. Suggestions gurus? Greg H from Mass, Connie Droppers Anonymous Awards Dude COG# 7010,a Tracey CDA 120 99 Connie "Herrin Christabelle", 05 Ninja 250
 
Upper fairing mount? Wheel bearings? -- Steve Smith, #3184 COG Northeast Area Director (somewhere in south central CT) If you're not living on the edge, you're taking up too much space.
 
Greg, ck yer fender too. I hadta r/r the rivets long time ago. 01 Conc, Mijami Floriduh Over the Pond 06: http://tinyurl.com/2vk9o2 route map: http://tinyurl.com/4p7pmd
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Greg,,can you get the noise from just compressing the front end while sitting with the front brakes on?? I would go with Paulie's idea of a loose front fender,,mine was and it make a hell of a lot of noise over small bumps and road cracks and you could feel it in the bars. CT AAD COG #7011-A 2003 Concours-Mary Ann 1995 Honda Nighthawk 750 wifes
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Greg, this will require two people to check, but put the bike on the centerstand, have your wife or someone sit on the bike back as far as they can on the seat and still hold on to the bars. You need to get the front wheel off the ground. Then grab the forks down low and try to wiggle them front to rear and back and forth if you have any movement, its the steering head bearings. You need to loosen the triple tree bolts before you tighten the top one. I've had the same clunk and both times it was the steering head bearings. Lemme know what you find. Ducati-The thinking mans V-Twin
 
Just rode home and noticed I can feel it in the foot pegs as well. Hmmmm.... Broken motor mount? What's that feel like? Greg H from Mass, Connie Droppers Anonymous Awards Dude COG# 7010,a Tracey CDA 120 99 Connie "Herrin Christabelle", 05 Ninja 250
 
I had a clunking noise in my front end as well.As this bike was new to me I decided to rebuild the forks. When I disassembled them I found sonic, or another type of straight rate spring,spacers and Race Tech cartridge emulators inside.The previous owner spent some money on this set up. The piston's were drilled with additional holes as per Race Tech's instructions. The spring rate was unknown to me so I decided to replace them. I removed the cartridge emulators and spacers and put in progressive springs. New bushings,seals,dust caps,and 15 weight Bel Ray fork oil. I greased and re tightened the steering head bearing while I had everything apart. The results are no more clunking,more travel,and in my opinion much better handling. I know some will disagree but this set up works great for me.
 
From what I've seen from Concours Owners, the best thing about the bike is that you can go a long way in customizing it to your personal preference. There likely would be people who disagree with your setup, but you'd find just as many that agree. I haven't tackled my front forks yet, but it's next on my list, then phasers and photon torpedoes.
 
Here is your source for Photon Torpedos... http://www.cnsales.net/photontorpedopage.htm Ducati-The thinking mans V-Twin
 
Here's my source for them. They're kinda pricey so I'm hoping one will pop up on e-bay. I've already ordered the RAM mount though. <img src = "http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3014/2824805183_58cba7485a.jpg">
 
Greg, have you discovered and conquered the gremlin responsible for your clunking yet? I'm interested to know what it turns out to be.
 
Brett, I'm hoping to tear into it this coming weekend. Thanks to the members here I have a bunch of stuff to check out. Greg H from Mass, Connie Droppers Anonymous Awards Dude COG# 7010,a Tracey CDA 120 99 Connie "Herrin Christabelle", 05 Ninja 250
 
My money is on it still being somewhat loose steering head bearings. I have experienced this several times on three different Connies and each time it turned out to be the stem bearings. More than once I felt I had them tight enough to have out all the slack. Au contraire mon frere, each time I had still not quite taken out enough slack. I certainly hope it is something that simple and you'll have her back in the pink in no time.
 
Rev, I hope you are right, cuz that's an easy fix. I have yet to make it too tight and then back off. Maybe I'll try that. Greg H from Mass, Connie Droppers Anonymous Awards Dude COG# 7010,a Tracey CDA 120 99 Connie "Herrin Christabelle", 05 Ninja 250
 
I just did this, how do you know if you've taken out enough slack? I was comfortable that I had, but now I'm not so sure. ::sigh::
 
Brett, The Best of Chalkdust says - till there is no binding. Greg H from Mass, Connie Droppers Anonymous Awards Dude COG# 7010,a Tracey CDA 120 99 Connie "Herrin Christabelle", 05 Ninja 250
 
Ok, here's what I got so far. I tightened up the steering head bearing. Then when I was playing around with the front wheel I decided to jiggle it back and forth. I noticed and felt a sound but it did the same thing on our other bike (doesn't have that issue). So, I got on the bike on the center stand and jiggled the handlebars back and forth. There it was - the feeling and the sound. Rattle, rattle and I could feel it in the bars. My wife and I narrowed it down to near the front axle. I pulled off the front calipers to eliminate that. So I think I'm down to either a loose front axle or front wheel bearings. What do bad front wheel bearing sound and feel like? Thanks for the continued support. Greg H from Mass, Connie Droppers Anonymous Awards Dude COG# 7010,a Tracey CDA 120 99 Connie "Herrin Christabelle", 05 Ninja 250
 
That'd be yer bearings. How many mi on yers? My OEMs got loose ~25k IIRC. Good uns frum Murf or bearing shop will go much further. 01 Conc, Mijami Floriduh Over the Pond 06: http://tinyurl.com/2vk9o2 route map: http://tinyurl.com/4p7pmd
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Paulie, About 25,600 miles. I'm hoping to get a 2nd hands-on opinion on Thrusday from my brother-in-law Pat before we head off to Indy for MotoGP. The replacement procedure doesn't look too bad; especially with the right tools (will order). Greg H from Mass, Connie Droppers Anonymous Awards Dude COG# 7010,a Tracey CDA 120 99 Connie "Herrin Christabelle", 05 Ninja 250
 
What do bad front wheel bearing sound and feel like?
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Sometimes you can hear/feel a grinding sensation while riding when bearings are bad.. sometimes not. With the tire off the ground try moving the wheel side to side and feel for play. The method I like best requires the wheel to be off the bike. Stick a finger in the bearing and move it around. If it feels choppy or rough, it is bad. BTW - I generally change wheel bearings every other tire change whether they need them or not. Better to change them while the wheel is already off, then to have to pull them again later. -- Steve Smith, #3184 COG Northeast Area Director (somewhere in south central CT) If you're not living on the edge, you're taking up too much space.
 
SSmith (and all) I've read lots of wheel bearing threads the last couple years, and many experienced Connie folks like yourself, have said as you did, change every other tire change. But many other, well respected Connie experts have said that if you have good ones, there's no need for this. Just re-lube a little at tire changes. So, is there no consensous on this? Maybe it's not that big a deal either way (as long as you don't have a bearing problem). Thanks -
 
Greg, you can't re-lube a sealed bearing. Mine are sealed on both sides. Ducati-The thinking mans V-Twin
 
Pat took a look at it today and we both think it's bearings. Now off to Murph to order some goodies! Thanks everyone for their feedback. Greg H from Mass, Connie Droppers Anonymous Awards Dude COG# 7010,a Tracey CDA 120 99 Connie "Herrin Christabelle", 05 Ninja 250
 
Hey Greg H, I got my bearings from the local NAPA auto parts store. Its a common bearing. The bearing number is #6203. Just make sure you get the ones sealed on both sides. Save time and you can do the repair ASAP. Ducati-The thinking mans V-Twin
 
How hard is it to do this? I'm at that 25k mark as well. :-/
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Brett, according to Clymers it looks pretty straight forward; especially with the right tools. I'll post once I've completed the job (hopefully within a week); otherwise I'll go crazy! Greg H from Mass, Connie Droppers Anonymous Awards Dude COG# 7010,a Tracey CDA 120 99 Connie "Herrin Christabelle", 05 Ninja 250
 
"BTW - I generally change wheel bearings every other tire change whether they need them or not. Better to change them while the wheel is already off, then to have to pull them again later." The only drawback this approach is that bearings can last 10 miles or 100K miles, it's a crap shoot. If there's no play, I don't fix them. FWIW Greg, this is from Rich MOB on replacing the bearings. HMMMM, right wheel bearing trouble.....well, as I have said before, the service manuals, BOTH of them are wrong. If you look at the configuration of the front hub it is easier to see that by popping out the speedo side first, there is a better sideways leverage area to get the spacer to move over so's you can catch the lip on that bearings inner race. Now for the tool... The small punch is not the way to go, the bigger the punch diameter, the more edge contact with the bearing, Probable the best toll would be an axle with the threaded end cut off cleanly, and not chamfered. The tool GBYII let me borrow is nothing more than a handle that was cut off of a defective 1/2" socket wrench, right at the head, and the sharp edge of that sawcut works perfectly to catch the mini sized contact area on the bearing. I actually took my cutoff tool to an old tire iron (LUG WRENCH), and cut the bent part off leaving me with a foot long chisel, but you don't use the chisel end against the bearing, you use the cutoff end of the bar. Slip it down while levering it sidways till you feel it begin to catch on the bearing lip, then give it a couple good whacks sideways to push the spacer tube over a tad, then hammer away on the bearing. Repeat on the side opposite the speedo. When I assemble them I do the side oppsite the speedo first, then the speedo side, and apply never seize to the bearing outer diameter.
 
Zorlac, Thanks for the advice and MOB quote. Greg H from Mass, Connie Droppers Anonymous Awards Dude COG# 7010,a Tracey CDA 120 99 Connie "Herrin Christabelle", 05 Ninja 250
 
Oh, crappola - now what?!!! I removed the wheel, took off the retainer springs to get access to the bearings. Then, I used the K&L special Bearing Removal tool to set the bearing inner to the socket of the tool. Then started trying to pound out the bearing by striking the metal shaft of the tool. I hear a tink tink. The inner wheel in the bearing cracked. I keep pounding away and eventually all the bearing guts pour out. BUT, the outer part of the bearing (ring) is still on tight to the wheel. What next - how do I get that out? I so dismayed - this special tool was suppose to make it easy. Ugh!!!! Greg H from Mass, Connie Droppers Anonymous Awards Dude COG# 7010,a Tracey CDA 120 99 Connie "Herrin Christabelle", 05 Ninja 250
 
Time to crank up the welder anad weld a heavy washer to the race in a few spots. Then pound it out using the washer. Alternative to that is to cut the race in two pieces... ths is more difficult IMHO. Personally, the easiest way I know of to remove the wheel bearings in the first place is to slide a piece of ucker rod or all thread throught the wheel and weld the end to the race. Dirve it out, cut it of with the chop saw and do the other one. About 3-5 minutes to remove both bearings. No one else (except maybe that nutty Zorlac dude) seems to think this is a good method, but it works for me.
 
I think Rev has a good idea there. Also, if you let the race cool cmpletely before trying to drive it out, It will shrink a little and may free up some. 1990 Aint she a pretty Tomato (the bike ofcourse) wedshots albums http://community.webshots.com/user/sawfiler64/albums/most-recent
 
Well let me just say that I now have a lot of confidence about endeavoring to do this myself. Greg's next post better have the theme of 'Well I thought I was screwed but now everything's daisies and butterflies!'. How about some pics Greg so we of no experience can see what you're talking about.
 
Pictures .... Before <a href="http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2770329730053849446GiMWXN"><img src="http://thumb6.webshots.net/t/72/72/3/29/73/2770329730053849446GiMWXN_th.jpg" alt="LeftSideBearingFront"></a> Stuck race <a href="http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2848347950053849446seNfGt"><img src="http://thumb6.webshots.net/t/71/71/3/47/95/2848347950053849446seNfGt_th.jpg" alt="LeftSideBearingFrontStuckRace"></a> Greg H from Mass, Connie Droppers Anonymous Awards Dude COG# 7010,a Tracey CDA 120 99 Connie "Herrin Christabelle", 05 Ninja 250
 
Victory! Both sides are now out. The left side came out after some penetrating oil and whacking it out from the inside. When you go to set the left side I don't see a Stop (just a little tiny edge - is that what stops the bearing from going in too far or does it stop when it hits the spacer? The right hand side has an actual Stop in it. The penetrating oil seemed to do the trick. Interestingly though as soon as I got the 2nd one out I heard that tink-tink again to see the inner race crack. Possibly I am pounding the tool too hard after setting. The second one came out fairly easily. Next couple of days I have to pick up a socket or something similar to set the bearings into the wheel with. The snap ring tool I got from Lowels (Channel Lock brand - MADE IN USA!) worked well to get the snap rings out before getting to the bearings. About $20. Greg H from Mass, Connie Droppers Anonymous Awards Dude COG# 7010,a Tracey CDA 120 99 Connie "Herrin Christabelle", 05 Ninja 250
 
Time to Celebrate Good Times! Eureka! I put the bearings in the freezer overnight, cleaned up the wheel, smeared some anti-seeze where they sit in the wheel and put them in (old bearings had obvious corrosion). Right side first (deeper and has the stop). Put the spacer in. Then the left side - just down to where the snap ring would go in. I used a large socket 1 1/16th (Craftsman - guaranteed for life!) and a hammer to knock them in. It took some good careful whacks. All back together and no more clunking!!! Thanks for everyones help along the way; including my wife who gave me the extra set of eyes for confidence. Greg H from Mass, Connie Droppers Anonymous Awards Dude COG# 7010,a Tracey CDA 120 99 Connie "Herrin Christabelle", 05 Ninja 250
 
Congrats Greg! InCOGnito had the same issue when I bought her. In fact the beating only had 3 or 4 balls on one side so there was about 1/2" of play in the wheel when I drove her back from the PO. and the rear pads were down to the metal. You can imagine I kept the speed below 70mph LoL Uncle Bob was kind enough to build a good weld inside the race for me to knock the sucker out as like you I could not get enough edge to drift one side out. CP Colin Prior Cogmos Committee Chairman Lake Forest Park WA COG#7767
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Greg, almost the exact same thing happened to me when my from bearings chunked; the inner race came out no prob but the outer one was stuck tight. Ended up taking the wheel to a shop where they cut it out for me. New bearing went in really tight as well, I'm wondering if my wheel was slightly out of spec on that side...??? Steve K. '02 Concours COG# 6550 AMA# 965469 'No matter where you go, there you are...'
 
Glad to hear you got her going your way finally. Good job. It does sound like you had ome serious corrosion going on in there.
 
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