Emulators and/or new springs

[Kd50]

I was wondering what gives the best bang for the buck on the Connie, emulators or progressive/race tech springs?
Is it truly worth doing both?
Thanks folks!!!
Kirk

 

[Cap'n Bob]

Both.  I went with Race Tech springs and emulators. You would not believe the difference it made on the bike. 

 

[Steve in sunny Fla]

they do two different things.

  IMO, the emulators are needed to get rid of the brake dive, but still have a compliant "street" ride. Sure you can go with heavier springs or higher oil level, but then it's a harsh ride. On my bike, I have about 5" of stock springs cut off with emulators, works great. I'm kinda heavy, so if you're around 200 - 225, all you'll need is 4" cut from the stockers. HTH, steve

 

[gfinca]

I would do both, too, if possible, but if I could only do one, I would do springs.  The stock C10 fork is way undersprung, so getting stiffer springs is the first priority, IMO.

 

[Mettler1]

  I'm kinda heavy, 

:rotflmao: :rotflmao: :rotflmao: :rotflmao:
   

 

[danodemotoman]

So as being a heavier rider at 270#  :-\
Last I heard from racetech they told me to go with four holes in the emulators for a touring 'comfort ride'.
Steve what did you go with on the emulator holes? Comes with 2 holes I recall.
I am doing changes to the new to me '05 including transferring mod parts from the '01.

they do two different things.

  IMO, the emulators are needed to get rid of the brake dive, but still have a compliant "street" ride. Sure you can go with heavier springs or higher oil level, but then it's a harsh ride. On my bike, I have about 5" of stock springs cut off with emulators, works great. I'm kinda heavy, so if you're around 200 - 225, all you'll need is 4" cut from the stockers. HTH, steve

 

[turbojoe78]

Dan, as I am adding emulators now I had received some info from SISF and what he told me to do was go with 4 holes (drill out the other 2) and use the blue springs with 2 turns of preload.  This is what he said he has his set up like and say's it works great for him.

GF-in-CA, I would have to disagree, if I could only afford one or the other I would go with the emulators and cut the stock springs down like SISF suggested.  I did the cut spring mode before (4" off stock springs) and it worked well at stiffening up the front end and helping with the brake dive for almost no money.  The emulators help fine tune it and modernize it from there. JMHO.

 

[gfinca]

Dan, as I am adding emulators now I had received some info from SISF and what he told me to do was go with 4 holes (drill out the other 2) and use the blue springs with 2 turns of preload.  This is what he said he has his set up like and say's it works great for him.

GF-in-CA, I would have to disagree, if I could only afford one or the other I would go with the emulators and cut the stock springs down like SISF suggested.  I did the cut spring mode before (4" off stock springs) and it worked well at stiffening up the front end and helping with the brake dive for almost no money.  The emulators help fine tune it and modernize it from there. JMHO.

Whether you cut down the stock springs or buy new ones, you're still ending up with stiffer springs.  IMO, it is not worth the effort and expense to install the emulators without first making the springs stiffer, cut down stockers or otherwise.

 

[danodemotoman]

I didn't read that spacers are being used to replace the stock spring cut spring length?
BTW; my option: I do have the racetech springs/emulators still in the 'old' Conk to use.
I want touring/comfort suspension but not the soft/mushy/dive like stock.
Thanks.

 

[Steve in sunny Fla]

Dan, as I am adding emulators now I had received some info from SISF and what he told me to do was go with 4 holes (drill out the other 2) and use the blue springs with 2 turns of preload.  This is what he said he has his set up like and say's it works great for him.

GF-in-CA, I would have to disagree, if I could only afford one or the other I would go with the emulators and cut the stock springs down like SISF suggested.  I did the cut spring mode before (4" off stock springs) and it worked well at stiffening up the front end and helping with the brake dive for almost no money.  The emulators help fine tune it and modernize it from there. JMHO.

  what he said  Steve

 

[Steve in sunny Fla]

I didn't read that spacers are being used to replace the stock spring cut spring length?
BTW; my option: I do have the racetech springs/emulators still in the 'old' Conk to use.
I want touring/comfort suspension but not the soft/mushy/dive like stock.
Thanks.

  you need to cut a piece of pvc the length of the spring you removed to keep the preload. Put a 1.25" washer between the spring and pvc.We're setting up a front end for Canadian Steve at my wrench session on mar 10, and he was riding my bike to confirm that he wanted to do the front end as I did just yesterday. After riding it he remarked that when going over broken pavement and smaller potholes he "didn't feel anything" that's what I was tuning for - a stable but compliant front end. GF knows I'm not a suspension guy, but IMO a street setup should be much more conpliant than a firm race setup because of the road conditions of real world riding. Steve

 

[danodemotoman]

Sounds like it is just what I want.  )
Thanks Steve!

 

[GKreamer]

they do two different things.

  IMO, the emulators are needed to get rid of the brake dive, but still have a compliant "street" ride. Sure you can go with heavier springs or higher oil level, but then it's a harsh ride. On my bike, I have about 5" of stock springs cut off with emulators, works great. I'm kinda heavy, so if you're around 200 - 225, all you'll need is 4" cut from the stockers. HTH, steve

Found emulators on Amazon!  Race Tech FEGV S3801.  With me being right around 300#is cutting 5"sufficient or would I need to remove more?  Is 15W oil ok?

I know this is an old thread, but has exactly what I'm looking for!  That'll teach me to search before posting a new thread!