Fastener (axle) Torque Values

[RTERRY]

Anyone have a list of fastener torque values and willing to share?

Thanks

 

[Cap'n Bob]

I take it your talking about the plastic fasteners for the body screws and such? If so, I just make them snug, hand tight. I've never had a problem yet. Just don't leave them loose or too tight that you strip them!

 

[joer53]

Anyone have a list of fastener torque values and willing to share?

Thanks

The service manual has a chart with torque values for larger bolts.

 

[RTERRY]

Need to remove front and rear for new tires, but don't have service manuel yet. don't want to pull them till I know what to retorque to.

thanks

 

[Cap'n Bob]

This should be what your looking for!


1 Front Axle Clamp Bolts - ---------------------------15    ft/lb *AL*
2 Front Axle Nut ---------------------------------------93.7 ft/lb
3 Front Tire Pressure Measurement Sensor Bolt----40  in/lb
4 Rear Axle Nut-----------------------------------------93.7 ft/lb
5 Rear Tire Pressure Measurement Sensor Bolt-----40  in/lb

*AL:* Tighten the two clamp bolts alternately two time to ensure even tightening.

 

[Coolsurlasix]

With all due respect to Cap'n Bob and the seniors in this forum, torque value = force * length, for example 97 ft.lb not 97 ft/lb. The longer the wrench, the higher the torque for the same effort, right? 

 

[professorkonk]

^ Cool,
Are you suggesting a calibrated torque wrench with an 10" handle will deliver a different force at a given setting than a calibrated torque wrench with, say, a 14" handle? If I have 2 wrenches of different lengths, each set for 40 in.lbs., will one deliver more/less "tightening" than the other?

 

[Cap'n Bob]

With all due respect to Cap'n Bob and the seniors in this forum, torque value = force * length, for example 97 ft.lb not 97 ft/lb. The longer the wrench, the gigher the torque for the same effort, right? 

It's OK. I personally don't use a torque wrench when changing tires. Never have in many years. And still managed to not have problems with the wheels! Just not too tight, not too loose!  :

 

[ramrider]

Need to remove front and rear for new tires, but don't have service manuel yet. don't want to pull them till I know what to retorque to.

thanks

Capn Bob gave you the numbers  but I suggest you buy the factory manual.  Vs a bmw manual, you don't need to go to factory training. The kawasaki manual is so well written it will make you will feel like a real expert doing any maintenance.  It is the best dollar value you will spend to keep your 1400gtr the bike you like so much

 

[Cap'n Bob]

Need to remove front and rear for new tires, but don't have service manuel yet. don't want to pull them till I know what to retorque to.

thanks

Capn Bob gave you the numbers  but I suggest you buy the factory manual.  Vs a bmw manual, you don't need to go to factory training. The kawasaki manual is so well written it will make you will feel like a real expert doing any maintenance.  It is the best dollar value you will spend to keep your 1400gtr the bike you like so much

I totally agree. It's a wise investment!

 

[Coolsurlasix]

^ Cool,
Are you suggesting a calibrated torque wrench with an 10" handle will deliver a different force at a given setting than a calibrated torque wrench with, say, a 14" handle? If I have 2 wrenches of different lengths, each set for 40 in.lbs., will one deliver more/less "tightening" than the other?

Hi ProfessorKonk,

No. I am just trying to say that Torque = Force X Length, not Force / Length. The longer the arm, the higher the torque on a regular wrench. If you use a torque wrench and two different-length extensions, the wrench will always trigger for the same value, only the force applied will be different. The longer the extension, the smaller the effort for a given torque value, and vice-versa on odd days.

In your example, if you have a distance of 40" between the nut (to be torqued, not yours) and your palm, you need only to apply 1 lb of force to create the 40 in.lb torque (40*1). If the distance is only 20", you would need to apply 2 lb to obtain the same 40 in.lb torque (20*2). Agree ?

 

[AftonJay1]

Since we're talking torque numbers and tire changing.  Can anyone provide the torque numbers for the calipers front and rear?

Thanks in advance.

 

[MAN OF BLUES]

^ Cool,
Are you suggesting a calibrated torque wrench with an 10" handle will deliver a different force at a given setting than a calibrated torque wrench with, say, a 14" handle? If I have 2 wrenches of different lengths, each set for 40 in.lbs., will one deliver more/less "tightening" than the other?

Hi ProfessorKonk,

No. I am just trying to say that Torque = Force X Length, not Force / Length. The longer the arm, the higher the torque on a regular wrench. If you use a torque wrench and two different-length extensions, the wrench will always trigger for the same value, only the force applied will be different. The longer the extension, the smaller the effort for a given torque value, and vice-versa on odd days.

In your example, if you have a distance of 40" between the nut (to be torqued, not yours) and your palm, you need only to apply 1 lb of force to create the 40 in.lb torque (40*1). If the distance is only 20", you would need to apply 2 lb to obtain the same 40 in.lb torque (20*2). Agree ?

I have absolutly no idea what you are trying to say here, other than your explanations are pretty screwed up.

A TORQUE WRENCH not matter what the length of it's handle is, is calibrated for the actual fulcrum existing between the head, and handle you hold.....every different handle length wrench is calibrated for it's handle length...... but that doesn't even matter unless you want to pull the handle, with a scale on it, and are using said scale to measure the torque....which is redundant.
The spring settings are what the torque wrench relates to, not force applied on the handle at all....
And of course it goes without need for explanation that a longer handled torque wrench requires less physical effort on the part of the operator to achieve the "click"...that is moot.
:-[
As far as using "EXTENSIONS" snapped onto the drive end, between the head, and the actual socket, it makes absolutly NO difference how long that extension is, unless it is soooooo long it flexes (not too common), so adding a 3", 6", or any combo of them, make no difference in the torque at the bolt....... :

 

[Killer Kawasaki]

I have the Clymer manual, but it does not specify any torque settings for buttoning up the exhaust system. What should the header-to-the-engine bolts be torqued to? Thanx.

 

[BJ_CT]

This is a shameless plug for Fred's videos.  Get 'em and use 'em.  He's already made the dumb mistakes and doesn't include them in the vids.  When I pull something apart for the first time, I watch the appropriate video first.  Haven't watched everything yet but everything I have watched includes torque values.  ;D  http://www.angelridevideos.com/