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Header studs

krumgrinder

krumgrinder

Street Cruiser
OK, so I'm finally getting around to getting my ceramic-coated headers on (pretty much had to, as the crossover tube completely rusted off at the left joint.) In removing the old ones, I found five of the nuts so rusted onto the studs that I ended up backing the studs out of the cylinder head. I had ordered new nuts for the studs for the job, but didn't think about getting studs! So I'm going to check the local dealers tomorrow, or order a whole new set of them. My question is this- given that this happened after 40K miles (on an '02) of all-weather, all-year riding, what is the best way to prevent the new ones from rusting/corroding again? I may never need to go in there again, but I just don't like the thought of that happening. Steve K. '02 Concours COG# 6550 AMA# 965469 'No matter where you go, there you are...'
 
Jeez, did I actually just stump the panel??? :quest: :( Steve K. '02 Concours COG# 6550 AMA# 965469 'No matter where you go, there you are...'
 
Steve, the only thing that comes to mind would be to coat the exposed threads with and anti-seize compound before installing the nuts. That should cut the corrosion. Only thing I can think of. Eddie 2005 Concours 1969 Triumph Bonneville AMA# 686667 COG# 7073 CDA# 0136 http://picasaweb.google.com/Eddie753
 
Exhaust studs and nuts are difficult to impossible to coat or protect due to the amount of heat they deal with. I would not recommend anti-seize on the studs. I think you have an unusual situation as I have over 118K on mine with no issues. Just replace them as they are cheap and it is so much better and easier using clean new studs/nuts. Let us know how the ceramic coating works out for you. BTW Do you garage or park the bike outside when not in use? AKA "2linby" That's 2-lin-by folks! Northwest Area Director COG #5539 AMA #927779 IBA #15034 TEAM OREGON MC Instructor http://community.webshots.com/user/2linby http://tinyurl.com/njas8 (IBA BunBurner Gold Trip) http://tinyurl.com/lwelx (Alaska trip)
 
Thanks for the feedback guys. I was coming to the same conclusion because of the constant heat-cycling and high temps; hoping the ceramic coating helps reduce that. Bob, she lives outside all year, albeit covered. I'm pretty sure it's the winter riding that has caused this as well as the crossover tube deterioration. That, and heat reduction, are the major reasons I went for the ceramic coating- should protect the headers from the winter road salt/brine/grime for the forseeable future. Noticed the studs came out of the cylinder block with that red-thread stuff on them; anyone know what that is and where I can get some for the new studs? Steve K. '02 Concours COG# 6550 AMA# 965469 'No matter where you go, there you are...'
 
<b> Noticed the studs came out of the cylinder block with that red-thread stuff on them; anyone know what that is and where I can get some for the new studs? </b> It's just Red Loctite. It is high temp stuff. You should be able to get it almost any auto parts place / Lowe's / Homedepot etc... or a local fastener supply house. Make sure it is dry and set before you fire up the beast. http://www.loctiteproducts.com/products/detail.asp?catid=10&subid=48&plid=154 AKA "2linby" That's 2-lin-by folks! Northwest Area Director COG #5539 AMA #927779 IBA #15034 TEAM OREGON MC Instructor http://community.webshots.com/user/2linby http://tinyurl.com/njas8 (IBA BunBurner Gold Trip) http://tinyurl.com/lwelx (Alaska trip)
 
to solve the rust problem, visit our friends at McMaster-Carr.... and go stainless steel.... ;p http://www.mcmaster.com/
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Rich Riczinger COG 5977 Tech Editor,The Concourier
 
Bob, new studs are the way to go, but I suggested anti-seize on the part outside of the head to keep the nuts from locking onto the stud. We used anti-seize on bolts and nuts in the exhaust section of large gas turbines (70 megawatts) to enable us to disassemble them with less hassle. In this area ,temps exceeded 960 deg F. So it does work! Not trying to argue, but just my two cents from experience. Eddie 2005 Concours 1969 Triumph Bonneville AMA# 686667 COG# 7073 CDA# 0136 http://picasaweb.google.com/Eddie753
 
Again, thanks for the suggestions and discussion guys! Hope to have the studs by Mon or Tues at the latest. Got an outside shot at tomorrow, but not likely... Steve K. '02 Concours COG# 6550 AMA# 965469 'No matter where you go, there you are...'
 
<b> In this area ,temps exceeded 960 deg F. So it does work! Not trying to argue, but just my two cents from experience. </b> Damn! I guess you are right! I never thought A/S was engineered to these extremes and here is the dope right from the source. Thanks for setting me straight! http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/lubricants/specialty_lubricants/Permatex_Anti-Seize_Lubricant_a.htm Permatex
 
When I've used loctite, I usually clean the holes out with a tap and then spray them with cheap carb cleaner and blown them out with compressed air first. Works pretty good.
 
I think tight with a lock washer is good enough. I think if you red loctite them you may have another problem down the road. If you were to strip one of the studs tightening or somthing you`ll be sorry if that locktite wont let the stud turn.
 
Hey Ruff, haven't seen you in a dog's age! Hope all is cool w/you. OK, so it sounds like red loctite on the threads for the cylinder head, s/s nuts and anti-seize on the external threads. Thanks for the help guys! Four of my new studs came in, the other four are still on the way from another warehouse. So much for the '3-5 days' promise from my local dealer... :mad: Was trying to give them a little business, but guess I should've just gone w/Ayers or BB, both said 7-10 days and were a bit cheaper. Been two weeks now... :( Steve K. '02 Concours COG# 6550 AMA# 965469 'No matter where you go, there you are...'
 
She lives!!!! And runs better than ever! :p After nearly three long weeks of mostly waiting, and working, the headers are on, hoses replaced and fresh gaskets, brackets and bolts everywhere you look! ;p (Well, almost everywhere.) Incredible what a difference, especially when you add in the recent valve adjustment, carb synch, final drive and engine oil changes. I swear, she is running better right now than when I bought her 5 yrs ago w/only 4k on her. While she was down waiting on parts I also picked up a Garmin Quest2 gps and got the powered cradle and RAM hardware mounted on the instrument shroud, along with two more heat-trollers (dual set for socks/gloves) added to the dash. Going to do some PlastiFix work on my right mid-fairing panel (from the Memorial Day incident) and then get all the plastic back on, FINALLY. Sure was great to finally get back on two wheels! :) Steve K. '02 Concours COG# 6550 AMA# 965469 'No matter where you go, there you are...'
 
I know its all subjective unless you do a controlled test but tell us if you can tell any real heat difference with the coating. ---------------------------------- I will answer any question. It is up to you to figure out if I should have.
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<p align="left"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/20211686@N05/">My Photos<br
 
I'm really looking forward to seeing how much it helps. Hard to tell right now as I still have the mid/lower plastic all off, and we just had our first cool snap of the fall- 42
 
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