New here with a couple questions...

[Vic_Man_CA]

Hello! I just picked up my first conny. She is an 86 with 62k miles. Runs well, but there are a few problems. -The alternator is not putting out many volts. I dont know if its the Alternator itself or the regulator or rectifier. Either way, the battery goes dead after about 100 miles of riding. Any ideas!? What Volt reading should I be getting and which of the two wires should i test? -The fuel petcock leaks even though the engine is not running. Fuel overflows into the cylinder(#1). So far I like this bike, if only I can stop smelling fuel in my garage! Even when the petcock is in the off position, it still leaks fuel when the tank is near full. I guess it needs a rebuild. I bought this bike for $750 from the 2nd owner. It came with a clean title, current registration, and COMPLETE service history. Everyhting from valve adjustments to oil changes are documented. I replaced the oil, coolant, brake fluid, and did my best to service the bike. Check out my bike. It has potential i think....

 

[ghabel]

Nice looking bike and great deal. The fact that fuel is getting into cylinder #1, sounds like you need to rebuild or replace the petcock and rebuild or at least try to flush the carbs (something is preventing the float bowl needle from closing). Not sure on the voltage issue. Welcome to cog-online! Greg H from Mass, Connie Droppers Anonymous Awards Dude COG# 7010,a Tracey CDA 120 99 Connie "Herrin Christabelle", 05 Ninja 250

 

[smithr]

Hi and welcome, Nice bike, looks like a Concours. If the fuel system is stock then there is no off position on the petcock. If it is leaking then you really need to fix it or you could end up with a garage full of gas or a bike full of gas. On the battery thing I would be sure you know you have a good battery. ie have it tested if you don't know how to tell. Then with the bike running and reved up to about 3-4k what voltage do you read on the battery? Once again the battery has to be good and fully charged. If your getting something over 14 volts then chances are your charging is fine. My guess is your battery is dead. How are you getting the bike started for the ride of ~100 miles before it will not restart? ---------------------------------- I will answer any question. It is up to you to figure out if I should have.

<p align="left"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/20211686@N05/">My Photos<br

 

[Brett0769]

+1 on Bob's check the battery theory. It's probably not maintenance free and could need some distilled water. If it's been dry for a while though, it's probably dead. I've noticed dying batteries have weird and differing effects, often hiding the true cau

 

[colinp386]

If your battery goes dead after 100 miles of riding you have a faulty charging circuit, as the alternator if running correctly will keep the bike running just fine once its started even if the battery is soft. The CFO's 86 had the same issue last year. The Clymer manual has a good write up on how to test the alternator, if you don't have one, they a great investment. There are 3 components to the alternator, the winding, diodes and regulator. All can be tested either with the engine running or passively with the engine off. If you have a good multimeter, enthusiasum and time get the book and follow the directions. If not, its probably simpler to remove it and take it to a auto electrician or knowledgeable friend to test for you. They are pretty pricey to by the whole thing. I was lucky that Uncle Bob sold me one for $50.00 The winding in mine burnt out. Make sure you fix the petcock leak and float issue, else you run the risk of getting a hydrolock and bending a rod. Check inside the tank and see if its rusty. If it is (due to build up of moisture from not keeping the tank full etc.) I suggest you POR 15 the inside otherwise and carb or petcock work will be fruitless. A common issue is crud inside the tank clogs the float valve the petcock fails or is left on prime and gas floods into the engine creating the hydro-lock. Check also deforming of the in-tank sock filter seal that allows crud to bypass the filter. I know its a lot to take in, but the good news is you got good deal at $750! CP Colin Prior Cogmos Committee Chairman Lake Forest Park WA COG#7767

 

[Vic_Man_CA]

Great, thank you! Well, regarding the petcock. I removed the vacuum operated valve because the fuel stayed on all the time when it was disconnected. No biggie. My attention turns to the float valve. I am going to remove the bowl and inspect for debris. While I am in there, I will install a fuel filter. I removed the alternator and will go to my salvage yard to match one up. I hope that its the problem and not in the wiring harness. I didnt get a chance to test it before removal.

 

[Vic_Man_CA]

Thanks.UPDATE. I inspected the valve. Its sealing well. Installed fuel filter. Should be good to go. I removed the alternator, it has a loose wire in the rotor winding. Needs replacement, I will get another one tomorrow. I hope a loose wire in the alternator can be the root of my problem. Thanks.

 

[colinp386]

Hey Vic-Man Just checking here, when you say you checked the float valve, you did mean valves plural right? To do this properly you really need to remove the whole carb-rack from the bike, and while you're at it remove the slow running mixture screw jet blanking covers. And give if you have confidence clean the all the jets etc. You will find good tips in Chalkdust and past editions of the Concourier on how to do this "fun" task. Cheers CP Colin Prior Cogmos Committee Chairman Lake Forest Park WA COG#7767

 

[Vic_Man_CA]

No, I just checked the one valve with easy access. Besides, it was the only one that was leaking. Works fine now. I need to know if this alternator will fit my conny. My Alternator is shot. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ZX1100-ZX-1100-ZX11-Alternator_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1205Q7c39Q3a1Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c240Q3a1318QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem180296751182QQitemZ180296751182 Does anyone have an alternator for sale?

 

[colinp386]

I'm pretty sure the ZX11 Alternator works fine or is the same as the ZG1000, as its essentially the same bottom end. Man of Blues or Uncle Bob (if he has come over from the old forum) will know for sure. The other way to check is to look at the part numbers on Ma K's website where they have the full parts listing of all the bikes under the Owner Info > Parts Diagrams section. Cheers Colin Colin Prior Cogmos Committee Chairman Lake Forest Park WA COG#7767

 

[Lake Cle Elum]

Since you've gotten all this good expert advise on your problems, I'll throw one thing out you did not ask: The '86, being the 1st year was know to have problems with soft valves/valve seats. I bought an '86 brand new in 1988, treated it kindly and did all the required service on time. By 65,000 miles, I had no valve adjustment left as the adjustment screws were backed all the way out for most of the 16 valves. Even if I pulled the head myself, I was look at about $20 per valve to replace bad valves and then about $20 per seat to replace or grind. This was w/o even getting into looking at the guides. Do the math and you'll see what you could be facing. Maybe over the winter, pull the valve cover, check your clearances and also see how much adjustment you have left.....Just an idea...

 

[Vic_Man_CA]

I JUST got in from the garage. I did a valve adjustment. All valves were withing spec except for four. I adjusted the four tappets, and upon refitting the valve conver, I damaged the coolant pipe net to the carburetors. The thermostat housing was in the way, and I tried forcing it aside a bit to fit the valve cover through. It ovaled the tube where it meets the therm. housing. So now the valves are adjusted, but coolant seeps out of the connector where the thermostat housing meets the coolant pipe. I will pull it out tomorrow and try to reshape the pipe. Are there any sealants I can use on the seal to make a better seal? Ideas? I HATE press fit coolant tubes. My bike is in a million pieces right now.

 

[smithr]

Getting the cover out is a pain but never had an issue with that pipe. Did you try to take it out to the left or right? I have always rotated it out to the left away from the Tstat. ---------------------------------- I will answer any question. It is up to you to figure out if I should have.

<p align="left"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/20211686@N05/">My Photos<br

 

[Vic_Man_CA]

Bob, Firstly, cool wheelie pics. I actually tried to remove it from the left over the cams, but it didnt seem like it wanted to come out that way. Being my first time pulling the Concours' cover, I didnt know. I feel like an idiot. I need to seal this pipe that has been ovaled slightly. Then, I need to seal it from the outside. I may just use some MSR Quickaluminum. It dries in an hour and it dries rock hard. I will try anything before I spend $100 on a new one. Damn.

 

[smithr]

Not to make it worse but there is a link on here to three valve adjust write ups and video. There is a lot of help under the MAINTENANCE LINKS section here in the member area. It is at the top of the gray list to the left when in the members area. ---------------------------------- I will answer any question. It is up to you to figure out if I should have.

<p align="left"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/20211686@N05/">My Photos<br

 

[colinp386]

Re:

I feel like an idiot.

Don't! there is a lot to learn here and these things aren't always that obvious. The rocker cover comes out best on the LHS of the bike, some coem out easier than others and typically you need to remove the upper faring screw and have a helper gently pull the fairing away while you joggle the cover out. A word to the wise.. If you remove the thermostat to remove the crimp in the pipe, I think you will find you need to remove the carb rack and the coolant manifold. If you do make sure you replace all the o-rings as they WILL leak if you don't. The manifold o-rings can be found at your local Napa store. The thermostat o-ring I'm not so sure about. As the pipe you bent is pretty soft, I may be inclined to try re-forming it insitu. Good luck. CP. Colin Prior Cogmos Committee Chairman Lake Forest Park WA COG#7767

 

[Vic_Man_CA]

Thank you for your help. Update. I did not after all, bend the manifold. The seals were leaking. I went to the dealer and bought the therm housing o-ring, and the o ring where the housing meets manifold. These two o rings were 10$! Now, I need some seals for the manifold where they fit into the head. What size should I buy and from where? Do they need to be special hi temp o rings or something? Thanks again.

 

[colinp386]

It's a plain old O-ring. Remember any o-ring in a water system will not go much over 100Deg C The trick is to go to Ma K's Parts list under the Owner Info menu, here you will find the part number and description: Part Number 92055-1282 Description: RING-O,16MM You can get them from Ma K for $2.00 or so, but as they probably don't have them in stock I just picked up a range of o-rings around this size and find one that fits best that rolls comfortably over the manifold pipe.The thickness of the o-ring is important too thick the pipe will not fit, to thin it will leak. make sure you carefully remove any rust on the pipe with 400 grit emery or scotch bright. if its very pitted re-spray if your fussy. When you assemble the pipe should be pretty snug, lubricate with some antifreeze or a very, very fine smear of oil. The thermostat o-ring leaking is pretty common when taking the rocker cover off if you stress it too hard.. Often a sharp tap on the top with a socket extn. will fix it Cheers Colin Prior Cogmos Committee Chairman Lake Forest Park WA COG#7767