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Oil change paranoia?

Changed the oil in my new to me 2004 Honda Silverwing.  The procedure was pretty simple overall but the oil filter was on tighter then tight.  I managed to strip 2 oil filter sockets and finely got it off by jamming a long screw driver into it.  Luckily the 24mm Aluminum oil plug was not super tight and came off with no drama.  Oil came out looking really good.  Previous owner changed it earlier this year and it only had about 200 miles on it but I wanted to change it for the warm and fuzzy feeling and start fresh with my own maintenance logs. 

As smooth as it went I had some issues on start up that concern me.  Possibly mostly because I am one of those paranoid types.  I used Rotella T-6 5W-40 synthetic and filled it to the top of the fill marks on the dip stick.  I added an extra gulp of oil for the filter witch I did not pre-fill.  I never do that on any bike and never really had a problem and it tends to be messy.  I started the motor as normal and what happened next is making me freak out a bit.  The oil pressure light stayed on for about 2 seconds then blinked once for another second then went out completely.  When the oil pressure light was lit up I started to hear a pretty bad knock from the motor.  However it went away completely once the oil pressure light was out.  I revved the motor a bit and let it idle for about 30 seconds.  All seemed well and then I shut it off and let it sit for a few minutes.  I checked the oil on the dip stick and other then one little drop on the bottom of the dip stick it was dry.  Dang that took a lot of oil to fill the filter.  It must have some oil passage ways as well that needed to be primed as well.  So I reinserted the funnel and it took another 4 or 5 gulps (witch is really not much actually..maybe a 1/4 quart or slightly more) to bring it back to the full line.  I went for a short test ride and all seems well.  Except the motor seemed slightly more noisy but I think its just in my head.  Now I am all freaked out that the knocking sound I heard was from the lack of oil at start up and something ain't right.  Again I am a paranoid person and everything is likely fine but for a second or two things sounded bad. 

Next time I change the oil I plan to add an extra few gulps more then before to cover the filter and passage ways.  On most of my other bikes if you fill to the full line then start and run it will drop to half on the sight glass or dipstick and just a few extra gulps of oil bring it back up to the top.  However the Silverwing will show extremely low.  Hopefully I did not damage the motor in anyway.  I really don't think the sound I heard was from any sort of oil starvation issue as these parts have a coating of oil on them to protect at start up.  If the oil light stayed on the whole time then I might have a problem but 2 or 3 seconds after an oil change is normal for most bikes.  Its also not uncommon to have to add oil after the 1st start up as passage ways fill up.  If I pre-filled the motor to the top of the dip stick before start that should be enough oil to safely run the motor in the short time it takes to prime the filter and passage ways.

Still...that paranoia runs deep  :eek:     
 
What you are describing sounds completely normal and common to me. Running an engine at idle (or very slightly above) without oil pressure will result in the noises you hear. Different engines have different characteristics, some are noisier than others. What you do not want to do is rev it up during that time, you may indeed risk some damage.

But 2-3 seconds is nothing. Some older engines with more clearance between the running parts can take much longer than that.

Pre-filling the oil filter will solve this if you are still worried. I do this on all of my engines with spin-ons unless it is nearly impossible to get the threads started before the oil leaks out (tight horizontal mounts). I have an angle mount on my Toyota V-8 (about 45 degrees) and I just have to sneak up on it and have a good aim. No leaks so far.

Is 5W-40 recommended? Typically, 10W-40 is the recommended oil viscosity for Japanese motorcycles. This could have some effect on establishing oil pressure quicker.

Dan
 
longhaul747 said:
Changed the oil in my new to me 2004 Honda Silverwing.  The procedure was pretty simple overall but the oil filter was on tighter then tight.  I managed to strip 2 oil filter sockets and finely got it off by jamming a long screw driver into it.  Luckily the 24mm Aluminum oil plug was not super tight and came off with no drama.  Oil came out looking really good.  Previous owner changed it earlier this year and it only had about 200 miles on it but I wanted to change it for the warm and fuzzy feeling and start fresh with my own maintenance logs. 

As smooth as it went I had some issues on start up that concern me.  Possibly mostly because I am one of those paranoid types.  I used Rotella T-6 5W-40 synthetic and filled it to the top of the fill marks on the dip stick.  I added an extra gulp of oil for the filter witch I did not pre-fill.  I never do that on any bike and never really had a problem and it tends to be messy.  I started the motor as normal and what happened next is making me freak out a bit.  The oil pressure light stayed on for about 2 seconds then blinked once for another second then went out completely.  When the oil pressure light was lit up I started to hear a pretty bad knock from the motor.  However it went away completely once the oil pressure light was out.  I revved the motor a bit and let it idle for about 30 seconds.  All seemed well and then I shut it off and let it sit for a few minutes.  I checked the oil on the dip stick and other then one little drop on the bottom of the dip stick it was dry.  Dang that took a lot of oil to fill the filter.  It must have some oil passage ways as well that needed to be primed as well.  So I reinserted the funnel and it took another 4 or 5 gulps (witch is really not much actually..maybe a 1/4 quart or slightly more) to bring it back to the full line.  I went for a short test ride and all seems well.  Except the motor seemed slightly more noisy but I think its just in my head.  Now I am all freaked out that the knocking sound I heard was from the lack of oil at start up and something ain't right.  Again I am a paranoid person and everything is likely fine but for a second or two things sounded bad. 

Next time I change the oil I plan to add an extra few gulps more then before to cover the filter and passage ways.  On most of my other bikes if you fill to the full line then start and run it will drop to half on the sight glass or dipstick and just a few extra gulps of oil bring it back up to the top.  However the Silverwing will show extremely low.  Hopefully I did not damage the motor in anyway.  I really don't think the sound I heard was from any sort of oil starvation issue as these parts have a coating of oil on them to protect at start up.  If the oil light stayed on the whole time then I might have a problem but 2 or 3 seconds after an oil change is normal for most bikes.  Its also not uncommon to have to add oil after the 1st start up as passage ways fill up.  If I pre-filled the motor to the top of the dip stick before start that should be enough oil to safely run the motor in the short time it takes to prime the filter and passage ways.

Still...that paranoia runs deep  :eek:   

Between "HONDA" and "ROTELLA" you have not a worry in the world
bigthumb.gif
 
Thanks for the information...

Been riding it around all weekend all seems fine.  Only had a dribble out of the oil drain plug that required me to make another 1/8 of a turn.  It does not use your traditional oil drain plug with a crush washer but an aluminum 24mm bolt with a rubber washer.  You have to be careful not to get this drain plug to tight or you will have a big problem.  Just tight enough so it does not leak is all you need.  Looks like on this bike that is finger tight then about 1/2 a turn with your wrench.  Next time I will replace the rubber washer for good measure. 

Yeah Rotella Synthetic 5W-40 in the crankcase.  Been running it in everything for a long time and I believe its one of the best oils period.  As far as I can tell the 5W start up weight is a non issue.  If anything it just flows faster when cold.  Supposedly its a 40W oil like any other once warm.  I have read theories that 5W-40 oils are lighter overall then a 10W-40 but this was from people who don't know anything more then me.  Enough people using Rotella Synthetic 5W-40 without issue and in far worse conditions then I do that if it was a big problem we would have heard about it by now.  It still freaks me out every once in a while using a 5W oil but again I don't think its cause for concern. 

I might try pre-filling the filter next time on this bike.  However the filter is horizontally mounted in fairly tight quarters and you are forced to perform some hand yoga maneuvers around some hoses.  So in reality it might just end up spilling out all over the place.  Might be best to not do it.  Maybe pre soak the paper elements in side might help some but as far as filling it full of oil will just make a mess.  Will have to study that next time the oil gets changed.

 
 



 
I know what you mean, I was too paranoid to run the extra 400mi & decided to change my Connie's oil (3qts of 0W-40) at 7600mi today.
 
Zorlac said:
I know what you mean, I was too paranoid to run the extra 400mi & decided to change my Connie's oil (3qts of 0W-40) at 7600mi today.

That'll definitely void your warranty for sure!    :rotflmao: :rotflmao: :rotflmao: :rotflmao: :rotflmao:
 
I pre oil my filters by putting in only enough oil to absorb in the filter paper. This gives it a head start and is not messy.

If you rode the bike and it isn't blowed up, don't worry about it. 
 
I also pre-fill my oil filters. I rarely get more than a little drizzle as I screw the filter on. I used to lose more oil but with practice came perfection on the technique... I have the paranoia bad as well. With as long as a service life as you will reasonably expect on a motorcycle I doubt it will ever be an issue though. I've known many car mechanics and not a single one of them pre-fills the oil filter.

I bring this up because I'm speculating all car mechanics are like this and I see an awful high number of japanese branded cars running well beyond 100k or 200k miles. Food for thought?
 
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