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Oil light

Ron Moss

Moped
My 2006 Concours, when braking hard will make the oil light come on. I test my front brake often to maintain that feel that is needed in a panic situation. Is this doing any long term harm to the engine and if it is how do I fix this problem. I've had other bikes do this but the oil light blinked briefly then went out. The Concours oil light will stay on longer than I think is safe. Yes the oil level is OK. Does the engine really loose pressure or is this a problem with the sensor? Any expert advice? I may be old but I still ride young.
 
This seems to happen when you are low on oil or if you put in 3 quarts of oil, instead of 3 litres when doing a change. (We're going to see a bunch of people come on here and argue that 3 quarts works fine for them and that's all you need, but nowhere does any manual say 3 quarts, always 3 litres). The site glass is notoriously inaccurate. So, if you are using that as your reference for "the oil level is OK", then you may actually be a little low.
 
I have not seen this issue. At what level in the sight glass is your oil? I would think it should be half way up at the very least. I keep mine almost to the top. When you brake hard what RPM is showing. Normal idle RPM should be close to 1100. I US quart is so close to a liter it is not worth mentioning the difference. With a new oil filter 3 quarts or 3 liters is no where near enough oil. I believe next to the oil fill plug it says 3.7L. Have a look and tell me what it says please.
 
That 3.7 liters on the oil filler neck is misleading. Check the owner's manual, page 82: 2.7 L (2.9 US qt) when filter is not removed, 3.0 L (3.2 US qt) when filter is removed and 3.7 L (3.9 US qt) when engine is completely dry.
 
I have heard of this before on the forums. Trouble is I can not remember what we learned. :( Maybe someone will. ---------------------------------- South Central Area Director Email scad@cog-online.org
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I think its a simple matter of applying the brakes hard enough for the oil to transfer forward enough to cause the internal oil pickup to see a loss of oil. Therefore the pressure drop and the light comes on. Isnt this why they make pans with baffles in them. And why race teams often use dry sump systems. Myself I never saw this before with proper oil level, until I put on the 6 pot calipers. Now its easier even with proper level. I agree with the above about oil qty. Proper levels will make it better. But may not cure the problem. If you can brake hard enough I dont think the .2 Qts difference betweeen putting in 3Q versus 3L is going to make that much difference. 2003 Concours, 47K COG #6953 IBA 28004 http://mysite.verizon.net/slybones/Concours/connieMain.htm
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1 US gallon is equal to 3.79L so 4 qts will do fine w/filter. Just did mine........ Dave Muzzey St. Charles, IL COG#7957 '01 Connie
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I would reread Raycad comments about oil level. I too believe 3.7L is when engine is completely dry. Level for a normal change with filter is 3.0L or 3.2qts. NOT 4.0 qts. 2003 Concours, 47K COG #6953 IBA 28004 http://mysite.verizon.net/slybones/Concours/connieMain.htm
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I know this well, because I have 3 gallon oil jugs in my garage with a little less than a quart in them each from previous oil changes. I should have enough to do one with the leftovers after the next one. :)
 
My 06 does this every time I brake real hard no matter what the level. It stays on till you rev it a little.
 
OK Chaps; This is pretty important... The oil light coming on while breaking is not good! The connie has a habit of pooling oil in the top of the engine when breaking heavily, any starvation to the bottom end will quickly overheat and damage the bottom end journals. I found this out when I rebuilt InCOGnito that a worn #3 (I think) bottom end journal. If it just happens once or twice most likely all will be fine. But if your riding style is such that you do periods of long breaking from high speed and light is coming on frequently you will likely have an issue. The fix is simple, I fill the oil to the top of the sight glass not the middle, the extra oil is not enough to cause the oil to vent into the air-box or even close for that matter. But it is enough to fill up the front of the rocker area where the pooling occurs and to ensure the oil pump keeps pumping oil and not air! Hope that does not scare y'all too much :) Colin Prior Cogmos Administrator Lake Forest Park WA COG#7767 AMA#1081764
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Colin is correct. I know I have to use 3.5 liters to 4 liters to get my sight glass almost to the top. I have 320mm four pot Nissin brakes and have never seen my oil light come on. My friend has the same setup and he has never seen the oil light come on during braking. We both fill the sight glass almost to the top. 3 liters is not enough. Try it and tells us if it fixed your problem
 
Colin is correct. I know I have to use 3.5 liters to 4 liters to get my sight glass almost to the top. I have 320mm four pot Nissin brakes and have never seen my oil light come on. My friend has the same setup and he has never seen the oil light come on during braking. We both fill the sight glass almost to the top. 3 liters is not enough. Try it and tells us if it fixed your problem I did fill the oil to the top of the sight glass and will give it a test tomorrow.
 
OK, I took the advice and filled the engine oil to the top of the sight glass and set the preload up more on the front forks. Didn't work ! On a firm, but not panic stop the oil light came on and wouldn't go off until I killed the engine and let it set for 20 to 30 seconds.Now what? any ideas?
 
You mean it doesnt go back off as soon as you let off the brakes and the oil settles? 2003 Concours, 47K COG #6953 IBA 28004 http://mysite.verizon.net/slybones/Concours/connieMain.htm
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No it does not. If I let it run it takes 15-20 seconds. I've only let it go that long once. I get a little nerved and shut it off.
 
I use 1 gallon to fill to the middle of the sight glass, but I have no oil cooler, the Bergmen Spin-on Filter Adapter, and a T-25 turbo with pan mods. Even with my radial caliper brakes I cannot starve Connie for oil anymore... but the pan mods are the ticket (can't do it without on a stocker though). A person could build a small Accusump to eliminate journal starvation and to pre-oil for cold starts.
 
If I let it run it takes 15-20 seconds.
That sounds way, way too long, I suspect you may have another problem. The Oil pickup is clipped onto one an oil distribution tube. It could be that the pickup is not properly seated so its leaking air until the oil lever gets real high. Or the oil pickup filter (wire mesh) is clogged with debris. I think I have pictures of this on my webshots page. You can also look in the Clymer. I'm not 100% certain but I believe the oil return from the top end is via the cam chain tunnel its possible that somehow the pooling at the top end is being slowed-down considerably once its stopped. I would be tempted to stop real fast and have someone ready with a flash light to look at the sight glass to look and see the oil level. If the level is really low once you have stopped and if the level remains low until the light turns off on you know its a pooling issue. If the light is still on when the level gets too the middle of the sight glass perhaps its a leak or blockage in the pickup. Colin Prior Cogmos Administrator Lake Forest Park WA COG#7767 AMA#1081764
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