• Can't post after logging to the forum for the first time... Try Again - If you can't post in the forum, sign out of both the membership site and the forum and log in again. Make sure your COG membership is active and your browser allow cookies. If you still can't post, contact the COG IT guy at IT@Concours.org.
  • IF YOU GET 404 ERROR: This may be due to using a link in a post from prior to the web migration. Content was brought over from the old forum as is, but the links may be in error. If the link contains "cog-online.org" it is an old link and will not work.

Oil over filled at the 600 mile check up.

Bourne2Ride

Bourne2Ride

Mini Bike
I was doing a TCLOCKS before riding 125 miles home yesterday and noticed (for the first time) that the oil level in the crank window was way above full. I went back and read the manual (I keep it in the glove box), and it said the oil should be between the lower and upper indents next to the window. in essence it should be half way up the "Y" shape of the window. After my 600 mile service I guess the dealer over filled it.
I've driven the bike without any issues; but was wondering if I should drain the oil. Is there any harm happening to the crank or seals? I see no leaks or smell any oil. The bike is clean, and she rode home without issues the whole 125 miles. I was wondering if I should take it back to the service at the dealer and make them correct it.
 
If it's totally covering the view glass, I would drain a little out. Use a clean pan. Then If you let out a little too much, you can just pour some back in to the right level. At least you know the oil filters primed now!
 
Open the filler cap and insert a hose connected to a MityVac and suck out the excess.

I've found that it is really easy to overfill this bike, and as little a cup too much can make a big difference in the sight glass. If you try to use the sight glass as a guide when you fill it, this will usually result in an incorrect fill level.

Normally, the proper way to fill it is to pour in the exact amount specified in the manual, but I've even had problems using this method, as the manual calls for 4.7 US quarts when the filter is changed, and I've found that leaves it overfull by the sight glass. 4.5 quarts usually puts it right where it should be. My suspicion is that when you drain it, there is oil trapped in the head or VVT valve and not draining out, so 4.7 quarts results in it being a bit overfull.
 
I dont see where it would hurt being slightly over filled and I didnt think you were supposed to check it on the centerstand. It will read full on the stand but over full level.
 
use measuring instruments.....not glugs. please.

to the O/P, seeing as you have no idea HOW MUCH it was overfilled, trying to adjust "while on the road" might be bad, seeing as you have as much chance of pulling too much out as you do of getting it spot on.

as far as oil fill qty goes:
after draining ALL the old oil, and replacing the filter (new, dry, empty), pour in 4 quarts + 17 ounces.... that will suffice, and place the level correctly where it should be in the glass. (with the bike LEVEL and upright, i.e. with the bike on the center stand AND a 2 x 4 under the front tire to make it "level")
I took the time to do this laborious and scientific approach when I bought my bike, on my first oil change....fill, start, let sit, fill a little more, repeat, till I got the correct value. Measuring each additition.  I have done this quantitiy 10 times to my bike since purchase, and everytime it comes out correct. I never even look at the window anymore after doing this, because I KNOW  it has the correct amount of oil there.

pick up a graduated cough syrup bottle from your neighborhood pharmacist, get one that hold 10 ounces, with graduations noted on the side....this helps when measuring correctly, instead of GLUGS.....
ride safe.
 
I'm just wondering, what could happen if you had a few ounces to much?
How would having to much oil affect the engine?
I've read in the past claims of blown seals, gaskets, and stuff like that but I fail to understand how that would happen.

Inquiring mind would like to know.
 
I'm not too sure about blowing out seals.  That seems a little unlikely for a little overfill as the case is vented.  I could be wrong on that one.  I think the real issue would be if there is enough oil that the crank it pushing through the oil on revolution.  Not sure exactly what damage that would cause but the added stresses of that couldn't be good.  Again, I could be way off base with this one as well.
 
Thank you Mr MAN OF BLUES for your detailed instruction. You just saved me numerous hassles during my first oil change.

Gracias!
 
PatM said:
I'm just wondering, what could happen if you had a few ounces to much?
How would having to much oil affect the engine?
I've read in the past claims of blown seals, gaskets, and stuff like that but I fail to understand how that would happen.

Inquiring mind would like to know.
Click to expand...

verdict is still out on this one, seeing as we have a bunch of new, well ridden machines currently.
I don't think a couple oz's will be too detrimental, but don't quote me....

I can say that historically on the C10's, that it didn't take too much over fill to cause seal leakage on the waterpump oil seal, but then many of those bikes had sat for years, and the design of the bikes sump allowed this to occur. It also caused leaks on other "old" seals, i.e shift shaft, and backlash adjuster but that shouldn't be a problem on the c14.
Time will tell....
 
PatM said:
I'm just wondering, what could happen if you had a few ounces to much?
How would having to much oil affect the engine?
I've read in the past claims of blown seals, gaskets, and stuff like that but I fail to understand how that would happen.

Inquiring mind would like to know.
Click to expand...

Too much oil in the crankcase can cause the oil to foam or froth, and foamy oil will not lubricate or flow properly. You really should have the oil level within the marks in the sight glass window, and if it is above, I'd highly recommend removing some.

I think you'll also find that after you change the oil, you really need to ride the bike at least 10 miles, and get the oil up to full temp, and circulated all through the transmission and head and then park the bike on the centerstand and let it sit for 15-20 minutes and let it drain back into the crankcase, and then check it with the oil still hot. If you simply fill it with oil and then idle the engine, I think you'll find that not to be as accurate and the level will change some after you've ridden it and parked it.
 
Thanks for the wealth of information. I haven't ridden the bike since my last post, and I'm going to drain and replace the oil and filter myself this weekend (couldn't hurt to do it early). I'm going to use Man of Blues' technique as it seems plausible he's done the research already and has figured out what she needs.

Again,
Thanks everyone COGers Rock!
 
remember, if you are doing this on the center stand, stick a 2 x 4 under the front tire for verification on fill level when you are done, then once you are satisfied with the level, go ride, and foget all about this stuff, and repeat at the next oil change interval... Happy motoring, ride safe
 
Why? Although I understand your thinking on this. It only tilts the oil slightly towards the rear of the engine as compared to normally slightly forward, when being sitting on the center stand! Don't waste your time with a 2X4. It really does little or nothing to help you with your oil level. Besides, the difference is so little, it's not worth bothering with anyway!
If you really feel the need to have the oil level as exact as possible. Put a equal size board (probably a 1X) under both tires to have the bike ballance equally on the center stand! (only kidding)  :))
You probably have 2 inches or so with either front or rear off the ground on the center stand. You probably will have a little bit if air under the rear tire with a 2x4 under the front. But like I said the actual effect in the window is minimal at best. And now the oil will favor the rear of the motor, rather than the front. So it's not nessasary. And I seriously doubt that any of the manufacturers would ever instruct you to do this when checking the oil level.
What I'm getting at here is just put her on the center stand and change your oil. It's not rocket science and exact oil levels are not a critical thing. Besides the 2x4 won't make much if any real visible difference anyway!  ;)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top