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Paperweight

jmacn316843

Guest
Guest
Good morning folks,

I have a problem and I am hoping the collective knowledge of the group will help me transform my Concours from its current state of "paperweight" back into the motorcycler I love so dearly.

This yesterday I needed to clean/organize my garage so I started Gwendolyn and pulled her out to give me some added space. I had no issues starting al all as she has a brand-new (less than a week old) battery.

I parked her in my driveway and went about my day. Several hours later I found I needed something from the store and decided to take her for a spin, but that was when I discovered that she was absolutely dead as a door nail; that is to say that when I tried to start her and pressed the key there was/is nothing. No click, no dash illumination, nothing except for a red light that flashes about every 10 seconds on the upper left of the instrument cluster.

I checked the battery - full of juice - I replaced the fob battery, still nothing.

I am beside myself, can't figure this out. Any wisdom the group can provide would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Joe
 
First of all, you cannot name a beast "Gwendolyn" and not expect some attitude.

Try to start it using the immobilizer portion of the fob. If it still won't let you turn the stove knob key, check the battery grounds. If they check out, you need a battery.

Steve
 
Steve - Gwendolyn is legendary - think back to King Arthur..

Beyond that, the battery is literally NEW, like 8 days old - Also: New battery in fob, battery terminals cleaned/tightened, negative ground to frame cleaned and tightened, and I feel like I have beaten the key knob half to death - nada. The kickstand being up and the bike being in neutral seems pointless if I can't even get the knob to "wake up" like it should.
 
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If its not the battery or corrosion on the grounds then its probably the micro switch just to the left and under the rubber, surrounding the ignition switch. You'll see a small metal tab pointing to the left, that goes up and down when you push on the stove knob (key) Tapping on it with a rock and cleaning it usually fixes it. Electrical contact cleaner and compressed air to clean. If you cant find a K-rock then a small hammer or whatever to tap it free.
 
Krock Check that switch. CPU needs to see it reset. Quick check unplug it and plug back in. Fools the CPU as a reset. Once plugged back should be able to turn stove knob. Quickly.
 
If gently tapping your KIPASS switch corrects the problem, you might want to check if the spring inside the switch has been replaced. My 2008 exhibited behavior like you are experiencing, there was a Kawasaki TSB and the local dealer replaced the spring at no cost.
 
Have you tried unplugging the KIPASS connector and reconnecting it? After reconnecting it, the LCD will illuminate, and you have a few seconds to turn the key. This is a common issue for 2008, and 2009 models. B.D.F. made a KIPASS bypass which makes unplugging it easier, which lets you unplug a fuse instead of the connector. You problem sounds like this. FartyMarty commented the same, but I don't see that you tried it. Try it before doing anything else. It is the most common reason for what you are experiencing on the first gen model.

http://zggtr.org/index.php?topic=2834.msg34344#msg34344
 
If that is the grey connector on the left side under the black moulding/ fairing I did try it. NOTHING. Someone on Facebook had me try it.
 
If you remove the key from the ignition and push down on the tab at 9 o'clock. Using a small pointy thing to push down that tab, you should hear 2 little "TINK" sounds. Once as you push it down and another one as the microswitch is released and the spring pushes it back up. Have you tried that?
 
If you remove the key from the ignition and push down on the tab at 9 o'clock. Using a small pointy thing to push down that tab, you should hear 2 little "TINK" sounds. Once as you push it down and another one as the microswitch is released and the spring pushes it back up. Have you tried that?
Not yet, but I will try it when I get home - if it is as you say, then what would the next step be?
 
There is something really strange happening, because the red light on the top left of the console will flash every so often but I can't get the display to respond in any way
 
On my '10 the red light will flash for 24 hours after the bike has been fired up and then stop flashing. Have you had the new battery tested?
 
I believe that the red flashing light indicates the security system is active. Two areas to review in the service manual would appear to be:
A. ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 16-107, and B. Self-Diagnosis System 17-59, Steering Lock Unit & ECU Communication Line Inspection. GEES, I'm sure no expert but from reading all of the above it sure looks like your security system is "stuck on" [that's a technical term]. ;)
 
I keep going back to the battery, and connections, since they is what was last changed. Make sure the connections are clean, and have no dielectric grease where they actually connect. Dielectric grease is fine on the top of connections, but not between where the connection is actually made. Make sure they are tight. I would go back over the connections again, despite the fact you just did them. I would also put the battery on charge, using something like a Battery Tender.

I put a new battery in my Ural right after replacing the camshaft not long ago. I began having check engine lights, and it ran poorly at times. I could get no code off the ECU. Since I had just had the engine out, and disturbed a lot, I had a lot of possibilities as to what it could be. What it turned out to be, was the connections to my brand new battery. :rolleyes: They were slightly loose, for whatever reason. I snugged them up, and the issue went away. The only reason I didn't check right away, is the battery is a pain to get to, and I just replaced it. It couldn't be the issue... right? The bane of motorcycles like the Concour is electrical connections.

Other than that, be sure the micro switch is working, as was mentioned. I would be tempted to hit that with electrical contact cleaner.
 
I keep going back to the battery, and connections, since they is what was last changed. Make sure the connections are clean, and have no dielectric grease where they actually connect. Dielectric grease is fine on the top of connections, but not between where the connection is actually made. Make sure they are tight. I would go back over the connections again, despite the fact you just did them. I would also put the battery on charge, using something like a Battery Tender.

I put a new battery in my Ural right after replacing the camshaft not long ago. I began having check engine lights, and it ran poorly at times. I could get no code off the ECU. Since I had just had the engine out, and disturbed a lot, I had a lot of possibilities as to what it could be. What it turned out to be, was the connections to my brand new battery. :rolleyes: They were slightly loose, for whatever reason. I snugged them up, and the issue went away. The only reason I didn't check right away, is the battery is a pain to get to, and I just replaced it. It couldn't be the issue... right? The bane of motorcycles like the Concour is electrical connections.

Other than that, be sure the micro switch is working, as was mentioned. I would be tempted to hit that with electrical contact cleaner.
OK - I re-rechecked the bvattery connections - wiped them down, took a wire brush to them and tightened them firmly. NADA. I put the tender on it for about 5 days - nothing. I guess the next step is getting the battery load tested - is there a way I can do that myself or is it best left to those that most likely won't electrocute themselves?
 
If you remove the key from the ignition and push down on the tab at 9 o'clock. Using a small pointy thing to push down that tab, you should hear 2 little "TINK" sounds. Once as you push it down and another one as the microswitch is released and the spring pushes it back up. Have you tried that?
I did it - didn't really hear a "tink" but I do hear the faintest sound as if it engaged something, and then again when I release it
 
The red light flashes for 24 hours then stops to keep from draining the battery. It is an indication the interrupter is enabled. The Red flashing light can also be an indication of an improperly coded key is used or any incorrect communication between antenna and key has occurred. If a properly coded FOB is used and the communication is clear the warning light does not flash.

Do you have another FOB to try?

Maybe there is some sort of radio interference is occurring.

If you remove the key from the ignition and push down on the tab at 9 o'clock. Using a small pointy thing to push down that tab, you should hear 2 little "TINK" sounds. Once as you push it down and another one as the microswitch is released and the spring pushes it back up. Have you tried that?
Good advice....

BTW....The red flashing light can be turned off by pushing and holding holding the upper and lower buttons for more than 2 seconds within 20 seconds of the key being turned off. Then the red light will not flash.
 
OK - I re-rechecked the bvattery connections - wiped them down, took a wire brush to them and tightened them firmly. NADA. I put the tender on it for about 5 days - nothing. I guess the next step is getting the battery load tested - is there a way I can do that myself or is it best left to those that most likely won't electrocute themselves?

Ugh... I would have to say it is likely not the battery. It really shouldn't take much to activate the KIPASS system, I could be wrong though. You can take the battery to a shop to load test it. You wouldn't electrocute yourself though.
 
Ugh... I would have to say it is likely not the battery. It really shouldn't take much to activate the KIPASS system, I could be wrong though. You can take the battery to a shop to load test it. You wouldn't electrocute yourself though.
I agree with C 14 on this, Kipass might be sensitive to voltage but a load test shouldn't be needed to solve a no lighted screen problem.

If that is the grey connector on the left side under the black moulding/ fairing I did try it. NOTHING. Someone on Facebook had me try it.

Stockconnector.jpg


If this ↑↑↑ was done with the battery connected and the screen didn't light up, then I'm stumped. That should have worked (if the steering head switch was stuck). If you're sure that this was the correct connector and it was fully taken apart and then re connected,........ then maybe it is the ground connector problem like Cliff encountered on his bike in the wire loom.

You did indicate that the bike did start at least once after the battery was replaced..correct? So we do know that it was installed correctly? (not trying to be insulting, others here that know better have tried it the wrong way too.)
 
I agree with C 14 on this, Kipass might be sensitive to voltage but a load test shouldn't be needed to solve a no lighted screen problem.



Stockconnector.jpg


If this ↑↑↑ was done with the battery connected and the screen didn't light up, then I'm stumped. That should have worked (if the steering head switch was stuck). If you're sure that this was the correct connector and it was fully taken apart and then re connected,........ then maybe it is the ground connector problem like Cliff encountered on his bike in the wire loom.

You did indicate that the bike did start at least once after the battery was replaced..correct? So we do know that it was installed correctly? (not trying to be insulting, others here that know better have tried it the wrong way too.)
Yes sir, that is the one, and yeah, it was definitely completely disconnected - yeah, the battery should be fine, it started the bike at least 5 times I can think of after being replaced
 
Probably should try another new battery. New batteries die all the time. And they can test good. Recheck that main fuse when the battery is out.

From what I've read about Cliffs ground block, it didn't keep the bike from starting and running.
 
Probably should try another new battery. New batteries die all the time. And they can test good. Recheck that main fuse when the battery is out.

From what I've read about Cliffs ground block, it didn't keep the bike from starting and running.
Yeah, that is what I read as well, so I wasn't certain the ground block was a problem. What would allow the little red light to flash but stop everything else from working? I mean, the lcd display is totally dead
 
The red light means absolutely nothing. Just forget it exists. And these bikes do not have a security system.
 
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I edited my last post because all the sudden I don't remember which cable is where. And I've done it dozens of times. So be sure to get it right!
 
The red light flashes for 24 hours then stops to keep from draining the battery. It is an indication the interrupter is enabled. The Red flashing light can also be an indication of an improperly coded key is used or any incorrect communication between antenna and key has occurred. If a properly coded FOB is used and the communication is clear the warning light does not flash.

This info comes from the owners manual. Makes me wonder if there is not a corroded connection some where in the wiring harness related to kipass.

Cleaning the battery ground wire is a good idea.

At the start if the season, my 09 turned over slower than normal but still started. Battery is a 1 year old Yususa. (this is with the trickle charger in "storage" just prior to starting the bike.) After cleaning that short battery ground cable, the starter turned the motor over closer to normal. But it took the trickle charger a LONG time to fully recharge the battery. I used sandpaper to clean the frame and the side of the connector that is bolted against the frame. Scotch bright would probably work a bit better.
 
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Yeah I was thinking about sirens and motion detectors and such as far as a security system goes. I forgot the main purpose of Kipass is security. As far as the red light goes, it's actually a good thing to see it flashing. Just means it's working and reminds you that you need a good and proper fob. My car has a fob and has no flashing light. So it's not really necessary to have the light.

But this situation revolves around the fob, the little switch and the battery. If the fob didn't go thru the washer, and the little switch is releasing properly, then the new battery must have self destructed.
 
But this situation revolves around the fob, the little switch and the battery. If the fob didn't go thru the washer, and the little switch is releasing properly, then the new battery must have self destructed.

A C14 FOB will go through a wash and dry cycle once. Don't ask me how I know.
 
When I bought my 2014 I thought the flashing red light was some sort of theft deterrent.
Like a potential thief might see the flashing light and pass on trying to steal your bike thinking a alarm was active.
I looked in my owners Manuel and found out how to turn it off.
When I travel I always cover my bike at night.
Fingers crossed J figure's out his electrical problem.
Nick 2014 C-14
 
Yeah I was thinking about sirens and motion detectors and such as far as a security system goes. I forgot the main purpose of Kipass is security. As far as the red light goes, it's actually a good thing to see it flashing. Just means it's working and reminds you that you need a good and proper fob. My car has a fob and has no flashing light. So it's not really necessary to have the light.

But this situation revolves around the fob, the little switch and the battery. If the fob didn't go thru the washer, and the little switch is releasing properly, then the new battery must have self destructed.
Laker9142 you called it - when I load tested the battery this morning it was at 4 AMPS / Bad - I hooked up my jump pack directly to the battery cables and VOILA - Started right up ~! Thank you!!!!!
 
I agree with C 14 on this, Kipass might be sensitive to voltage but a load test shouldn't be needed to solve a no lighted screen problem.

Laker9142 you called it - when I load tested the battery this morning it was at 4 AMPS / Bad - I hooked up my jump pack directly to the battery cables and VOILA - Started right up ~! Thank you!!!!!

Well, I'll admit I was wrong...but I wish I understood why I was wrong. I don't hate my mistakes as long as I can learn from them...but I do wish I understood this one. It would seem that even only 2 amps or even less would be enough to get KIPASS and the screen to light up even if it wouldn't turn the starter motor. Hmmm now I want to do some experiments with an ammeter and some copper tops.... :unsure: ;) :p

Regardless, that is great news!...and I'm really glad you didn't start tearing into the wiring harness looking for corroded ground connectors.
 
On a modern FI bike a lot of thing happen when you turn on the key. Fuel pump runs to prime the system and other self checks in the ecu. After they are done the voltage may come back to 12v but can't pull the amps to do anything else. If the self check is happening as the fuel pump is running the voltage may be low enough that the ECU says no go and then nothing will happen until it is reset by the key turned off and back on. With the same results.

Glad a new battery fixed it.
 
That's great, glad it was that easy. The best clue was that you had a new battery, if they're gonna go bad it'll be very soon after its installed. Otherwise I would have bet money on that little switch. My last name is Snell, btw. I've got a cousin living down there close by. You're close to the national and the wolf.
 
On a modern FI bike a lot of thing happen when you turn on the key. Fuel pump runs to prime the system and other self checks in the ecu. After they are done the voltage may come back to 12v but can't pull the amps to do anything else. If the self check is happening as the fuel pump is running the voltage may be low enough that the ECU says no go and then nothing will happen until it is reset by the key turned off and back on. With the same results.

Glad a new battery fixed it.
Yes, but not much of that happens until AFTER you turn the key, the first step is to light the screen and search for the fob (which if I understood correctly was not happening with jmacn316843's C14) ....my question is how many amps, or fraction there of, are needed for that very first part where all you have done is pushed down the stove knob down.....I see some s'paramentin' in my future. :unsure: :)
 
AGM... But at the end of the day, I really believe it was me bring forgetfully and leaving the key in the "on" position for several hours, thereby keeping the LCD screen on, that was the cause of the perceived failure.
 
Just saw that the battery was the issue. Should have read all the prior posts before replying. Being on the phone it’s such tiny font that my eyes need adjusting. LOL

I’ll leave this here just the same.

A few days ago I pulled mine out of the garage and got suited up for a ride and then went to start it. I’d forgotten to put it in neutral (parked on a slight grade so I’d left it in 1st gear to make sure no rolling backward). I almost panicked but then went through my mental checklist.

Kickstand down and no green light for neutral was my tickler. Once I put it in neutral it fired up right away as expected. But it was one of those moments where I felt like WTF was going on. I didn’t suddenly lose my mind or the battery hadn’t died from the night before.

If you’ve heard of Occam’s Razor you’ll get it figured out. The most likely answer will be correct. There’s rarely any magic floating around these days now that Merlin has passed on into the storybooks. LOL
 
I think my newest battery just fried. I think it is 2 years old but it replaced one that had been in from 2013 to 2020

Ole gal Was sitting there Sunday just waiting for me to get the lawn done before I had a 6 pm Zoom Lecture. When I went to turn it on.....NADA. Freaked me out ....checked all the normal from the kill switch to the main fuse. Pulled out my handy jump start Monday and it fired but as soon as I removed the batttery pack it died. Watching the volts on the screen....14, 12, 11, 9 and off with dead screen and KIPASS inoperable.

Ordered a new one last night.
 
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