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Pinhole repair in fuel tank 2005 Connie

croach1776

Member
Member
Anyone with experience with this issue. I have checked out several videos and seems soldering is the
best fix for these type of leaks.
 

m in sc

Member
Member
Guest
heres my take.

IF its got a pinhole from rust, more will follow. derust the tank by whatever method, lots are mentioned on here, then get tank sealed.

I've had the best results with the caswell 2 part stuff, and ive used por-15, redkote, kreem in the past. the caswell cures faster and its bulletproof, and like 50 bucks.  You can be back to riding in 24 hours after its lined with the caswell.
 

Mercer

Member
Member
Prep is everything! De-rust tank then braze. Then etch it chemically. Then line with Caswell tank sealer. Never worry bout it again.

Solder will not hold up to ethanol, additives in fuel or vibration.

Tank sealers are like tires and oils. To each his own. I use Caswell because it has never failed me in autos or bikes. Had tried Creme to have it fail once on first fill. There are others out there but I am not going to try anything else ever again. Sticking with what has worked for me.
 

connie_rider

Member
Member
After reading the posts, I think I'd go with the Caswell tank sealer.

I agree that Brazing or Soldering is the best repair for the hole you have.
  But it means you'll probably need a new paint job.
      "and" If you have a rust hole now, you will get more later, as the tank isn't coated.

I used the POR 15 successfully, but some have had problems.
        The problems are normally because of poor prep.
        I suspect the same has happened with all the Coatings.

Ride safe, Ted
 

ZXtasy

Member
Member
Put the pin back in.


JK, I have used RedKote, simple, cheap, and it has been in my several pinholed, rusty, TW-200 gas tank for 9 years, no issues. That tank sees alot of bouncing around too.
 

greenie

Member
Member
A string wrapped around a sheet metal screw very short term.

Question:  I've owned 3 C-10's over the years and never had any rust problems in the tank. Are the bikes that do have rust problems in tanks parked outside long term?
 

Mercer

Member
Member
Greenie said:
Question:  I've owned 3 C-10's over the years and never had any rust problems in the tank. Are the bikes that do have rust problems in tanks parked outside long term?

Condensation in partially filled tanks in high humidity states takes down some with rust along bottom and seams. Have to watch top dome on tank inside too as well. Rust will flake from there. That low part on each side of tank in rear that can not ever drain will also fill with that condensed water. In those states would be wise to use a water remover fuel treatment periodically or other fuel additives. Keeping tank filled when left unattended long would be preferred would suppose too. Prevention being the rule would surmise.

Of note also in fixing such with braze and sealer. Prep is everything to your success. Metal needs to be clean and chemically etched. I always use lots of short sharp screws as well in the etch solution. The ones that do not shake out can be retrieved with a magnet in an old sock through filler hole.

Of note possibly as well regarding C10 tank rehab. I did not drain excess sealer from tank as recommended by Caswell. I positioned tank so as to allow excess sealer to drain and fill those low parts of tank on each side near seat and side panels. Other wise excess sealer is drained and tossed. Figured it could not hurt to lessen this water collecting void.

Hope all that above helps some poor forlorned C10!
 

croach1776

Member
Member
Thinking the sealer might be best route to take now with pin hole and possibly others. Made a few mistakes first time derusting but now have better handle on what will work the best. Thanks for all the info

 

m in sc

Member
Member
Guest
Of note possibly as well regarding C10 tank rehab. I did not drain excess sealer from tank as recommended by Caswell. I positioned tank so as to allow excess sealer to drain and fill those low parts of tank on each side near seat and side panels. Other wise excess sealer is drained and tossed. Figured it could not hurt to lessen this water collecting void.

thats typically what i do. have done probably 8 tanks of various kinds, never had an issue.
 

croach1776

Member
Member
Ok, last ditch effort to save the OEM tank.  After reading posts and other suggestions when I initially de-rusted tank I would like to
take poll on what yall think is the best de-ruster/sealant kit to use. Please only those with experience using said products. I am looking for best product that is also the safest and provides best long term protection. Thanks in advance.
 

MAN OF BLUES

Member
Member
Guest
I mentioned this way back when you were trying to de-rust..
POR-15.. is the best....
if the leaks are in the common most subjected area, of the lower rear wings, leaving a good amount inside the tank, will fill the voids, where the rust began, and will never be effected again...  you might loose about 3 oz. of contained fuel, due to filling those wings.. but really.. it's only like 10 miles less per tank on a trip..  :rotflmao: :rotflmao:

https://youtu.be/8_ckBJxW6mU
http://youtu.be/8_ckBJxW6mU

Ive done many tanks, dating back to 2003, and it is always my #1 finish..
use the product exactly like the instructions state, and the metal prep, when used, can be re used over and over again, so don't dump it out.. it's the basis for the metal coating (and removal of active rust) with zinc Phosphate, and usable many times over.. the secret is oscillating the tank, and making sure the coatings, and pre chem treatments, get complete coverage, and can be utilized..

NOTE: the "small" motorcycle specific kit, will not supply enough of the coating, nor the prep solution, (it did work on my 3 gallon KZ tank, but will never have enough for a C10) I found buying each component in the larger sized containers, will accommodate the huge Concours tank...
 

connie_rider

Member
Member
I'm pretty sure that your near me.
I think I may still have the plugs that you will need to seal the tank.
I will try to find them.

Ride safe, Ted

 

connie_rider

Member
Member
Croach, my apologies but I wasn't able to find the plugs/covers.
Looked where I thought I had stored them, but no luck.
Guess my memory isn't what it used to be. {it's only been 15 years}  :-[

When I did mine, I built aluminum pieces to bolt on over the petcock and float holes.
Built an an expanding rubber plug for the gas cap.

When you do the coating, I can't emphasize enough to do each step per procedures they supply.
ie; You only get 1 chance. If you don't get it sealed the first time, a second coating doesn't bond properly.

Ride safe, Ted
 

m in sc

Member
Member
Guest
If it ever peels, or doesnt stick right, or whatever, caswell will go right over it and encapsulate the bits and flakes. thats actually what it was intended for, and fiberglass tanks, which was my 1st experience with it. Ive bought bikes with bad liners and no worries.

I just skip the risk and go straight to it these days.


 

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croach1776

Member
Member
Np with the stoppers. I measured the fuel tank fill and came up with an inside radius of 1 9/16" and depth of 14/16" if anyone has more accurate measurements please pass it on.  Just have to determine if the numbers they give for stoppers i.e. #9 are for diameter or radius. That info would be appreciated also. Going to either order POR15 kit online or see if local HW stores stock it in quanties needed for 7.5gal Connie tank. Thanks for all the helpful hint.  Will keep yall posted on results.
 

connie_rider

Member
Member
On the stopper, it doesn't have to be a perfect fit. Length really doesn't matter.
Just long e'nuff to seal the hole.
I drilled a hole thru it, and put 2 big washers and a nut on a bolt.
Tightening the bolt expanded the stopper, and assured it didn't come out while doing the acidizing or coating.
I suspect a good piece of tape might work, but building covers for the hole were for the same reason.

Ride safe, Ted
 

Mercer

Member
Member
m in sc said:
I just skip the risk and go straight to it these days.

Yep, it is great sealer. Caswell is alcohol and additive proof. As you say great for old fiberglass. Served me well on my Norton.
 

croach1776

Member
Member
Well finally completed derust and pinhole repair. Believe got good braze with solder. Used the POR 15 system for derust and seal. I contacted POR to see how long I could leave de-greaser in tank, they said 24 hours wouldnt hurt if tank was dirty or been sitting with old gas for long time. So that is what I did with plenty of rotations to make sure all interior surfaces were covered, especially the top of the interior. Really nasty stuff when drained and rinsed. The left the deruster n for good hour with constant rotations of tank every 5 minutes. Then drained and rinsed per instructions. Finally poured two pints of sealer and made sure all surfaces got good coat especially along bottom seams and top of tank. From what I could see there was little excess. Let it dry for over a week. Reinstalled and no more tank leaks. However, very minor leak from petcock bolt...which I believe is due to rubber washser under a bolt. Have ordered OEM plastic washers. Thanks for all the advise.
 
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