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Tight right hand turns are kicking back?

coffee_brake

coffee_brake

Guest
Guest
This problem showed itself at Run with the Wolf, on Wolfpen gap.
There have been so many parts replaced on my C-10 in the last couple of months, after that wheel bearing ruined my wheel, that I'm having trouble wrapping my head around the problem.

I rode with a group on Wolf Pen Gap out of Suches and had the most unsettling kick-back on tight downhill right turns. It was hard to keep the bike on its line. Downhill left turns were fine, faster speed turns were fine, parking lot handling was fine.

I'd swear I had a bubble in the tire's sidewall or something, but no problems there.

Can't exactly replicate the problem here in Charleston.

Also, later the same day I was hauling as5 down hwy 28 where it's just as tight, and I was moving way faster, and had no problems.

New wheel bearings and new brake pads and rotors have bedded in, don't feel any warping in the rotors any other time. I'm really careful about not warping the rotors, understanding how they can overheat under the calipers and that they need to cool off when heavy braking.

New fork seals, absolutely sure the oil levels are right in both forks.

I torqued the triples, fork brace, fender and axle in order from top to bottom to prevent binding.

I only static-balanced the front wheel. But I don't feel a wobble on left turns. I just got a better balancer last week.

any ideas?
 
Sounds very disconcerting. Hard to diagnose intermittent problems, so... Shot in the dark, but could any of your cables be hanging up? Brake lines are secured to only  handlebar, fork, fender & triple tree components?
 
Naw, the routing seems OK. I'm about to get at the neck bearings and check them. It's been a long time and a lot of miles since I last replaced them.
 
I'd check the condition and torque of the swingarm bearings as well.  They can make for some weird "feelings".
 
Rev Ryder said:
I'd check the condition and torque of the swingarm bearings as well.  They can make for some weird "feelings".
Click to expand...

Now that might be a good place to look. I've never replaced those bearings.

The feeling of the kick-back is like the worse warped rotor you've ever experienced, except I'm not using the brakes at all. I imagine a bent rim might feel the same.
 
Any chance the head bearing got damages only on the one side?  It does not take much of a dent in the bearing to make it act weird under load.  It is hard to load it that much by hand to feel it.  It could only happen if you bumped into something like a wall when the wheel was turned.
 
coffee_brake said:
So...looking into swingarm bearings...I've always used All Balls and never had a problem.

But these two kits look very different. What would y'all choose?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/All-Balls-Swingarm-Bearings-28-1171-/231759147013?fits=Model%3AConcours+1000&hash=item35f5ebf005:g:YWwAAOSwknJX0VD3&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/All-Balls-Racing-Swing-Arm-Bearing-Kit-28-1171-for-Kawasaki-/331885404715?fits=Model%3AConcours+1000&hash=item4d45e9622b:g:FOMAAOSwzJ5XZdgI&vxp=mtr
Click to expand...
It appears that the first one is the same, just has the wrong picture.  The second set of needle bearings looks like what's in there now.  No way the first picture bearings could work.  But both sets show the right part number.
 
The swing arm bearings in the C10 are tapered rollers like the first picture shows. The needle bearings in the second picture look like the bearings in the uni-trak linkage for the rear shock.

Dan
 
Duh.  As always, Dan is correct.  I'm getting old I reckon.  It just hasn't been that long since I had all of this apart.  :-[
 
smithr1 said:
Any chance the head bearing got damages only on the one side?  It does not take much of a dent in the bearing to make it act weird under load.  It is hard to load it that much by hand to feel it.  It could only happen if you bumped into something like a wall when the wheel was turned.
Click to expand...

You mean like a low-side into a curb then flip over?
But that was years ago...
 
Jenn, did you ever solve this?
Was reading old posts and came across it.

Years ago, my bike would click/twitch (like something was moving) when I did a tight turn at slow speed.
Tried everything.
Lastly I replaced the bearings/bushings in the fork legs.
Solved my problem.

Ride safe, Ted
 
Front forks completely rebuild, bushings still looked great when I did the fork seals (over and over and over) this summer.

I'm thinking swingarm bearings now. The Works shock is due for a rebuild, trying to get all this done before the sport touring track day early next year.
 
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