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Tire installation: Two shims to help when pulling tire bead over the rim.

lmckusic

Guest
Guest
I installed my second tire on my 2000 Concours. It took me about 8 hours to get the old tire off of the rim. I was as puzzled as much as anything else, why didn't the experience of doing the front tire last year result in me getting the rear tire dismounted relatively promptly? For a bead breaker, this year I had a seven foot window header and an 8 foot 4x4 post pivoting with a 7/8" allthread link. That worked quickly. I unbolted the rear brake disk, which was pretty hairy because the six allen bolts had been secured with red high strength loctite. 

I tried two gadgets for assisting with prying the new tire on the clean rim. The second gadget which helped a lot is a pair of shims, made out of two 8 inch pieces of oak flooring. The motorcycle tire is hard to get on the rim because the outside of the rim is larger than the inside of the tire called the bead. What I figured out is the bead of the tire must be dropped into the root of the rim. The extra 1/2" from being seated in the root is needed so the tire iron can pry the tire bead over the rim edge. To force the tire bead to drop into the root of the rim, I cut two pieces of wood with an 8 1/4" arc. Then I shoved the pieces of wood between the rim and the tire bead. The pieces of wood compress the tire and allow both beads to drop into the root of the rim. It took about an hour to make the shims. With the shims in place, I could start at one end of the shim, slip the rim protector in place, and sort of walk around the rim, levering about 1" of tire bead over the rim edge, and sliding another rim protector in place as I went.

I am not really sure if the idea of getting the bead down into the root really is the key to levering a tire bead over the rim edge. I hope you like looking at the sketch and photo I attach.

For this tire, I bought tire lubricant. If you try making shims, be careful do not let any wood chips get in the rim and bead seat.

 

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Lee you got the theory part down on having both beads at the rim root helps getting the bead over the rim. I've heard of some zip tying the tire to collapse the rim bead together.

BTW, Ma Kawasaki uses a red colored thread locker but it is more towards a blue strength loctite product and not quite as strong as red loctite. A little heat is your friend in breaking it loose and bolt thread removal and I had to wire wheel the remnants of the bolt threads. Not too much heat is needed, you don't want to change the strength properties of the bolt.
 
Several tire changes ago, I started slitting the old tire aound the center of the tread with a razor knife, after breaking the bead loose.  That way you only have to push the one bead at a time down into the wheel valley.  That makes it a very easy job to lever each bead up and over the rim, one at a time.
 
I take my tires to a local independent bike shop. I like supporting the local little guy. He also can come between $5 - 10 of mail order prices too. Mounted and balanced on a tire machine for $25.        :beerchug:
 
I'm with Alan, next time save yourself the frustration and risk of damaging an expensive tire or rim by taking the tire and rim to an independent shop.  They will also do a better job of mounting and balancing than you can. 

If you're in Northern VA by chance, just stay away from Coleman Powersports.  Total thieves. 
 
If I could get a tire mounted and balanced for $25 I would, saves the pain.
Here I paid $60 a tire and the balance job I had to re do.
 
LeeM,

You never mentioned what brand tire you were removing and the brand to be installed, If Metzelers that will explain a lot
of the trouble, They put up a fight when worn out and stiff. I would also leave old and new tires in the sun to help soften
then before removal and installation. I also don't see a lot of lube on the tire in the picture, Lube helps removal and is a must
for installation.

Best of luck with the next one.
 
It's all technique, With a $30 Harbor freight manual tire changer & some lube it's a 5 minute job. There;s plenty of previous threads on the site with more info  :beerchug:
 
A generous amount of RuGlyde from NAPA or Pep Boys goes a long way.  With the tire bead seated in the root, 1 or 2 spoons at the opposite end to get things started.  The rest is by hand.  With the second bead seated in the root, no spoons are required to get the tire completely off the rim.  This has been my experience with Shinko 777, PR3 and Bridgestone BT-45s.  On the install, first bead goes on without any tools, second bead, sometimes, requires a spoon or 2 to get it completely on.  With the beads seated in the root, things should slide over smoothly.  If you find you're having to use a lot of force on the spoons, stop and work the tire down into to the root again with your hands and knees.
 
This works great as a lube and it leaves no residue.  I use it all the time, it foams so it stays put. You can get it at Menards or Wallymart
 

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Good idea. I never thought of using the Glass Cleaner.
Will give it a try next change.

Like Pat and Sher, I let the tires get hot/soft by setting them in the sun before doing the job.
I understand that folks in the cold country set the tire hear a heater.

Ride safe, Ted
 
Anymore I wait till the last point where I need to lube, and spritz WD40 on the bead, and pop it on, been working fine for years, no issues... oh, I didn't come up with this myself, the prior tech editor showed me that is perfectly acceptable..and it does evaporate fast, and clean...
I don't use it when doing tube type tires for people tho, as I don't want to chance them ever having an issue when offroading and trying to glue a patch on a tube...
Just saying...

First set of tires I replaced on my C14, I asked a local member if I could use his new No Mar machine, id do the work, just want to try the machine.. he obliged...
Removed the wheels at his house, no issue, pealed the old skins off no issue, was installing the new skins, and he pulled out a spray bottle of "mystery lube", and before I could ask he had goobered the beads on both tires, and the rims with mystery lube... copiously... meaning lotsa lube...
I literally popped the rear tire on by hand... and the front only required minimal tool use, but the messy lube all over everything was bothering me..
When he finally revealed the lube, he held up a cheap gallon can of olive oil.... not extra virgin either, and said this was like $2 at food club...

I speant almost and hour trying to clean all the excess overspray, off the tires and rims and rotors, before reinstalling them on the bike..
What a pain, even Gumout doesn't cut olive oil....
When I did the next tire change, the rubber was absolutly glued to the rim beads.. and much effort to clean again, had me cussing...
Don't use olive oil.... mmmmmkayyyy
:rotflmao: :rotflmao:
 
I've used a number of small wood blocks to accomplish the same thing as your squirrel chewed piece of hardwood floor but I find that kneeling on the tire from the opposite side of the spoon works just as well. Whatever gets em on without damaging the bead.
 
I think I did the same as Zorlack on my last tire change. Used a wood block keep the tire bead where I wanted it.
LeeM's idea might be useful next time..

Ride safe, Ted
 
I just changed both my tires this past weekend and used the zip tie method you can find on youtube.  First time I tried and I was amazed at how easy it was to change tires.  All I had to do is visit Harbor Freight and buy a couple of packs if the longest tie wraps they carry.  You'll need 10 for the front and 10 to do the rear.  At least that's what I used.  5 for taking the tire off the rim and 5 for installing the new rubber.  I have a bead breaker (Harbor Freight as well).  Literally took me 10 minutes total.  Soapy water and one single tire iron was all that was needed.  Put the rim on a 5 gallon bucket.  Low tech.  I could believe how simple it was!
 
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