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Valve adjust time this summer

wjinks

Road Bike
I have the workshop manual and a full set of tools. I have lots of experience on engines BUT I have never done one that uses shims. Has any one written up instructions on doing this on a c-14. I know Fred has a maint video. Does this cover the valve job? It must be a job just to get to them to check them. Mine is running sooo good I hate to mess with it.
 
From what I understand, Fred goes through it pretty good. I watched one or two of Fred's DVD's to check them out. I found him to be very in depth to the point of saying, "come on Fred, pick it up a little!"  :))  I think they would probably work for you, If you want an aid to help you out, if you decide to do it yourself.
 
I had a BMW K100 back in the 90s. The recommendation for valve adjustment was at 40k. It was one of the first bikes to use shim over bucket adjustment. At 60k I figured, ok what the heck, bought the shim kit for $100 and attacked the top end myself. I am a pretty good mechanic and have been working on my bikes and cars since I was 18. The valves were not off by .001. So my experience is that the shims are extremely hard metal and basically do not wear as long as you always use good oil and change regularly. I have been using synthetic in all of my vehicles for the past 20 years and changing at 5k intervals with much success. In my humble opinion, the valve adjustment, unless you are racing and need every hp, is an expense that is rarely justified.
 
I have a 2008 Concour, and I did the valve adjustment at 25,000 miles. Some were off two shim sizes, and most shims had to be changed. I know some folks don't get adjustments on them, and most professional dealer mechanics check them and say alright, no problem. But I would adjust them after 20,000 miles.
 
Wayne,

Do yourself a favor and get Fred's videos.  Yes, they are very "thorough" but they instill great confidence if you have any trepidation at all.  (make sure you have fast forward) Really valuable insight as to what parts need to come off and how to manage the ones that don't--the valve check is almost the easy part if you've "mechaniked" before.

Valves don't wear much up top anymore--esp with modern oil--but the seats can change a little which tightens the tolerance which wears the seat faster which tightens, well, you get the picture.  Catch them early and they'll probably never change again until you wear it out completely.

Lastly, I've never gotten a bike back from a shop with everything back in the correct place.  If they had those videos they would do much better, now that I have them I'll keep my money...
 
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