Took it for a short run yesterday to pick up some H151 hose from a local NAPA. It'll hit the lift in the next day or so for a bunch of stuff (coolant, hoses, fluid change, swing arm bearing lube, etc.). have to fab a special R90 R60/2 tool for a local BMW mech, first, then it's on to MY stuff.
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Rode it 140 miles. Mozart St to Boyd Rd. to Gerald Rd. to highway 70 to Derby, IN to Indiana 66 to Indiana 62 to Corydon, Indiana to Indiana 135 to Brandenburg, Kentucky to Kentucky 144 to Kentucky 60 to Indiana 237 back to Mozart St and back home. Twas a good day. Sunny and about 60 with very little wind. Was singing along to my favorite tunes in my helmet. Connie performed flawlessly! :beerchug: Life is good! 
connieklr said:
Got the first article done for the fella, it works fine, so by previous arrangement, I made a couple more.
Time to get the C10 up on the lift and get started. Another fella coming in later this week to get a bad ball coupler cut off a trailer and a new one welded in place. Has some other stuff he wants done too, but that shouldn’t hold me up too bad ‘cause he’s in no big hurry.
BMW stuff:
Where they're used - R60/2 Swing Arm Pivot:
I took a piece of my cropped-off fairing to the local auto parts store to look for cheap paint that matches my 1987.
The old paint is from a $900 paint job that did everything except the side covers and the tail, so the whole front, sides, belly and gas tank were done professionally and match the old paint as far as I can tell.
So I found Duplicolor BFM0225 which says it's a replacement for DSFM225.
I sprayed a quick coat horizontally across the middle of the scoop.
These are the results, dry, no clear coat or wax or anything.
If my bike doesn't sell as-is I'll put this on my red, gold, & black fairing bits to make Connie look like new.
Then I'll have to jack up the bike-only price and the cycle will go on...
Anyway these picures are not before & after, they are both after but at different angles to the sunlight & camera.
The old paint is from a $900 paint job that did everything except the side covers and the tail, so the whole front, sides, belly and gas tank were done professionally and match the old paint as far as I can tell.
So I found Duplicolor BFM0225 which says it's a replacement for DSFM225.
I sprayed a quick coat horizontally across the middle of the scoop.
These are the results, dry, no clear coat or wax or anything.
If my bike doesn't sell as-is I'll put this on my red, gold, & black fairing bits to make Connie look like new.
Then I'll have to jack up the bike-only price and the cycle will go on...
Anyway these picures are not before & after, they are both after but at different angles to the sunlight & camera.
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FINALLY, looks like a real M/C again. Got most of the maint. items done with the exception of pulling the swingarm and lubing all the suspension points. Decided to wait until it gets closer to National time when I pull the wheel to stick on the new SR734.
Anyway, we're good for awhile. :motonoises:
Anyway, we're good for awhile. :motonoises:
Last night rebuilt the front left caliper (the front left rotor was hot hot hot even when I didn't touch the brake), and then today went through the rear to make sure the seals weren't binding. Running real smooth on all the rotors now and good to go! That's the last (for the moment) of major problems, now it's just a matter of comfort upgrades (seat, windshield, suspension etc)
Front-end tune-up: Sonic 1.1kg springs, RT gold valve emulators (blue spring, 2 turns), All-Balls fork bushings and seals, Bel-Ray 20WT fork oil, OEM steering heed bearings and seals.
All together these made a HUGE difference in ride and handling!
BTW - OTC 4796 Steering Neck Bearing Race Remover tool is the only way to go when replacing C-10 steering head races. Also made bearing race installer from HD 2' threaded rod and HF race drivers. The right tools make the job super easy.
All together these made a HUGE difference in ride and handling!
BTW - OTC 4796 Steering Neck Bearing Race Remover tool is the only way to go when replacing C-10 steering head races. Also made bearing race installer from HD 2' threaded rod and HF race drivers. The right tools make the job super easy.
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Rain day catch up on some C10 maintenance.....took 180 grit to my rear brake rotor. Have been having a rusting problem between rides. Took it down by hand in short order then went back over rotor again. No rust left on sand paper. Just clean metal now. Lets see if it comes back in time. Cleaned with acetone after. Will change pads after this riding season if they last that long.
Also pulled cams from my parts carcass 2000 C10. Exhaust valve dropped on no.1 cylinder. Slowly taking it down and boxing parts for future use on my 1987. Will pull head to inspect damage soon. Pulling exhaust headers next time I have some to spare. Can not wait to see how bad the result to piston, rod, and head. Yeah real curious.
Had a 4 degree exhaust sprocket in there to boot! My goal is to keep the 87 alive for rest of my riding career.
Had a 4 degree exhaust sprocket in there to boot! My goal is to keep the 87 alive for rest of my riding career.
5
56taskforce
Guest
Guest
Sold it :??:
Last weekend I finished up spraying Otto's repaired fairing and did a pretty poor job of it, but **** it
Also half mounted the front crash bars I got from Murphs and finally mounted and bled the replacement (used) rear brake pedal/bracket/master cyl.
So, what remains is to get a new front tyre (110/80-ZR18 PR3), bug Ted about the cartridge emulators, fit the cartridge emulators, fix a few minor oil leaks (clutch pushrod seal, water pump seal, breather to airbox elbow fitting) and then refit the fairing.
Once all back together, get him tested and taxed and fully road legal, and then ride the snot out of him for a week or 2 to see if any problems.
Also half mounted the front crash bars I got from Murphs and finally mounted and bled the replacement (used) rear brake pedal/bracket/master cyl.
So, what remains is to get a new front tyre (110/80-ZR18 PR3), bug Ted about the cartridge emulators, fit the cartridge emulators, fix a few minor oil leaks (clutch pushrod seal, water pump seal, breather to airbox elbow fitting) and then refit the fairing.
Once all back together, get him tested and taxed and fully road legal, and then ride the snot out of him for a week or 2 to see if any problems.
Mettler1
Sport Tourer
Gave it away!!! :great: Had not ridden it in 2 yrs and got too old to handle it. Was going to sell it but couldn't let some yokel I didn't know have it!! My son-in law really likes motorcycles and takes good care of his rides. So I GAVE it to him!! :beerchug: He live a few states from me so I shipped it to him. All it cost him was the shipping. He got a damn nice C10 and I can sleep at night knowing it is in good hands!!
Boomer said:Last weekend I finished up spraying Otto's repaired fairing and did a pretty poor job of it, but **** it
Also half mounted the front crash bars I got from Murphs and finally mounted and bled the replacement (used) rear brake pedal/bracket/master cyl.
So, what remains is to get a new front tyre (110/80-ZR18 PR3), bug Ted about the cartridge emulators, fit the cartridge emulators, fix a few minor oil leaks (clutch pushrod seal, water pump seal, breather to airbox elbow fitting) and then refit the fairing.
Once all back together, get him tested and taxed and fully road legal, and then ride the snot out of him for a week or 2 to see if any problems.
Great news on Otto!
Would like to see him running again!
Emulator PM sent.
Ride safe, Ted
July 2nd, I pulled the lower fairings off thinking that I should put all the heat shields back in for the summer. That led to:
July 3rd, I rode 160 mile loop from home to "drain the tank" a bit. Indiana 145 to Indiana 62 to Corydon. Indiana 135 to Kentucky 272 to Kentucky 144, ending with Kentucky 60 and Indiana 237, then back home. Drained the engine oil and final drive oil. Replaced the oil filter with a wix 24941 and filled with 15w40 rotella. Filled the final drive with some fresh 80w 90w gear oil. Drained coolant and flushed with distilled water. Refilled cooling system with extended life coolant.
July 4th Flushed front and rear brakes as well as clutch.
July 5th Pulled the front forks. Dumped out the old fork oil. Flushed forks with atf. Replaced stock fork springs with Sonic .95kg springs. Refilled with maxima 15w fork oil. 54,197 miles on the clock. If the motivation lasts, I'll sync the carbs with my new twin max and set the sag with the new springs. Still debating whether or not to put the lower fairings back on or leave them off for the summer.
July 3rd, I rode 160 mile loop from home to "drain the tank" a bit. Indiana 145 to Indiana 62 to Corydon. Indiana 135 to Kentucky 272 to Kentucky 144, ending with Kentucky 60 and Indiana 237, then back home. Drained the engine oil and final drive oil. Replaced the oil filter with a wix 24941 and filled with 15w40 rotella. Filled the final drive with some fresh 80w 90w gear oil. Drained coolant and flushed with distilled water. Refilled cooling system with extended life coolant.
July 4th Flushed front and rear brakes as well as clutch.
July 5th Pulled the front forks. Dumped out the old fork oil. Flushed forks with atf. Replaced stock fork springs with Sonic .95kg springs. Refilled with maxima 15w fork oil. 54,197 miles on the clock. If the motivation lasts, I'll sync the carbs with my new twin max and set the sag with the new springs. Still debating whether or not to put the lower fairings back on or leave them off for the summer.
Replaced the switches on the left handlebar so now my left turn signal works 100% of the time and not just when it feels like it.
Raised the handlebars and now it feels like a new bike. It's like I put power steering on it, much lighter. Should have done this when I bought the bike.
Raised the handlebars and now it feels like a new bike. It's like I put power steering on it, much lighter. Should have done this when I bought the bike.
Didn’t do it today, but in the past I have had to repair plastic side panels on my C10. Stuff called Plastic Bumper Repair works great. It is a plastic epoxy and comes with some mesh reinforcing cloth. Patch it on the inside.
treadlightly
Training Wheels
Checked the tire code to see how old they are. Bridgestone Battlax on the front Bridgestone Exedra Max on the rear, made in 2015 with very good tread depth so I'm happy with that. Just bought the bike, 1986 with 7000 Miles. Filled the tank for the first time tonight and went on a nice 50 mile round trip out to the country and back. It rained this morning and was cloudy all day so it never even reached 90 degrees and cooled down quickly when the sun set. Also checked other drivers reaction to running with the brights on, not a single person flashed me so I think I'll run them all the time. The dims don't reach out far enough.
:-\ :-\ :-\ :-[ :-[ :-[
Ok, I admit it.. Your a better man than me!
Ride safe, Ted
:-[ :-[ :-[Ok, I admit it.. Your a better man than me!
Ride safe, Ted
treadlightly
Training Wheels
:-[ :-[ :-[ Well I went for a 2 hour ride round trip just after sunrise down to Granbury Lake while it was still relatively cool. That's a first, haven't got to ride with the temperature below 90 until today. New owner. No problems except a little hesitation during the last leg of the ride at 60 MPH. My bike came with an inline shutoff valve and for the second time now I forgot to turn it off when I got home. So, for the second time I pulled the tank and pulled each plug to make sure I didn't flood the cylinders. I curl up a sheet of paper real small and drop it into each cylinder . It came back dry so I buttoned everything back up and went for a test ride. No problems. I thought I had the system down and would never forget to shut the valve again but I did. Last time for sure. :-[ :-[ :-[
Famous last words: Last time for sure. or I'll never forget to turn it off again..
Replace the petcock IMMEDIATELY!!!
Ride safe, Ted
Replace the petcock IMMEDIATELY!!!
Ride safe, Ted
Ok if you say soTreadlightly said:
Ill just leave this here
https://www.murphskits.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_94&products_id=140&osCsid=VWLLGeMFa6H7qGM9CNcD1
caldog
Moped
Yesterday I did the "igniter ground wire mod". I'm probably the last one to do it, but thought I'd pass on my "seat of the pants" observations. Just got back from my favorite 60 mile loop. The engine is much more "linear" as far as twist on smoothness. The engine seems to have smoothed out and quieted up a bit at 3500 rpm's at 65 mph. I knew something had changed as I had to drop the idle back down to 1200 rpm's in the driveway before my ride. After the mod, idle was at 1500 rpm's. I did nothing else to the bike yesterday to explain a 300 rpm gain! I used 12ga. wire from igniter to negative post on the battery. The other end of the factory cut off ground is now grounded to the bolt at the seat latch. This modification works.
Today I finished reassembling Otto. It's only taken me 2yrs 2mths since the accident.
Took him out for a ride and gave him a good thrashing. I really missed riding the C10.
The C14 is great, but too easy to ride very fast.
The C10 is a different beast altogether.
He now has Cartridge emulators, Murphs tipover bars (front only) and a shorty screen for the summer.
Will post some pics once he's had a wash.
Took him out for a ride and gave him a good thrashing. I really missed riding the C10.
The C14 is great, but too easy to ride very fast.
The C10 is a different beast altogether.
He now has Cartridge emulators, Murphs tipover bars (front only) and a shorty screen for the summer.
Will post some pics once he's had a wash.
Otto rides again!! :motonoises:
Yahooooooo!!
:TPIWWP:
Ride safe, Ted
Yahooooooo!!
:TPIWWP:
Ride safe, Ted
Bought ANOTHER one! I'm the current caretaker of Blue. Blue belonged to Fred Bowen aka TnRider. I just want to thank Fred for passing along a great deal to another COG member. Fred went above and beyond my expectations in EVERY way. I hope Fred sticks with COG as he is a fine example of the folks that you'll meet through the club. Thanks again Fred. I'll do my best to take care of Blue for ya! :great:
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Something strange about the 2nd photo.
Makes it kinda hard to tell with ya standing on your head..
Which is Bud and which is TnRider?
Is that a trailer in yer truck too? :-\
Ride safe, Ted
Makes it kinda hard to tell with ya standing on your head..
Which is Bud and which is TnRider?
Is that a trailer in yer truck too? :-\
Ride safe, Ted
Yea Boomer I was not riding the C12 for three months. Felt good and riding my old friend!
No major problem just on the list to replace the corroded right turn signal innards. Took the one out of the 87 parts bike.
Lubed the stiff throttle cable.
Rode it with the RAT group yesterday for a 400 mi loop down to Astoria.
Good weather around 70F. Good group as riding with them since about 2000.
No major problem just on the list to replace the corroded right turn signal innards. Took the one out of the 87 parts bike.
Lubed the stiff throttle cable.
Rode it with the RAT group yesterday for a 400 mi loop down to Astoria.
Good weather around 70F. Good group as riding with them since about 2000.
I went form 0 to 60 in about 3.5 seconds all day, and took third gear to nearly 100 mph in about 6 seconds. I over revved it, clicked on the cruise control and rode with no hands at 90 mph on every straight , and pushed 4th gear to about 115 mph passing annoying , law abiding citizens. Then I took Crysis for a beer or 4 at the sports pub, and blasted off in second gear to about 70 mph in a 30 after winning 3 pool games in a row. Now Crysis knows tomorrow is another play day, and she is ready. I will try to film some of my usual routes to the river here in Oregon. I hope to convince some of you "in charge" folks to take a "CAMPING TRIP", but aint holding my breath. I will never take a long road trip that ends in a hotel. Nature, that is where the fun is. Quick, before we die. Must hurry!
oh,, forgot to mention, my Tack stopped working the day Crysis threw herself on the groud while warming up. I was in the house and heard the terrible crashing sound. Anyhow,, I know I push her to 11 grand power shifting, but it sucks not having confirmation. If anyone knows why a perfect C10 could stop reading its rpms after a fall to the right . An impact that broke the foot pet and right mirror,, please,, a hint how to fix it is welcome, otherwise I will continue ignoring it. It looked mechanical, because right when I came outside and picked her up, she was still running just fine, the tachometer was stuck at 4k, but would read higher rpm's,, but soon,, it just stayed at 4k, permanently. So I don't think it can be electrical. Its mechanical.
Just defying the laws of gravity Ted. :-\ ;D I'd be interested in knowing how some picture posts can end up upside down in the thumbnail and when you click on the picture to open it in a large window, is properly oriented. I'd be the one in red Ted! Fred wanted to give me a kitchen sink, but we didn't have any room for more stuff. Yep that's a really nice fiberglass trailer in the back of the truck. Boxes of spare parts and take off items. A tire changer that had caught my eye a while back. There is so much stuff, I'm gonna have to do inventory to see everything I got. This bike is set up very nicely for someone wanting an upright riding position. Did I mention it has electronic cruise? I am PUMPED about this new addition to the fleet! Thanks again Fred!connie_rider said:
bajasam said:
Ok, So here is one for ya. A couple days after I put my brand new rear tire on, Metzler ultra xxx, I spot a nice screw hear sticking out of the half inch think tread. No shop here will deal with it, claim it can't be insured, but encourage me to remove and patch it from the inside myself. I'm too into using the bike daily and instead pull the screw out, coat a 117 caliber pellet with rubberized glue and shove it a good half inch into the hole. Then I cut small clumps of electrician rubberized tape, ball them up and shove them into the hole , with rubberized tire glue. I ended up shoving about five wads of rubber on top of the pellet. Now about once a month I have to put about 5 lbs air pressure in,, very slow leak. How is that for lazy mans fix
:beerchug:I slightly abuse Crysis again, trying to film my ride down 8 dollar mountain trail, to little falls, but the vid sucked and all one can see is my arm pulling clutch. You can hear me bottoming out a few times, scraping center stand, but not worth loading it up on youtube if you cannot see the trail. So Tomorrow I will try again. I did however, meet a wonderful 30 year old gal in a similar life situation as myself, and hope to run into her again. She was not interested in a ride on Crysis though, broke my heart. I guess she heard my motor screaming on the way down the canyon. ;(
Ok, So here is one for ya. A couple days after I put my brand new rear tire on, Metzler ultra xxx, I spot a nice screw hear sticking out of the half inch think tread. No shop here will deal with it, claim it can't be insured, but encourage me to remove and patch it from the inside myself. I'm too into using the bike daily and instead pull the screw out, coat a 117 caliber pellet with rubberized glue and shove it a good half inch into the hole. Then I cut small clumps of electrician rubberized tape, ball them up and shove them into the hole , with rubberized tire glue. I ended up shoving about five wads of rubber on top of the pellet. Now about once a month I have to put about 5 lbs air pressure in,, very slow leak. How is that for lazy mans fix :beerchug:
[/quote] I bet those gummy worm candy things would work good too,probably would'nt even need the glue.
:beerchug:[/quote] I bet those gummy worm candy things would work good too,probably would'nt even need the glue.
I bet those gummy worm candy things would work good too,probably would'nt even need the glue.bajasam said:Ok, So here is one for ya. A couple days after I put my brand new rear tire on, Metzler ultra xxx, I spot a nice screw hear sticking out of the half inch think tread. No shop here will deal with it, claim it can't be insured, but encourage me to remove and patch it from the inside myself. I'm too into using the bike daily and instead pull the screw out, coat a 117 caliber pellet with rubberized glue and shove it a good half inch into the hole. Then I cut small clumps of electrician rubberized tape, ball them up and shove them into the hole , with rubberized tire glue. I ended up shoving about five wads of rubber on top of the pellet. Now about once a month I have to put about 5 lbs air pressure in,, very slow leak. How is that for lazy mans fix
[/quote]
no mater what you shove in... YOU NEED GLUE
Motorcycle check for road trip to Missouri for my sons graduation from US Army boot camp. Oil changed, replaced bulb that was burnt out, topped up the coolant, cleaned the instruments and lubed all the cables, checked brake fluid, cleaned out all the bags/compartments, cleaned air filter, got extra fuses just in case, checked tires, put registration etc in plastic bag under seat with the emergency tools, verified phone charger working, AAA trip tick in plastic and packed ..... I feel like I am forgetting something, but I’m not sure what (not including clothes and personal items)?
BTW - It looks like I will be hitting 50k on this trip ..... I will have to take a picture.
BTW - It looks like I will be hitting 50k on this trip ..... I will have to take a picture.
Today I started it up after a couple or 3 weeks of sitting. Started on the 2nd or 3rd try without a jump and it hasn't been on the trickle charge either. It was the first cool day in a while so I'm thinking of putting it on Craig's List, caption "it's the old guy with a limp selling a bike trick". My limp started last week so it isn't a bike issue and we should leave it at that, except to mention my back's been aching and I might have trouble up-shifting. The bike is stored outdoors under a cover and I found a stalk of grass growing between 2 spokes of the front wheel, sticking out beneath the nylon cover.
So I looked at Craig's List Long Island just now,where I am, and there are 3 C10s for sale already. Lowest price is a 98 for $1900, highest was a 2003 at maybe $2800, middle one was in between in years and $. All have the newer dash and bigger brakes than my 1987.
I had the bike on Cycle Trader in early to mid-spring and got 3 nibbles. I also was putting a big plastic For Sale sign on the windshield when I parked it at work but I stopped after the Spring Fling which is the last ride I remember now.
Instead, I ordered a desk nameplate like you might have if you worked at a bank, only my nameplate says something like 1987 Concours For Sale, text offer to (my number which you may find in the emporium if your lucky). I cut the empty spaces off the sides (it's a 2-line nameplate) and have it bolted to a 1.5 by 1.5 by .06 aluminum angle which is mounted by the 2 dash board screws. Sorry I didn't get a picture for you. The thinking here is that anybody who wants the bike will be close enough to see the sign and I can leave it on all the time, it will ride like it isn't there. And I'm writing this long post instead of putting an ad on Craig's List.
Now all I have to do is ride the bike somewhere, sometime :motonoises:
So I looked at Craig's List Long Island just now,where I am, and there are 3 C10s for sale already. Lowest price is a 98 for $1900, highest was a 2003 at maybe $2800, middle one was in between in years and $. All have the newer dash and bigger brakes than my 1987.
I had the bike on Cycle Trader in early to mid-spring and got 3 nibbles. I also was putting a big plastic For Sale sign on the windshield when I parked it at work but I stopped after the Spring Fling which is the last ride I remember now.
Instead, I ordered a desk nameplate like you might have if you worked at a bank, only my nameplate says something like 1987 Concours For Sale, text offer to (my number which you may find in the emporium if your lucky). I cut the empty spaces off the sides (it's a 2-line nameplate) and have it bolted to a 1.5 by 1.5 by .06 aluminum angle which is mounted by the 2 dash board screws. Sorry I didn't get a picture for you. The thinking here is that anybody who wants the bike will be close enough to see the sign and I can leave it on all the time, it will ride like it isn't there. And I'm writing this long post instead of putting an ad on Craig's List.
Now all I have to do is ride the bike somewhere, sometime :motonoises:
Put on the short (un)tinted Rifle shield to replace the old tall tinted one – old shield must have seen lots of sun because it splintered in some spots (was already cracked and stop-drilled in several places). Swapped out the stock seat for the Corbin (not sure it’s an improvement for my rotundity). Thought about changing oil (don’t think it needs it yet) and perhaps doing the knee-savers (pretty sure the rider needs this for any rides over a couple of hundred) or the handle-bar risers (unsure of need), but the day was too pleasant to waste, so went riding – windshield was perfect… the rest may have to wait for a rainy/snowy/sleety post-nuclear-event weekend I think. Nice ride...
treadlightly
Training Wheels
Does yesterday count? I fabricated a new windshield from Lexan after my kickstand sank in the mud and caused my bike to smack into the car it was sitting next to breaking the Rifle windshield it had. No damage to the car, my landlords. Looks great and stands up to at least 80 mph without flexing. The blessed rains have come and the riding weather is perfect right behind it. I'm going for a ride. See ya later alligator.
treadlightly
Training Wheels
Gorilla Duct Taped my mirrors in place. The right one rattled loose first and I caught it before it hit the ground, left one rattled loose and was gone without my noticing, found a spare in the treasure trove of spare parts that came with the bike's (2 1986's). She isn't going to win any beauty prizes anyway and the black blends in well enough. I really missed that left mirror in the brief time it was missing, I've come to depend on it at red lights.
Mettler1
Sport Tourer
Tour !, If you are not going to ride your C10 any more and you know someone that would that would really like it and take good care of It ,do what I did!! Give it to them!! Gave my ,94 C10 to my son-in-law who really takes care of his rides!! He really loves me C10 and I know it is in good hands. Make me happy to know it will be treated well!!! :great:
He really loves me C10 and I know it is in good hands. Make me happy to know it will be treated well!!! :great:
Yep, I've been thinking along those lines and I heard Adopt, don't shop! on the news. Something about people who like pets instead of motorcycles (can you imagine such a thing).Mettler1 said:Tour !, If you are not going to ride your C10 any more and you know someone that would that would really like it and take good care of It ,do what I did!! Give it to them!! Gave my ,94 C10 to my son-in-law who really takes care of his rides!!
Trouble is I also think, if you have to pay for something you'll make a better decision about whether or not you need it.
Anyway if you know a good family that will give an aging C10 a happy home, it can't hurt to ask.
I suppose struggling college students and the like would have a better chance at it, but an experienced rider is also a must.
Aside from that, the clouds in my mind are coalescing into 2 patterns, one is a throttle grip setup on the left handlebar that would do upshifts and down shifts, while the other is a double shift lever that extends backward from the pivot so I could push the back down to upshift. Or maybe an L shape so kicking my left foot backwards would upshift.
Que sera sera ;-)
Should be EZ to adapt an old heel/toe shifter.
Either adapt 1, or cut the heel section off and weld to another Connie shifter.
Ride safe, Ted
Either adapt 1, or cut the heel section off and weld to another Connie shifter.
Ride safe, Ted
Haven't looked at the bike for a while but to keep up my frugal image I think I should try adapting a broken antler first.connie_rider said:
The TV news tonight said the average cost of a "date" in NY city is $297.
That means if you get shut down twice you could buy a C10 and have $94 left.
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Simple oil change and would have buttoned back up, but now have a whole goodie-box of Murph’s stuff to install, so just kept taking Tupperware off, oomph… should be riding again by next year, or perhaps the year after… am never going to complain about my ol’ Nomad (RIP) again, simplest oil change on the planet – one and done in less than ten minutes… (assuming the goat-belly is gone). :-[
Did decide that over-center stand is hopeless -- have uninstalled them on every bike that had them (mostly Nortons), makes good sense on a 20# bicycle, but that's why the invented motorcycle lifts -- dragged mine out from the other shop, all is well...
Did decide that over-center stand is hopeless -- have uninstalled them on every bike that had them (mostly Nortons), makes good sense on a 20# bicycle, but that's why the invented motorcycle lifts -- dragged mine out from the other shop, all is well...
360 mile round trip to Cookeville, TN to retrieve the 60 bucks change I forgot to get from the cashier at T Mart when I went down and bought Blue. :-[ :-[ Got to see some parts of TN I hadn't seen before. Good trip! Blue performed like a champ!
:motonoises: :motonoises:
PS I love this bike Fred!! :beerchug:
:motonoises: :motonoises:
PS I love this bike Fred!! :beerchug:
treadlightly
Training Wheels
Bud said:
Also pulled Corbin seat cover for replacement. Put stock seat back on till recover is completed. New vinyl should be delivered today.
Using faux aligator for flat surfaces with distressed faux leather for side panels. All black of course. Should look real good on the Corbin. Yeah live long enough in Lousiana and it gets to you............
Using faux aligator for flat surfaces with distressed faux leather for side panels. All black of course. Should look real good on the Corbin. Yeah live long enough in Lousiana and it gets to you............
Who is doing the recover for you? After it's done, please let me know the results.
I tried to get Corbin to recover my old Corbin, as it has the correct firmness. {ie; not as hard as they make them now}
They wanted almost the cost of a new seat.
Ride safe, Ted
I tried to get Corbin to recover my old Corbin, as it has the correct firmness. {ie; not as hard as they make them now}
They wanted almost the cost of a new seat.
Ride safe, Ted
Ted, Have'nt got areupholstery near me lined up yet. Wife and I are talking about doing it ourselves buying one of those $100 dollar modern made antique replica Chinese sewing machines made for such. We have some other items to sew. Would be helpful to keep up our awnings and camp gear. Want to make a sail for new kayak too when shipper delivers it. Yeah we are DIY'ers.
Note: Pulled seat cover this morning some seams are very thick on Corbin. Their seat flats are very heavy duty vinyl and side panels a medium stretch vinyl.
I have some dry rot in threads and some of the vinyl at sharp creases along bottom. Suspect moisture was held there distroying the backing over time.
Really waiting to see mail ordered thickness and pliability of new marine vinyl before buying such a machine.
Oh! If anyone is interested I will make a paper pattern of vinyl parts as I take take the seams apart.
Think Corbin wanted shy of $500 at begining of summer not including ship if I remember. I am to fruggle with the C10 for that. Plus am cheap in retirement!
Take care sir.
PS: Oh thanks for trying to take care of Holiday too!
Note: Pulled seat cover this morning some seams are very thick on Corbin. Their seat flats are very heavy duty vinyl and side panels a medium stretch vinyl.
I have some dry rot in threads and some of the vinyl at sharp creases along bottom. Suspect moisture was held there distroying the backing over time.
Really waiting to see mail ordered thickness and pliability of new marine vinyl before buying such a machine.
Oh! If anyone is interested I will make a paper pattern of vinyl parts as I take take the seams apart.
Think Corbin wanted shy of $500 at begining of summer not including ship if I remember. I am to fruggle with the C10 for that. Plus am cheap in retirement!
Take care sir.
PS: Oh thanks for trying to take care of Holiday too!
I'm also retired/cheap/DIYer, so understand you plan.
My Corbin is a leather that I bought used 4 Connies ago. Great seat!
Recover in leather is high $$, so recover would prolly have to be a vinyl.
I checked around Houston and found out there are shops that will do repair's or new cover for less $$ than Corbin.
PLUS: My C-10 is a back up/spare bike, have the OEM seat, (someone else rides it occasionally :rotflmao, and because the seat is not "that bad",,,
Sooo, I've been putting off the project "for now".
{I think "for now" has been 5 years) :great:
Holiday made a bad {rookie} mistake. Hoping the others will cut him some slack and answer his questions.
I suspect the engine is shot.
Ride safe, Ted
My Corbin is a leather that I bought used 4 Connies ago. Great seat!
Recover in leather is high $$, so recover would prolly have to be a vinyl.
I checked around Houston and found out there are shops that will do repair's or new cover for less $$ than Corbin.
PLUS: My C-10 is a back up/spare bike, have the OEM seat, (someone else rides it occasionally :rotflmao
, and because the seat is not "that bad",,, Sooo, I've been putting off the project "for now".
{I think "for now" has been 5 years) :great:
Holiday made a bad {rookie} mistake. Hoping the others will cut him some slack and answer his questions.
I suspect the engine is shot.
Ride safe, Ted
Well do not know when I will learn the evils of eBay!?!?!?!
Vinyl arrived and was not heavy duty marine or even made with a backing.
Where folded stuck together in heat.and when pulled apart shows white creases! Light duty marine with backer would outweigh this fabric by a couple of tons in comparison................
Vinyl arrived and was not heavy duty marine or even made with a backing.
Where folded stuck together in heat.and when pulled apart shows white creases! Light duty marine with backer would outweigh this fabric by a couple of tons in comparison................
I grabbed a couple of pictures relevant to previous posts.
1st is the For Sale nameplate with fresh black paint on the bracket (I painted that today).
2nd is a better idea of how a heel shift pedal would add on.
Likely hinged under the foot peg and sst cable from the pedal to the ball joint on the linkage.
I found I could barely upshift from 1st to neutral wearing moccasins.
It hurt & I was slow doing it, I won't try it in traffic as-is.
1st is the For Sale nameplate with fresh black paint on the bracket (I painted that today).
2nd is a better idea of how a heel shift pedal would add on.
Likely hinged under the foot peg and sst cable from the pedal to the ball joint on the linkage.
I found I could barely upshift from 1st to neutral wearing moccasins.
It hurt & I was slow doing it, I won't try it in traffic as-is.
Attachments
Glued up my pieces of fracture fairings yesterday if that counts today. Used acetone mixed with chipped ABS plastic from a Samsung monitor case for glue and fill. Saved that one for just such occasion. Reinforced all with fiber glass mat encased in ABS goo. This is my second attempt at this ABS concoctions and glue up process. Had to do some when the C10 first came to me with broken plastic. The more I do it the better the end result. ABS is easy to repair now. But it is a learned skill most certainly. Will sand and primer the show sides today if get the chance. No finish coat till winter. I want to ride the rest of season.
On some of my repairs I plastic welded it back together on the back with a soldering iron, and then used ABS cement/glue. {available at Loews}
For extra strength, I glued pieces from another fairing over the welded sections.
NOTE: Remove paint on surface area's where you want to use the ABS glue and it works great.
Tour 1, In previous note, I was thinking it might be possible to install the heel shifter by adding linkage at gear shaft that comes out of the engine.
ie; Maybe you could add another Connie toe shifter behind the peg, and operate it with linkage. {similar to how the toe shifter is done now}…
It would take a little engineering, but it's a possibility..
Ride safe, Ted
For extra strength, I glued pieces from another fairing over the welded sections.
NOTE: Remove paint on surface area's where you want to use the ABS glue and it works great.
Tour 1, In previous note, I was thinking it might be possible to install the heel shifter by adding linkage at gear shaft that comes out of the engine.
ie; Maybe you could add another Connie toe shifter behind the peg, and operate it with linkage. {similar to how the toe shifter is done now}…
It would take a little engineering, but it's a possibility..
Ride safe, Ted
The seat for my C-10 was bought used and happened to be leather.
I liked the leather so much that when I had a seat built for my C-14, I decided damn the cost and had it made out of leather.. {Baldwin}
I won't say leather is that much better than a good vinyl, but I like it.
Ride safe, Ted
I liked the leather so much that when I had a seat built for my C-14, I decided damn the cost and had it made out of leather.. {Baldwin}
I won't say leather is that much better than a good vinyl, but I like it.
Ride safe, Ted
Thinking about scraping the foot peg means the heel shifter might need to tip up when the peg does, and a mechanical linkage would get complicated.connie_rider said:
I'd also like to make it easy to remove in case a mechanic gets spooked by stuff that doesn't look like the picture in the manual.
I'd also like something that doesn't change anything on the bike that already works just right.
What might work better is a more complicated part with a crank-arm that pulls the cable directly.
Thanks for the thoughts, though. I'm not sure what an aftermarket manufacturer would like to make.
Chrome & skulls seem popular :-[
Looking at my picture I realize the weldment would need a hinge that works with the peg hinge, so back to just cable.
Anyway this thread is supposed to be about done stuff, not thinking about doing stuff so :truce:
Attachments
I follow your reasoning. Cable might work.
Ride safe, Ted
Ride safe, Ted
Actually, late yesterday, but couldn’t do a test ride until today.
Frugal (AKA cheapskate) me hadn’t changed out the needle valve o-rings for the entire time I’ve owned the bike. They’ve always looked okay, so saw no need…… until recently when the bike started running like poo at idle and when coming off idle. This after I pulled the carbs to replace the pilot jets back to their OEM size. Thinking they were the problem, it was probably the o-rings all along. It was running funky when I went up to the National, but once in mid-range it ran great. Pretty much figured it out, but decided to wait until I had some free time once I got home.
Been waiting for a steel delivery for a trailer I’m working on, so decided to just do the deed – without – pulling the tank or the carbs. Didn’t want to tie up the lift for that long a period. Tried it once before with some long reach 90 deg screwdrivers I have, but gave up too early. Decided to just muddle through it this time ‘cause I was frustrated with the way the bike was running, especially around town.
NOTE: The one with the red rectangle around it sucks for carbs work. You can switch it to CW, or CCW direction, but not to where it will go either way just by changing the direction of the handle's rotation. Had I known that when I got it several years ago, I probably would have passed it by.
My .02
Anyway, the only carb that really gave me a fit was #2. The ZZR alternator I fitted up limited the amount of space I had to work under the carb. For all, I loosened and moved the inner fairing panels up out of the way (first one side then the other), then spread a shop towel out over the top of the engine case to catch the needle valve when it dropped free. With the o-ring replaced, I gooped up the valve with a glob of grease to hold it up in the carb pocket long enough for me to get the screwdriver blade engaged to screw it up in place. Once lightly bottomed out, I backed them out 2-1/2 turns. For now it seems to running very well, and hope it stays that way.
This little exercise also gave me a chance to adjust the fuel gauge pot for a setting that aligned itself when the bike just went on reserve. Fuel level was down pretty far in the tank, so I left it on MAIN and ran a clear line into a catch can. Using my Mity-Vac, I applied a vacuum to the petcock so fuel would flow until it stopped. That’s the point you’d normally need to switch over to RESERVE. I adjusted the pot so the gauge was right in the middle of the red section on the gauge. That area is close enough for me to know I best start looking for a station.
FWIW - 1024 miles until the bike hits 200K.
Frugal (AKA cheapskate) me hadn’t changed out the needle valve o-rings for the entire time I’ve owned the bike. They’ve always looked okay, so saw no need…… until recently when the bike started running like poo at idle and when coming off idle. This after I pulled the carbs to replace the pilot jets back to their OEM size. Thinking they were the problem, it was probably the o-rings all along. It was running funky when I went up to the National, but once in mid-range it ran great. Pretty much figured it out, but decided to wait until I had some free time once I got home.
Been waiting for a steel delivery for a trailer I’m working on, so decided to just do the deed – without – pulling the tank or the carbs. Didn’t want to tie up the lift for that long a period. Tried it once before with some long reach 90 deg screwdrivers I have, but gave up too early. Decided to just muddle through it this time ‘cause I was frustrated with the way the bike was running, especially around town.
NOTE: The one with the red rectangle around it sucks for carbs work. You can switch it to CW, or CCW direction, but not to where it will go either way just by changing the direction of the handle's rotation. Had I known that when I got it several years ago, I probably would have passed it by.
My .02
Anyway, the only carb that really gave me a fit was #2. The ZZR alternator I fitted up limited the amount of space I had to work under the carb. For all, I loosened and moved the inner fairing panels up out of the way (first one side then the other), then spread a shop towel out over the top of the engine case to catch the needle valve when it dropped free. With the o-ring replaced, I gooped up the valve with a glob of grease to hold it up in the carb pocket long enough for me to get the screwdriver blade engaged to screw it up in place. Once lightly bottomed out, I backed them out 2-1/2 turns. For now it seems to running very well, and hope it stays that way.
This little exercise also gave me a chance to adjust the fuel gauge pot for a setting that aligned itself when the bike just went on reserve. Fuel level was down pretty far in the tank, so I left it on MAIN and ran a clear line into a catch can. Using my Mity-Vac, I applied a vacuum to the petcock so fuel would flow until it stopped. That’s the point you’d normally need to switch over to RESERVE. I adjusted the pot so the gauge was right in the middle of the red section on the gauge. That area is close enough for me to know I best start looking for a station.
FWIW - 1024 miles until the bike hits 200K.
Started my tear down process, i broke my throttle cable on Sunday evening, and almost got it limped back home with the choke. had to trailer it the last few miles. so while i'm in there, i might as well go ahead and do a few other "heavy" maintenance tasks. its almost at 40K, so now seems as good a time as ever. Anyone in Virginia want to help me from making fatal errors in the process?
Installed knee-savers… typical of my talentless shop endeavors, it took several times the normal time; broke off a wobble hex driver, and resetting the brake switch took a whole lot longer – lots of fiddly-diddly and nothing worked; then I (finally) discovered I’d disconnected it altogether… Left side was refreshingly straightforward by comparison – moved the shifter one-spline and that seemed good… Riding impression, some incremental relief, but need to drop them another 8-10” for these geriatric knees – to achieve anything remotely called comfort.
:-[
:-[
I did the second oil change on my new (to me) '05. I've had it a month, and I'm loving this bike. I look forward to reading more about this bike and planning for future mods. We only have a month or two left of good riding left in South Dakota for the season, so I'm making it count.
Concourpilot
Tricycle
Adjusted floats using the clear tubing method
cra-z1000 said:
Yep -- Never had a RDL, but certainly agree in philosophy; Assuming I can do the long-pavement again, I'll probably get Rocky Mayer to build me another saddle -- on other bikes I have close to 200K on his products and it does raise a tad, not to mention keeping my prodigious caboose comfy... but I'm planning to wait until I have the rest of the bike more or less where I want/hope/whatever...
Did a leisurely 145 mile ride through some back roads of Chesterfield, Prince George, and Susex (VA) counties to get to Wakefield, VA to load up on a varied stash of peanuts at Plantation Peanuts. Been going there several years now, whose trip usually involves riding the Jamestown Ferry across the James River near Williamsburg, but not today. Stopped at Cowling's BBQ in Waverly for a nice BBQ sandwich + real onion rings for lunch. Very comfortable early on, but started getting a little warm around noon.
859 miles to 200K. Trying to decide if a 9700 mile D404 will allow me to get there. :motonoises:
859 miles to 200K. Trying to decide if a 9700 mile D404 will allow me to get there. :motonoises: