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What have your done to your C14 today

New air filter
https://imgur.com/f4TGcwR

before that this spring
* new front wheel
* new front rotors
* new front fender
 
New air filter. Topped up coolant reservoir tank (it was a bit low). Tomorrow is install Project D rad guard, and change oil.
 
Tri-J said:
Installed the MC Enterprises saddle bag guards.
Still trying to decide what front guards....
Click to expand...

:great: If it were me, I'd also install the MC Enterprises' Canyon Cages. They server their purpose well and look sharp + you can add highway pegs to them. Hey, wait ... I did just that (i.e., took my own advise) 
 
Just Cliff said:
Changed oil & filter, cleaned air filter & installed my 38th set of tires!  :??:

Cliff  :beerchug:
Click to expand...

Cliff, do you do your own tires?      I remove my rims and take them to a shop to have them put the tires on the rims.  I order the tires online.
 
Do to the crank  breaking in my daily driver I have been riding in the rain and she is a dirty girl. Today she gets a bath and I got new boots (Forma Adventure lows) the to box is a little thicker than what I was riding in before so I will also adjust the shifter lever to compensate.
 
connie_rider said:
Broken crank on your diesel?

Ouch..

Ted
Click to expand...

Yes Sir hard pill to swallow, it's going to require I refinance the truck that is oh so close to being paid off. You know the truck isn't stock, going to be about a $15,000 dollar replacement long block.
The good thing is the long block I am looking at is guaranteed 5 years up to 1,000 hp. The truck had put down 650 hp 1200 flbs to the rear wheels so it was about 800 hp at the crank.
 
connie_rider said:
Daily driver??  :-\
Geez,,,, I bet no one beats you to the next red light.  :great:

Ted
Click to expand...
It's amazing what you can do to a Duramax, it's addictive. LOL
When I first got the truck the wife deemed it my penis enlargement, after the addiction started and about 12 grand into modifications she nicknamed it the mistress.... It weighs in at 7,800 lbs and runs 12.88 @ 104 mph I am no wear near the fastest either there now a few 1,000 +  hp trucks running the streets around here.
 
Roger B said:
Just Cliff said:
Changed oil & filter, cleaned air filter & installed my 38th set of tires!  :??:

Cliff  :beerchug:
Click to expand...

Cliff, do you do your own tires?      I remove my rims and take them to a shop to have them put the tires on the rims.  I order the tires online.
Click to expand...

Yes I mount my own tires & buy them online.

Cliff  :beerchug:
 
Back ordered trunk arrived. Installed the Admore lights.
 

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I finally got off my butt and installed ZX-14 headers, Muzzy Mufflers, and valve today.
      Still have some fabricating to do, but I'll get it all worked out..

Ride safe, Ted
 
Steve in Sunny Fla said:
wearing it out on the dyno  ;)

Steve
Click to expand...

Heading out for the Bun Cooler tomorrow going to put you tune through extensive testing :motonoises:
 
New OEM air filter and cowling lowers, left and right. New rear tire replaced: $105 for Dunlop Roadsmart II in 190/50... !
 
changed the clutch fluid and put in the new spring, seal and spacer seal for the clutch slave cylinder. Used the Mighty Vac I bought to help this along, as I hear things are a bitch of a bitch if done any other way.

My clutch wasn't engaging until the lever was near the bar, but it would work great when the bike was heated up.

I'd say it needed cleaned. It's an 08, and who the hell know how the previous owner(s) took care of it? The dealer I bought it from last year did bleed the and refill the system as the fluid was barely yellow, and they said they do for all fluids. The clutch was fine last year, but it's been an extremely cold winter. So, I don't mind doing this.

1r66if.jpg

2po16p2.jpg
 
Installed some used lowering pegs I bought off a member here and adjusted the shift lever, but still playing with the brake lever. I think I ran out of adjustment and still not completely happy with how high the brake lever feels in relationship to the lowered peg.
 
Mabupa said:
Installed some used lowering pegs I bought off a member here and adjusted the shift lever, but still playing with the brake lever. I think I ran out of adjustment and still not completely happy with how high the brake lever feels in relationship to the lowered peg.
Click to expand...

I ran into same issue when I installed my Knight Design lowering pegs a couple weeks ago so yesterday I got the old Dremel tool out and cut about 1/4" off the push rod.
 
Nothing yet but have about 2,000 miles of Bun Cooler bugs to remove :motonoises:
 
Throttle 8 said:
New air filter. Topped up coolant reservoir tank (it was a bit low). Tomorrow is install Project D rad guard, and change oil.
Click to expand...

Throttle 8

Exactly how did you top off the coolant tank?
Best suggestion I've heard was to pull the top vent line off the radiator fill neck then using a turkey baster squeeze the coolant into the line until the tank shows proper level?
Is this what you did or do you have another trick.

Thanks,
 
Topped off the oil & coolant. Then installed Murph's bearing up shifter kit. This is a nice up grade. I immediately felt less free play in the shift lever and generally much better feel when up/down shifting. Not a bad deal for $ 21
 
Installed Piaa horns and replaced the license plate light with a small license plate/running/brake light...
The extra brake light pulses a few times when I brake, and then stays on..

Installing tires next..

Ride safe, Ted
 
Ordered up new PR4GTs.  Michelin site says PR5 GTs will  be available July 2019.
 
ron203 said:
Ordered up new PR4GTs.  Michelin site says PR5 GTs will  be available July 2019.
Click to expand...

Well I guess that answers my question as to if the RP5 is good for our heavy bikes... Bummer I don't think these stock bridgestone's will last that long, looks like RP4s are in my future.
 
Trying to get the last 1000 miles out of the OEM tires and like Ron203 posted, I have a new set of PR4GT's in the garage waiting to be mounted.
 
Buzzard said:
Throttle 8 said:
New air filter. Topped up coolant reservoir tank (it was a bit low). Tomorrow is install Project D rad guard, and change oil.
Click to expand...

Throttle 8

Exactly how did you top off the coolant tank?
Best suggestion I've heard was to pull the top vent line off the radiator fill neck then using a turkey baster squeeze the coolant into the line until the tank shows proper level?
Is this what you did or do you have another trick.

Thanks,
Click to expand...

I had the side Tupperware off to install the air filter. I could probably have changed the filter without disassembly, but it was raining and I had nothing else to do; plus I really wanted to do a good snoop around without the plastics for the very first time.
 
Avon agreed to replace my tires due to a wobble, but won't do so until they see my current tires..
So, I temporarily installed Shinko's so I can ship these back to Avon.

Ride safe, Ted
 
Picked up my spare set of C14 rims.  Had them powder coated flat black.  Really have been too busy shopping for farkels, in preparation for the Twisted Sisters.  New to me 2015 V1K..blank slate...
 
I went from angel gt's to bridgestone t31 gt's, at least for me there is not much of a handling difference. they perform in the rain as well as the angel's did.
 
Rode it to work for the time in a few weeks after finishing up some work.

Valves checked and shims adjusted, throttle bodies sync'ed, coolant changed, new air filter, clutch speed bleeders added and fluid flushed, new front tire, ECU flashed and full Muzzy ZX14 exhaust installed.  :motonoises:

This weekend I'll install the rest of the speed bleeders and flush the front and back brakes.
 
Installed Grip Puppies. Next to the SISF flash it is the best upgrade and I do not know why it took me so long. My right hand with the MotPort gloves was starting to cramp from gripping so hard to keep it from slipping even with a few wraps of rescue Tape. Rode home from camping via the freeway and it just takes the weight of my hand now to keep the throttle open and both hands feel relaxed and vibe free. Best 21 bucks ever!
 
ZXtasy said:
Installed Grip Puppies. Next to the SISF flash it is the best upgrade and I do not know why it took me so long. My right hand with the MotPort gloves was starting to cramp from gripping so hard to keep it from slipping even with a few wraps of rescue Tape. Rode home from camping via the freeway and it just takes the weight of my hand now to keep the throttle open and both hands feel relaxed and vibe free. Best 21 bucks ever!
Click to expand...

Have you had the opportunity to use the grip heaters with the and if so do the heaters work well with the puppies on?
 
Grant, they say they do not impede the heated grips, but I have not used the heat more than 5 times anyway, I have really good cold weather gloves.
 
Rode it with new Grip Puppies and tested heated grips. Turned them on high and it took maybe 1 or 2 minutes longer for me to start to feel the heat, but they were warming up, so yeah..they still work. :)
 
ZXtasy said:
Rode it with new Grip Puppies and tested heated grips. Turned them on high and it took maybe 1 or 2 minutes longer for me to start to feel the heat, but they were warming up, so yeah..they still work. :)
Click to expand...

Good to hear got to get me some.  :beerchug: :motonoises:
 
Got a passive key from the local dealership today. I really don't like going to dealerships. I know the part's $27 on partzilla.com and I know the dealership is going to want more. They want $32. OK, whatever.

If you are in the Atlanta area, you usually have to go through Mountain Motorsports as they have a couple locations and they are the closest Kawi dealership to the city. I call their Marietta location. Ask how much it'd be to program the ECU to my bike they say $110, which I had read somewhere on the forum before. I figured I'd ask around and gave their Lithia Springs location a call. Programming an ECU, $38.  :-\ So instead of a total cost of $150, it was going to be half that. Awesome. I order the key through their parts department. It's very interesting how the same company charges two different price for the same service. But of course I didn't mention that to the person on the phone.

This morning, I head over to the dealership first thing. Get there, pick up my part from the parts department, go to the service department, ask them to program it, no problem. I sign the thing, give them both keys. The service guy takes the key to the mechanic. Comes back a minute later, tells me this isn't a fob that'll run the bike, it's what the spare key goes into. Just a key holder. I tell him he's wrong, it's an RFID thing and it starts the bike, it just needs to be programmed to the ECU. He goes back in, the mechanic comes out and tells me the same thing. I tell them it's an RFID key, like a barcode. it's a passive key. They look at me like I have 6 eyes. The service guy tells the mechanic that he's on his side in the matter. I have no idea what this means. They are trying to form an ally against the crazy guy who thinks a $30 piece of plastic is actually a key? The mechanic says he's never heard of something like that and that he'd have to do research on it. So I ask him to please do the "research" while I go to talk to the parts department. He's not happy with my request. I go back to the parts guy to ask him if the key came with a number or anything to put in the Kawasaki program. He goes and talks to the mechanics while I google how the programming works. 10 minutes later, parts guy comes back to tell me they figured it out. I pay the money and hop on my bike and leave.

The system's only been out for 10 years. I guess it's normal that they've no idea how to program it. I'll try again in 10 years.
 
They probably quoted you a price off the cuff, too. But that's scary. I'm near the one in Buford. I bought my Goldwing there and they had a deal on tire mounting @ $26 each, so I got two tires. When the C-14 needs help, I'm going to have to think through my options.  :(
 
okrider said:
Got a passive key from the local dealership today. I really don't like going to dealerships. I know the part's $27 on partzilla.com and I know the dealership is going to want more. They want $32. OK, whatever.

If you are in the Atlanta area, you usually have to go through Mountain Motorsports as they have a couple locations and they are the closest Kawi dealership to the city. I call their Marietta location. Ask how much it'd be to program the ECU to my bike they say $110, which I had read somewhere on the forum before. I figured I'd ask around and gave their Lithia Springs location a call. Programming an ECU, $38.  :-\ So instead of a total cost of $150, it was going to be half that. Awesome. I order the key through their parts department. It's very interesting how the same company charges two different price for the same service. But of course I didn't mention that to the person on the phone.

This morning, I head over to the dealership first thing. Get there, pick up my part from the parts department, go to the service department, ask them to program it, no problem. I sign the thing, give them both keys. The service guy takes the key to the mechanic. Comes back a minute later, tells me this isn't a fob that'll run the bike, it's what the spare key goes into. Just a key holder. I tell him he's wrong, it's an RFID thing and it starts the bike, it just needs to be programmed to the ECU. He goes back in, the mechanic comes out and tells me the same thing. I tell them it's an RFID key, like a barcode. it's a passive key. They look at me like I have 6 eyes. The service guy tells the mechanic that he's on his side in the matter. I have no idea what this means. They are trying to form an ally against the crazy guy who thinks a $30 piece of plastic is actually a key? The mechanic says he's never heard of something like that and that he'd have to do research on it. So I ask him to please do the "research" while I go to talk to the parts department. He's not happy with my request. I go back to the parts guy to ask him if the key came with a number or anything to put in the Kawasaki program. He goes and talks to the mechanics while I google how the programming works. 10 minutes later, parts guy comes back to tell me they figured it out. I pay the money and hop on my bike and leave.

The system's only been out for 10 years. I guess it's normal that they've no idea how to program it. I'll try again in 10 years.
Click to expand...

well, after reading this exact posting on the other forum... I just went ahead and copy/pasted it here also, as it should be shared knowledge, and a lot of folks don't follow both forums...

here

sad the mentally lacking tech people expected to operate the machine to 'program' said installed, and other parts, simply can't or don't read the book... or the screen in this case, for the CD that came with the KDS software...

I found, and downloaded the KAWASAKI DIAGNOSTIC SYSTEM KDS VER. 3 INSTRUCTION MANUAL Dated 12/2009, Version 3.0.9
(kawasaki p/n 57001-1650)
it comes on the actual software disc, that came with the KDS unit....duh.
completely free online... can't remember where, nor would I send out copies, as it is marked as copywritten...
But... it completely, step by step, walks thru all the programming.
I've found it priceless in researching 'what is/is not' required for replacement of any part that ties into the "smart parts" of this bike...

might want to highlight, and print that 'bold letter stuff', and hand carry it to the OWNER of that dealership.. and he can hand it to the "tech".....

having noted this, they should also have the newer versions, that accomodate the linked brakes, and new passive 'card' fob...

I think it is now
Manufacturer # 57001-1802

Superseded part number(s)
57001-1650

google it up.
 
MAN OF BLUES said:
okrider said:
Got a passive key from the local dealership today. I really don't like going to dealerships. I know the part's $27 on partzilla.com and I know the dealership is going to want more. They want $32. OK, whatever.

If you are in the Atlanta area, you usually have to go through Mountain Motorsports as they have a couple locations and they are the closest Kawi dealership to the city. I call their Marietta location. Ask how much it'd be to program the ECU to my bike they say $110, which I had read somewhere on the forum before. I figured I'd ask around and gave their Lithia Springs location a call. Programming an ECU, $38.  :-\ So instead of a total cost of $150, it was going to be half that. Awesome. I order the key through their parts department. It's very interesting how the same company charges two different price for the same service. But of course I didn't mention that to the person on the phone.

This morning, I head over to the dealership first thing. Get there, pick up my part from the parts department, go to the service department, ask them to program it, no problem. I sign the thing, give them both keys. The service guy takes the key to the mechanic. Comes back a minute later, tells me this isn't a fob that'll run the bike, it's what the spare key goes into. Just a key holder. I tell him he's wrong, it's an RFID thing and it starts the bike, it just needs to be programmed to the ECU. He goes back in, the mechanic comes out and tells me the same thing. I tell them it's an RFID key, like a barcode. it's a passive key. They look at me like I have 6 eyes. The service guy tells the mechanic that he's on his side in the matter. I have no idea what this means. They are trying to form an ally against the crazy guy who thinks a $30 piece of plastic is actually a key? The mechanic says he's never heard of something like that and that he'd have to do research on it. So I ask him to please do the "research" while I go to talk to the parts department. He's not happy with my request. I go back to the parts guy to ask him if the key came with a number or anything to put in the Kawasaki program. He goes and talks to the mechanics while I google how the programming works. 10 minutes later, parts guy comes back to tell me they figured it out. I pay the money and hop on my bike and leave.

The system's only been out for 10 years. I guess it's normal that they've no idea how to program it. I'll try again in 10 years.
Click to expand...

well, after reading this exact posting on the other forum... I just went ahead and copy/pasted it here also, as it should be shared knowledge, and a lot of folks don't follow both forums...

here

sad the mentally lacking tech people expected to operate the machine to 'program' said installed, and other parts, simply can't or don't read the book... or the screen in this case, for the CD that came with the KDS software...

I found, and downloaded the KAWASAKI DIAGNOSTIC SYSTEM KDS VER. 3 INSTRUCTION MANUAL Dated 12/2009, Version 3.0.9
(kawasaki p/n 57001-1650)
it comes on the actual software disc, that came with the KDS unit....duh.
completely free online... can't remember where, nor would I send out copies, as it is marked as copywritten...
But... it completely, step by step, walks thru all the programming.
I've found it priceless in researching 'what is/is not' required for replacement of any part that ties into the "smart parts" of this bike...

might want to highlight, and print that 'bold letter stuff', and hand carry it to the OWNER of that dealership.. and he can hand it to the "tech".....

having noted this, they should also have the newer versions, that accomodate the linked brakes, and new passive 'card' fob...

I think it is now
Manufacturer # 57001-1802

Superseded part number(s)
57001-1650

google it up.
Click to expand...



Thanks for the info MOB.
 
Installed foam grip covers and the Throttlemeister CC I had previously used on my old ZX-14.  :motonoises:

I also ordered the fender extender and Bearinged upshifter from Murph's kits. Picked up some Tech Spec tank protectors as well.

 
 
Installed ram phone holder.
 

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Killed a buncha skeeters wit it tonight riding home from a late meeting in Collegeport.  Just got home.  Started at 4AM and finishing up about 1AM the next morning.  Connie got me home safe but bug splattered.
 
finally got the Mich PR4 GT's mounted :beerchug:
very nice ride and drive improvement. so much easier to get into/out of corners.
got 6500 mi from the OEM tires and they were about shot.
 
I drained the break in oil from the engine and the final drive.  I finally have more than 600 miles on it going to work and back.  Holy cow was that factory oil filter tight!  2 different filter wrenches wouldn't budge it, finally bought a strap wrench that got the job done...  So far, I love this bike!
 
i just got back from North Dakota, the c-14 did great. round trip miles about 3800. i went to see my mom and do some work around her place for a couple of weeks. Now it's time for another oil change.
 
Removed most of the fairings looking for the key from the fob I dropped in there last week.
I was pretty sure it was still there but never found it. I did however get more familiar with my bike LOL. While I was in there I pulled the air filter out, vacuumed it off and reinstalled it wow shocked at how dirty it got in just 7,000 miles.
 
Washed it and took some Mothers clay bar to it then some rubbing compound and got rid of the scratches on the tank from the tank bag. I also polished the windscreen, oh and took all the warning stickers off. She is sure a good looking bike...
 
First oil change. Used Shell T6 5W-40. Seems to like it.
Rode it over 200 miles in two days. So far so good.
 
Grant,
Have you checked this area?  The Cowling Center in between the exterior (painted) piece and the inner (black) part?  I fumbled a screw and it fell deep down in there. Took me awhile before I finally tore it apart and located it.
Good luck!
Gilbysan
 

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Grant said:
Removed most of the fairings looking for the key from the fob I dropped in there last week.
I was pretty sure it was still there but never found it. I did however get more familiar with my bike LOL. While I was in there I pulled the air filter out, vacuumed it off and reinstalled it wow shocked at how dirty it got in just 7,000 miles.
Click to expand...

There is a black hole in the fairing. What goes in never is to be found again.
 
gilbysan said:
Grant,
Have you checked this area?  The Cowling Center in between the exterior (painted) piece and the inner (black) part?  I fumbled a screw and it fell deep down in there. Took me awhile before I finally tore it apart and located it.
Good luck!
Gilbysan
Yes sir I did. Where ever it went it must have made its way out???
Click to expand...
gsun said:
Grant said:
Removed most of the fairings looking for the key from the fob I dropped in there last week.
I was pretty sure it was still there but never found it. I did however get more familiar with my bike LOL. While I was in there I pulled the air filter out, vacuumed it off and reinstalled it wow shocked at how dirty it got in just 7,000 miles.
Click to expand...
Yes sir there is and ironically my bike is black. You think that makes it a blackhole???
There is a black hole in the fairing. What goes in never is to be found again.
Click to expand...
 
I tried to take the front wheel off for a tire change but had a huge fail. I was able to remove three of the bolts for the two calipers, but the forth one is stuck. stripped out, broke off an easy-out inside of it. Don't know what to do now, that bolt is shaped so that you can't get a vice grips on it.
 
Crap!  Got any pics of the broken off bolt and easy out I can see maybe?  Not going to be easy I know but there must be a way...
Gilbysan
 
I even tried cutting a slot in the head of the bolt with a dremel and using an impact screwdriver. The bit got all bent outta shape. I'll get pictures when I can.
 
Matthew,
Looking like maybe you will need to remove the assy. from the fork tube and have it machined/drilled out then heli-coil it back together...
Hope not but it doesn't sound good. 

Keep the faith!
Gilbysan
 
I added some Grip Puppies.  Due to multiple injuries to my throttle-hand thumb, I have some weakness gripping the throttle, and fatigue over longer rides.  I'm hoping the larger diameter of the grip+Puppy, and the additional 'traction' of the material over the stock rubber grip, will alleviate the problem.  Dry run sitting in the garage with gloves on was positive!  Can't wait to see how it goes.  Should also help create smoother throttle application with the larger diameter as well.  Bonus!
 
Matthew said:
I tried to take the front wheel off for a tire change but had a huge fail. I was able to remove three of the bolts for the two calipers, but the forth one is stuck. stripped out, broke off an easy-out inside of it. Don't know what to do know, that bolt is shaped so that you can't get a vice grips on it.
Click to expand...

Can you grind flat spots in the head so you can get vice grips on it?
 
ECU is on the way back from Steve! Can't wait to try it. My Nephew with the FJR will be surprised....Coolant flush, air filter & Oil change.
 
I installed 1 5/8" bar risers with a ram ball mount from Murphs.  My hands aren't tingly now when I get to work and the overall I'm more comfortable on the bike.  My mirrors now show more road behind me, instead of just bar ends and saddle bags, which is a plus.  The only downside is that my hands aren't in the dead air behind the mirrors anymore...  Overall, well worth the money!
 
ghostrider990 said:
Wingedspirit said:
ECU is on the way back from Steve! Can't wait to try it. My Nephew with the FJR will be surprised....Coolant flush, air filter & Oil change.
Click to expand...

Mileage?  ;)
Click to expand...

I'll let you know this weekend ghostrider990. Just put it in tonight. It will get some miles on it this weekend for sure!
 
ghostrider990 said:
Wingedspirit said:
ECU is on the way back from Steve! Can't wait to try it. My Nephew with the FJR will be surprised....Coolant flush, air filter & Oil change.
Click to expand...

Mileage?  ;)
Click to expand...

Classic flash mileage. 2009 17k miles. Slip on muffler.
Did a 29 mile rural route to start with. 55-65 mph some stops along the way = 42.7 mpg with a few
hard roll ons. That's about 4 higher than usual.
Reset gauge and rode a 10 mile stint on the freeway with rolling hills at a steady 70 mph with gusty winds netted 50.6 mpg. Did not reset gauge and kept riding another 15 miles rural 55-65 mph. It only dropped to 49.7. I'm more than happy with that especially considering the extra power and smoothness.
 
Change oil & oil filter, and replaced final hear oil. Inspected tires, brake pads, etc. Found my front pads are about shot. Guess they should be at 45K miles. Changing out asap.
 
Canyon cages were down the list of things I want to add, but after almost dropping it twice already I think they're moving up near the top!
 
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