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What have your done to your C14 today
- Thread starter COGnosticator
- Start date
Plugged the rear tire, ready to ride again.
Just have to lessen the hooligan activities now :'(
Just have to lessen the hooligan activities now :'(
Pulled the forks for service, removed TPMS's for battery replacement, changed oil & filter, cleaned air filter, ordered brake pads. Still have to flush fluids, grease stem bearings & probably mount some new tires since their broke down. I should be ready then. :motonoises:
Attachments
IBAJIM said:
I wasn't paying attention & typed out of order, sorry about. Stem bearings are yet to be done, but I will post condition. They have been replaced once with OEM bearings.
Tundra said:
No aircraft, just my shop at the house with assortment of stuff . Thanks!
Kzz1king said:
Cool. I believe you're really going to enjoy the MRP flash!
I agree. I know "I LIKE IT"!!
Ride safe, Ted
Ride safe, Ted
It won't be that much of a step up.
After all, "stock" to "anything" is a heck of a step. :rotflmao:
But, your gonna feel it...
Ride safe, Ted
After all, "stock" to "anything" is a heck of a step. :rotflmao:
But, your gonna feel it...
Ride safe, Ted
Kzz1king, had a few moments today... I gathered the general various Concours 14 configurations of flashes / hardware dyno readouts from one of the primary flash producers and combined into a single graph - attached a PNG. I know the 2 best flash producers have been tweaking and gaining performance so these charts may be a little outdated but still relative to view general performance.Kzz1king said:
Unless really punching it the graphing echoes what others are informing for best performance and the smallest $ Slip-On and good flash from one of the primary providers is the key.
If you are looking for another big bump - FWIW: I have added the Full Area P Exhaust and the upgraded Area P flash and this is by far and away a HUGE WAKE UP of this machine, no comparison to flashed stock exhaust which was flat passed 8,000. NOT ANY MORE and with upgraded Area P flash there is no perceptible down low loss as I understand was present at first onset of flashing for full Area P.
Attachments
Tempting Second and Blue!
I got through the mud and was able to put 70 miles on today. I have a 10 with 64,000 on it. The first thing I noticed is how much smoother it is at low rpm. With the clutch out it rolls along at 1,000 rpm. I can ease up and down without a glitch or a stall. I had a little snatch before and that is all gone.
Shifting. My shifting was not good last year even with a flash, I installed a bearing up at the end of the season. It really helped. I recommend for higher mileage bikes. The plastic bushing in mine was about gone. Shifting was great before and is still flawless.
Power. To be honest I am not sure I can tell. Its been 5 months since I rode it before the upgrade.I did some roll ons from 4,000 rpm in first. 120 came up in a very short time. Definitely fast.
Mileage. Had replaced battery so a clean slate. Averaged 27mpg in 70 miles. Disclaimer, temp was 45 degrees and average speed was 85-90. Its going to be fun!
Wayne
I got through the mud and was able to put 70 miles on today. I have a 10 with 64,000 on it. The first thing I noticed is how much smoother it is at low rpm. With the clutch out it rolls along at 1,000 rpm. I can ease up and down without a glitch or a stall. I had a little snatch before and that is all gone.
Shifting. My shifting was not good last year even with a flash, I installed a bearing up at the end of the season. It really helped. I recommend for higher mileage bikes. The plastic bushing in mine was about gone. Shifting was great before and is still flawless.
Power. To be honest I am not sure I can tell. Its been 5 months since I rode it before the upgrade.I did some roll ons from 4,000 rpm in first. 120 came up in a very short time. Definitely fast.
Mileage. Had replaced battery so a clean slate. Averaged 27mpg in 70 miles. Disclaimer, temp was 45 degrees and average speed was 85-90. Its going to be fun!
Wayne
new front tire, Had right at 8000 miles on a Mlchelin Road 4. Replaced with a Road 5. Have 8000 miles on the rear Road 4 and have a Road 5 waiting for the 4 to wear down. Also change engine oil and final drive oil. During this lock down madness sure I'll be doing more
IBAJIM said:
EDIT : All 16 valves were tight - replaced all 16 shims since I would only be able to shift around 1 shim. Clearances are now in the middle of the range to the upper end of the range. Got the cam cover installed and all the braces installed & electrical connectors snapped back together.
The engine started right -up , didn't even crank for more than a second before it fired-up. And sounds great.
Now to remove the gas tank and replace the fuel filter and install a hose to the cylinder #2 vacuum port. I need to check the throttle body balance. Not looking forward to that. Bought a right angled long reach screwdriver like the one Fred uses in his video, but it looks kinda tricky to accomplish to me. Need to also get an adjustable inspection mirror.
[quote author=IBA
EDIT : All 16 valves were tight - replaced all 16 shims since I would only be able to shift around 1 shim. Clearances are now in the middle of the range to the upper end of the range. Got the cam cover installed and all the braces installed & electrical connectors snapped back together.
Now to remove the gas tank and replace the fuel filter and install a hose to the cylinder #2 vacuum port. I need to check the throttle body balance. Not looking forward to that. Bought a right angled long reach screwdriver like the one Fred uses in his video, but it looks kinda tricky to accomplish to me. Need to also get an adjustable inspection mirror.
[/quote]
I did a TBA and that #2 nipple was a bugger.
I bought a hemostat type locking long reach tool at a sporting goods store. They use them to remove fish looks from inside a fish. Worked well and was much less expensive than a medical grade Hemostat I also suggest a lighted inspection mirror it helps to give a bit of light in a very dark area.
EDIT : All 16 valves were tight - replaced all 16 shims since I would only be able to shift around 1 shim. Clearances are now in the middle of the range to the upper end of the range. Got the cam cover installed and all the braces installed & electrical connectors snapped back together.
Now to remove the gas tank and replace the fuel filter and install a hose to the cylinder #2 vacuum port. I need to check the throttle body balance. Not looking forward to that. Bought a right angled long reach screwdriver like the one Fred uses in his video, but it looks kinda tricky to accomplish to me. Need to also get an adjustable inspection mirror.
[/quote]
I did a TBA and that #2 nipple was a bugger.
I bought a hemostat type locking long reach tool at a sporting goods store. They use them to remove fish looks from inside a fish. Worked well and was much less expensive than a medical grade Hemostat I also suggest a lighted inspection mirror it helps to give a bit of light in a very dark area.
I have a few hemostats. I'll find out if at least one is long enough. And I bought an adjustable inspection mirror yesterday off Ebay. If my hemostat isn't long enough, I'll stop at the sporting goods store in town - thanks for that heads-up, Bear.
I tried to get at that #2 nipple after I re-installed the cam cover. I might have been able to reach it before I installed the cam cover, but wasn't thinking about doing that at that time !
I need to pull the tank to replace the sock filter, so I'll get at the nipple then as Fred shows in his video.
Bear: How far off was the balance and how many miles at that time was on your bike ?
I tried to get at that #2 nipple after I re-installed the cam cover. I might have been able to reach it before I installed the cam cover, but wasn't thinking about doing that at that time !
I need to pull the tank to replace the sock filter, so I'll get at the nipple then as Fred shows in his video.
Bear: How far off was the balance and how many miles at that time was on your bike ?
HF has some decent 16" long reach pliers you should take a look at. I have not tried these to put vacuum lines on for TBA though. $11 for the pair seems like a deal.
https://www.harborfreight.com/16-in-long-reach-pliers-set-2-pc-64082.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/16-in-long-reach-pliers-set-2-pc-64082.html
IBAJIM said:
Let's see about 40K on my 08. The left to right banks were very close. The center screw was impossible for me to adjust but they were w/i 2 from each other. Cly 1 to 2 was off by about 8 and 3 to 4 was about 6. Cylinder 1 and 4 were highest I ended up leveling them all at the highest point and it runs smooth. You will need to adjust you idle speed after adjusting because it will likely creep upward, mine did.
IBAJIM said:
Bear: Thanks for your response.
Mounted the new Shinko Raven front tire Wednesday and brought the wheel up to the independent MC shop to have it spin balanced.
No weights needed !!
Installed the wheel and fender ( now with a Fenda Extender ) and installed the rebuilt calipers and new brake pads and of course bled the brakes.
Need to receive the new thermostat gasket before I can do the throttle body balance. I'm hoping I won't need to adjust the screw that balances cylinders 1&2 and cylinders 3&4 - that would be nice. Getting at that screw looks kinda tricky. Adjusting the individual air bleed screws on each TB doesn't look too difficult, tho.
Finally got around to working on the bike. Took all the plastic off, first 3 chores out of the way:
1) Air Filter
<a href="https://ibb.co/6X0V2mf"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/6X0V2mf/C14-Air-Filter.jpg" alt="C14-Air-Filter" border="0"></a>
2) Fuel Filter
<a href="https://ibb.co/cyHwxgq"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/cyHwxgq/C14-Fuel-Filter.jpg" alt="C14-Fuel-Filter" border="0"></a>
3) Murphs Risers
1) Air Filter
<a href="https://ibb.co/6X0V2mf"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/6X0V2mf/C14-Air-Filter.jpg" alt="C14-Air-Filter" border="0"></a>
2) Fuel Filter
<a href="https://ibb.co/cyHwxgq"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/cyHwxgq/C14-Fuel-Filter.jpg" alt="C14-Fuel-Filter" border="0"></a>
3) Murphs Risers
30k on my 2010 and my fuel filter looked just like that...black as coal and the bike ran fine, even after I got the "F1" error on my display. How many miles were on your bike?
Received replacement headlight last night and properly disinfected it. Will install this Sunday and
also install mounting brackets I finally found in third box of parts. Ordered windscreen nuts from UK, will be interesting to see how long it takes to receive them. Last item on the tool tray that mounts on top of the battery box, there is a tab for a bolt I think, will need to repair with some sheet of abs and abs glue. Then will get it inspected and try to find title to register it. Some future farkles...rifle windshield to go with rifle windscreen...might still have grip heaters will need to hook them up if so, need to see if throttlemeister still works and get rust removed from tank. Also need to check I think I also installed an inline filter. So basically getting reacquainted with Connie. Thats half the fun.
also install mounting brackets I finally found in third box of parts. Ordered windscreen nuts from UK, will be interesting to see how long it takes to receive them. Last item on the tool tray that mounts on top of the battery box, there is a tab for a bolt I think, will need to repair with some sheet of abs and abs glue. Then will get it inspected and try to find title to register it. Some future farkles...rifle windshield to go with rifle windscreen...might still have grip heaters will need to hook them up if so, need to see if throttlemeister still works and get rust removed from tank. Also need to check I think I also installed an inline filter. So basically getting reacquainted with Connie. Thats half the fun.
Croach,, C-14?
Ride safe, Ted
PS: See your in Spring. I'm in North Houston.
Ride safe, Ted
PS: See your in Spring. I'm in North Houston.
IBAJIM said:
EDIT : Installed a new thermostat today and flushed & refilled the cooling system.
Need to install a vacuum hose on TB #2, but checked the balance on #3 & #4 and they are matched very closely. So I'm hoping #1 & #2 will be close to #3 & #4. If so, I'll just adjust #1 & #2 air bleed screws to match #3 & #4.
Next up is to remove the gas tank, install a hose to TB #2 vacuum port and inspect the replace the fuel filter if necessary.
Finally finishing the install on my Annitori Quick Shifter.
Had a problem with the first wiring harness, but their customer service was great!
Sent a replacement next day.
Had a problem with the first wiring harness, but their customer service was great!
Sent a replacement next day.
The lights are motolights from motolight.com
I had these Laying around for years, originally bought to caliper mount on a BMW. I found a set of bar clamp mounts to work out a solution on the bars up front.
The kits come with all mounting gear, wiring and life time bulbs. Here is a pic that you can see the shape of the lights
I had these Laying around for years, originally bought to caliper mount on a BMW. I found a set of bar clamp mounts to work out a solution on the bars up front.
The kits come with all mounting gear, wiring and life time bulbs. Here is a pic that you can see the shape of the lights
Attachments
Did...
oil/filter change
final drive change
brake fluid change
clutch fluid change
coolant change
Might as well since it's just sitting more than anything else right now.
oil/filter change
final drive change
brake fluid change
clutch fluid change
coolant change
Might as well since it's just sitting more than anything else right now.
Latest items done on my C14 this past weekend...
- oil/filter change
- air filter change
- final gear oil change
- bearing shifter installation
- exhaust cam sensor o-ring installation
- tightened header nuts + installed some missing with new locking flange nuts
- new radiator + guard installed (front leak on old rad due to spirited ride)
- new silicone hoses + clamps
Thinking I should do the thermostat after reading IBAJim's post. How many miles on your ride IBAJim? Also where did you order thermostat + O-ring?
- oil/filter change
- air filter change
- final gear oil change
- bearing shifter installation
- exhaust cam sensor o-ring installation
- tightened header nuts + installed some missing with new locking flange nuts
- new radiator + guard installed (front leak on old rad due to spirited ride)
- new silicone hoses + clamps
Thinking I should do the thermostat after reading IBAJim's post. How many miles on your ride IBAJim? Also where did you order thermostat + O-ring?
Ordered a bunch of rear diff drain plug crush washers from Ebay super cheap then ordered a bunch of cap o-rings and a couple oil filter from my local dealer. They're open but doing curbside pick up only. :-(
I have an 08 with 125k on it. So in preparation for what I thought was gonna be a big summer, I did some preventative maintenance.
I rebuilt the clutch master and slave cylinders. Also purged brakes with new fluid.
Inspected the clutch plates for wear. They were all on the high side of usable tolerance, although the stack up of all the plates together was .008 under what the book calls for as new. Since the steel plates measured same as new, all the wear was on the friction plates. Not bad for 125k miles.
I changed the star springs while it was apart. The bottom one was shiny where the finger comes off the circular portion of the spring, but no signs of cracks, to the eye. I was feeling just a touch of the double bump last fall so I wanted to have a look.
Also checked the spring plate free play, the book says that could cause a double bump feel in the lever. It was at the high end of tolerance but when I tried the .010 thicker steel plate it caused the free play to disappear, so I put it back to where it was at .025. The book says .028 is high limit.
Also changed out the fuel pump, filter and regulator. I used a kit from Quantum which was excellent. The regulator was extra.
This is the second time I've replaced the fuel pump, the first time was at about 60k miles and within 200 miles of a filter change, when it died, which I thought was odd. I wasn't aware of an aftermarket component kit back then so I put in a whole new pump, next day air from Kawasaki $$.
Also found a new to me oem parts house out of Indianapolis called Partshark.com. 5-10% cheaper than Ron Ayers and fast. Plus you can call a knowledgeable person on the phone when you screw your order up. Most places are email only these days. He fixed it and refunded the amount upon shipping. Perfect transaction as they say. Oh, it was only 3 or 4 days from order to drop off at my door. They must have a warehouse very close by.
I rebuilt the clutch master and slave cylinders. Also purged brakes with new fluid.
Inspected the clutch plates for wear. They were all on the high side of usable tolerance, although the stack up of all the plates together was .008 under what the book calls for as new. Since the steel plates measured same as new, all the wear was on the friction plates. Not bad for 125k miles.
I changed the star springs while it was apart. The bottom one was shiny where the finger comes off the circular portion of the spring, but no signs of cracks, to the eye. I was feeling just a touch of the double bump last fall so I wanted to have a look.
Also checked the spring plate free play, the book says that could cause a double bump feel in the lever. It was at the high end of tolerance but when I tried the .010 thicker steel plate it caused the free play to disappear, so I put it back to where it was at .025. The book says .028 is high limit.
Also changed out the fuel pump, filter and regulator. I used a kit from Quantum which was excellent. The regulator was extra.
This is the second time I've replaced the fuel pump, the first time was at about 60k miles and within 200 miles of a filter change, when it died, which I thought was odd. I wasn't aware of an aftermarket component kit back then so I put in a whole new pump, next day air from Kawasaki $$.
Also found a new to me oem parts house out of Indianapolis called Partshark.com. 5-10% cheaper than Ron Ayers and fast. Plus you can call a knowledgeable person on the phone when you screw your order up. Most places are email only these days. He fixed it and refunded the amount upon shipping. Perfect transaction as they say. Oh, it was only 3 or 4 days from order to drop off at my door. They must have a warehouse very close by.
Kzz1king said:
Test ride tomorrow!
Finished up the last few remaining items....hoping tomorrow will be nice enough to go for a quick ride
Took in to get done:
- TPMS battery change
- Tire change (Michelin Road 5 GT front and rear)
Did myself:
- Final drive spindle grease
- Rear brake pad change
- Front brake pad change
- Brake fluid change
- Clutch fluid change
- Installed fender extender
- Installed swingarm sliders
- Installed front axle sliders
- Put all the plastics/fairings back on
Took in to get done:
- TPMS battery change
- Tire change (Michelin Road 5 GT front and rear)
Did myself:
- Final drive spindle grease
- Rear brake pad change
- Front brake pad change
- Brake fluid change
- Clutch fluid change
- Installed fender extender
- Installed swingarm sliders
- Installed front axle sliders
- Put all the plastics/fairings back on
Tundra said:
Tundra, am interested to see how you like The Hammer flash. I currently have the MRP flash.
Road Runner,
I'm looking to improve my lower RPM throttle/acceleration, it's kind of sluggish for a big engine at the lower throttle settings (for me)
I couldn't locate reviews for this flash, I believe the engine braking flashes are the more popular choice. I will run this thoroughly in different conditions prior to any review, not wanting to mislead anyone into a flash that may not be best suited for them.
This should best match what I want in a flash.
I'm looking to improve my lower RPM throttle/acceleration, it's kind of sluggish for a big engine at the lower throttle settings (for me)
I couldn't locate reviews for this flash, I believe the engine braking flashes are the more popular choice. I will run this thoroughly in different conditions prior to any review, not wanting to mislead anyone into a flash that may not be best suited for them.
This should best match what I want in a flash.
Tundra said:
I hear you Tundra. There are times I would like the extra pep, but I wouldn't want it to affect safe parking lot maneuvers too... Years ago I had a Yamaha VMax and it definitely had the extra pep . I had to be careful not to grab too much throttle when I didn't need it.
Hope it's what you're looking for!
You can look at and compare the plots.
Ride safe, Ted
Ride safe, Ted
Just shipped my ECU out to Steve for the MRP flash
Installed my new Russel Day Long seat that arrived in the mail, will write a review in a few months.
That thing was packaged so well! Coulda gone to Lagos OK
Sat on it, feels and looks real good - All leather -black with small diamonds.
Got on 2 brand new RS2's
New oils and valve adjustment.
Brake fluid changed.
New airfilter
Throttle bodies synced
New Cee Bailey windscreen.
Detailed all the bugs off.
Waxed
Totally ready to rock.
And its snowing out.....
FU Corona
FU Winter
Nick
That thing was packaged so well! Coulda gone to Lagos OK
Sat on it, feels and looks real good - All leather -black with small diamonds.
Got on 2 brand new RS2's
New oils and valve adjustment.
Brake fluid changed.
New airfilter
Throttle bodies synced
New Cee Bailey windscreen.
Detailed all the bugs off.
Waxed
Totally ready to rock.
And its snowing out.....
FU Corona
FU Winter
Nick
Dropped off the bike for valve adjustment w/Murph's valve kit @KFG. Thanks to the NW guys on these forums for the reco!
In addition to valves, getting new rear suspension Penske 8983. Can't decide on the front for a Traxxion AK20 or just getting rebuilt/valved/re-sprung from the OEM. When you go with the AK20, does that require risers?
In addition to valves, getting new rear suspension Penske 8983. Can't decide on the front for a Traxxion AK20 or just getting rebuilt/valved/re-sprung from the OEM. When you go with the AK20, does that require risers?
Installed new brake pads, scoured and cleaned up rotors. Went fora ride to bed pads, engaged ABS before flushing and then flushed brake and clutch fluid.
NOTE: First time I did it 2 years ago I forgot to do the rear facing bleed on the rear brake. Nasty stuff came out of it. Everything else looked good.
NOTE: First time I did it 2 years ago I forgot to do the rear facing bleed on the rear brake. Nasty stuff came out of it. Everything else looked good.
Bought a MoTool V3 digital suspension tool to set the sag. Installed the front fender extender from Murph's and after reading Kzz1king's post I will be bleeding that rear facing bleed screw on the rear caliper. I'm pretty sure I missed that one when I did them last month.. :sign0104:
Gumby said:
Put some thoughts down in this thread - http://forum.cog-online.org/accessories-c14/throttle-lock-77842/
While looking at the Atlas, I came across this list.
Lots of differing throttle locks. {for your viewing pleasure}
https://www.bing.com/search?q=atlas%20throttle%20lock%20price&qs=n&form=QBRE&sp=-1&pq=atlas%20throttle%20lock%20price&sc=1-25&sk=&cvid=CE70CD71912B42D4AEE4843B6E0E884A
I have a Vista Cruise on my bike. Looks good, small/compact, and I like how quickly I can use it with just a quick thumb movement.
Harry Martin came up with an EZ way to install it on a Connie.
{his instructions are somewhere on the Forum}
Ride safe, Ted
Lots of differing throttle locks. {for your viewing pleasure}
https://www.bing.com/search?q=atlas%20throttle%20lock%20price&qs=n&form=QBRE&sp=-1&pq=atlas%20throttle%20lock%20price&sc=1-25&sk=&cvid=CE70CD71912B42D4AEE4843B6E0E884A
I have a Vista Cruise on my bike. Looks good, small/compact, and I like how quickly I can use it with just a quick thumb movement.
Harry Martin came up with an EZ way to install it on a Connie.
{his instructions are somewhere on the Forum}
Ride safe, Ted
Kzz1king said:
See product reviews... :great:
Patiently waiting for my ECU to come back from Steve. I totally forgot insurance when shipping it to him and apparently the package got damaged on the way there. He said the ECU survived tho. Phew!!
Arghh!!! :-\
Ride safe, Ted
Ride safe, Ted
I had a 25 inch cal sci on before this V Stream, moved the air nice but was like pushing a barn door. It’s was so wide it hit the mirrors. No back pressure with it but it moved a lot at speed. The V Stream is also 25 tall but much narrower. Still with its shape moves the air around you with little or no buffeting or back pressure. It does move around a little at speed when up high but any over tall shield is going to.
I have had V Streams on 4 or 5 BMWs and a FJR they were all better than any others I tried. They are also polycarbonate and won’t shatter on impact.
I have had V Streams on 4 or 5 BMWs and a FJR they were all better than any others I tried. They are also polycarbonate and won’t shatter on impact.
I unplugged and secured my O2 sensors for my MRP flash.
I rode her.
antibus said:
:-X
Zarticus said:
Let us know how that works. I've been trying to figure out a decent detector to buy and how to mount it that isn't in the way.
Kinda pulled the cover off my Sargent low cut. It is still attached between passenger and rider by a flap running down into the foam.
Momma hates the seat, and it slides me to the tank. Why the hell does Sargent put such a large storage compartment in their pan? I could feel it while riding when I would lean back. Guess I'm adding foam and not removing a bit as I had originally anticipated.
I've sent out my vmax seat (to a reputable vendor) to be modified for more comfort and was not happy at all with the finished product. Looked great, but still uncomfortable. So this time on this bike I am going to give it a go myself. It will be nice to mod, test, mod, test till I get something we are both satisfied with.
Momma hates the seat, and it slides me to the tank. Why the hell does Sargent put such a large storage compartment in their pan? I could feel it while riding when I would lean back. Guess I'm adding foam and not removing a bit as I had originally anticipated.
I've sent out my vmax seat (to a reputable vendor) to be modified for more comfort and was not happy at all with the finished product. Looked great, but still uncomfortable. So this time on this bike I am going to give it a go myself. It will be nice to mod, test, mod, test till I get something we are both satisfied with.
My new to me Russell Day Long seat is breaking in nicely.
It came with some instructions and in there it basically said " Don't freak out until you've got 3-500 mile on the seat So true
When I first got it I rode the 6 miles into town and thought Oh Sh*t I've got to send this back, it felt way off, really poor.
But now I've done 3, 75 mile out and backs, 220 loop and a 375 day ride and I've got to say that seat is awesome!
Before I'd have to stand up on the pegs every 15-20 minutes to give my A$$ a break. Now I can go 1.5 hrs.
Not cheap at 775 but all leather with the over 220 lbs option. Looks great.
I'm impressed.
That seat with my large Cee Bailey windscreen, AST barbacks, Grip puppies, Shoudabeen flash, new RS2 tires,
Valve adj, and throttle body sync and full tune up, throttle locker
is AWESOME.
So happy with the ride!!
Ride safe in 2020
Nick
Nick
It came with some instructions and in there it basically said " Don't freak out until you've got 3-500 mile on the seat So true
When I first got it I rode the 6 miles into town and thought Oh Sh*t I've got to send this back, it felt way off, really poor.
But now I've done 3, 75 mile out and backs, 220 loop and a 375 day ride and I've got to say that seat is awesome!
Before I'd have to stand up on the pegs every 15-20 minutes to give my A$$ a break. Now I can go 1.5 hrs.
Not cheap at 775 but all leather with the over 220 lbs option. Looks great.
I'm impressed.
That seat with my large Cee Bailey windscreen, AST barbacks, Grip puppies, Shoudabeen flash, new RS2 tires,
Valve adj, and throttle body sync and full tune up, throttle locker
is AWESOME.
So happy with the ride!!
Ride safe in 2020
Nick
Nick
Nick, do you ever ride 2up? Curious if the cee bailey provides better wind protection (over stock) for the passenger.Nickrides said:
Eric said:
My Escort MAX 360c is mounted to a RAM ball that replaces one of the brake and or clutch reservoir screws from AST. Detector is on the left and the GPS is on the right. I have the HARD device so I get LED alerts in my helmet when radar is detected. I slip a baggie over the unit when it rains. I tried to upload a pic but its too large and will not let me. I have a very recent pic (today) to send you if you want?
You can PM me or send me an email at gpd323@gmail.com. Started using radar detectors in the early 70's and have never been w/o one.
Greg D
Had my ECM reflashed by Steve back in Feb. Had a decel changed to a MRP. Installed stainless steel brake hoses on the front. First chance I`ve had to take it out for a ride day.I`m way up in northern Wis. and it has not be very good riding weather. The new hoses give a good 2 finger feel. I did not get on any good curvy roads to really test the engine braking of the flash. my next ride I will. But when I twisted the throttle as much as it would go at about 5 to 10 mph Wholly SH*T !!!! I now it was a good day for making hp, 54 to 57 degrees and low humidity, but wow! Steve you did an awesome job on that flash. I am super happy with that flash. Got a stainless hoses ordered for the rear, should be here in a few days. Oh and back to the flash seemed a little smoother getting back on throttle after decelerating and or shifting. Clutch less shifting very smooth but I guess that usually is anyway. Does anyone do a wide open throttle clutch less shift? ( let off throttle, shift,wide open throttle again) Seems like one less hand movement would be one less thing to concentrate on.
I now it was a good day for making hp, 54 to 57 degrees and low humidity, but wow! Steve you did an awesome job on that flash. I am super happy with that flash. Got a stainless hoses ordered for the rear, should be here in a few days. Oh and back to the flash seemed a little smoother getting back on throttle after decelerating and or shifting. Clutch less shifting very smooth but I guess that usually is anyway. Does anyone do a wide open throttle clutch less shift? ( let off throttle, shift,wide open throttle again) Seems like one less hand movement would be one less thing to concentrate on.
Installed a new battery. See http://forum.cog-online.org/concours-14-zg1400-general-chat-and-tech/16ah-series-battery-will-it-fit-a-c-14/msg694533/#msg694533
Lots of useful battery info in that thread.
Lots of useful battery info in that thread.
I received and installed the ECM today and went for a 2 hr or so ride. It's only 40ish degrees here and I have winter storage fuel with Stabil in it so I took it easy. Its only the 2nd time I've been out this year as weather and mass hysteria has been putting a damper on riding. I definitely noticed it to be smoother ride thru the RPM range, gobs more torque and i like the changes in engine braking! I filled up with premium and headed home as its getting chilly lol. I look forward to riding it with fresh gas and nicer weather in the future. Big shout out to Steve and Shoodaben Engineering for putting out a quality product!
Be safe all!
Be safe all!
Jethro
No I never ride 2 up so I don't know. But I would imagine it would help.
I got that tall windscreen because I have a occasional problem with my ears, I got lightning struck 4.5 years ago and it really fried my inner ears. I was completely deaf for 3 months. Luckily my hearing came back 30-40 %
But sometimes while riding something happens and even with good earplugs my hearing goes crazy and if I can get completely in a no wind bubble, even if I have to look through the windscreen which is no ones favorite, I can continue.
Do Not get struck by lightning!!
It WILL F you up..
No I never ride 2 up so I don't know. But I would imagine it would help.
I got that tall windscreen because I have a occasional problem with my ears, I got lightning struck 4.5 years ago and it really fried my inner ears. I was completely deaf for 3 months. Luckily my hearing came back 30-40 %
But sometimes while riding something happens and even with good earplugs my hearing goes crazy and if I can get completely in a no wind bubble, even if I have to look through the windscreen which is no ones favorite, I can continue.
Do Not get struck by lightning!!
It WILL F you up..
The Adaptiv Technologies TPX 2.0 Radar/Laser Detector Seems to work great, No false alarms & did warn me twice for actual speed traps. I mounted it to a Ram ball mount I have bolted to the dash on the right side of the Tach. I mounted the warning light under a custom gauge visor I made.
Attachments
...note to self....this.
I did ride the C14 to work for my one day in plant per 2 week period and it was predicted to be thunder-showery for the ride home. But no, only 30 mph cross winds! Took a 25 MPH corner at a mild 50-ish into the oncoming grill of a sheriffs SUV, saw is brake lights but then nothing, so I guess he wanted to stay socially distant. About a mile down the road way off toward the lake's edge in the brush about 3 or 4 LEO's were all lit up disco like...prolly some illegal fishing. (It's a WA thing right now.)
I finished installing the Rostra cruise control. It passes the self-checks.
I'm using a Centrodyne VSS pulse conditioner / divider set to /4 and Low Gain. Input signal is the output from the vehicle speed sensor.
Also installed a LED to display when the unit is "SET".
Now for the weather to warm up so I take it out on the road to verify operation and then fine tune the performance by using two dip switches ( Gain and Set Up Timer ).
Also balanced the throttle bodies. Cylinders 1-3 were matched and #4 was close, so I just needed to tweaked #4 to match - lucky.
I'm using a Centrodyne VSS pulse conditioner / divider set to /4 and Low Gain. Input signal is the output from the vehicle speed sensor.
Also installed a LED to display when the unit is "SET".
Now for the weather to warm up so I take it out on the road to verify operation and then fine tune the performance by using two dip switches ( Gain and Set Up Timer ).
Also balanced the throttle bodies. Cylinders 1-3 were matched and #4 was close, so I just needed to tweaked #4 to match - lucky.
Had to replace the radiator. Was riding with 3 buddies a couple weeks ago, all on similar bikes. I DID NOT have radiator guard, they all did. Yep, my luck or ?, a rock punctured radiator, beautiful green fluid pouring out under pressure. Sucked. Had to be towed. New C-14 radiator replacement about $900 bucks. Stupid expensive. Protective radiator guard about $100. Bottom line was that was an expensive lesson. Now back on the road with a new radiator, a new radiator guard and even a new acrylic head light protective guard too - I think those headlights are about $550 to replace. Did I mention the most important part, "back on the road again."
Ed said:Had to replace the radiator. Was riding with 3 buddies a couple weeks ago, all on similar bikes. I DID NOT have radiator guard, they all did. Yep, my luck or ?, a rock punctured radiator, beautiful green fluid pouring out under pressure. Sucked. Had to be towed. New C-14 radiator replacement about $900 bucks. Stupid expensive. Protective radiator guard about $100. Bottom line was that was an expensive lesson. Now back on the road with a new radiator, a new radiator guard and even a new acrylic head light protective guard too - I think those headlights are about $550 to replace. Did I mention the most important part, "back on the road again."
Wished you would have asked around first. I had a rock or something puncture mine a couple of years ago. I pulled radiator and took it took a shop where they repaired the small hole by welding it; good as new for $30, then I added a radiator guard. Unless you really wanted a new radiator, we could have saved you $$$
I just wanted to suggest, for anyone this happens to, that Mylers Radiator in Utah does excellent radiator repair work for usually around 80-100 bucks. I have sent them some seriously jacked up dirt bike rads and they are returned straightened, leaks soldered up and refinished like new. Ive never sent them a street bike radiator but $100 vs $900 might be worth a call to see what they say.